Newby wants any advice available!

[kickinside]

I have a little project on the go - remodeling the bathroom, i have done some tilling before (kitchen/utility) but this is whole different game....

Bathroom is 1951 build, brick built walls with a mixture of existing surfaces. Mostly 1/2 3/4 inch of original plaster over painted with god alone know what (certainly emulsion figures in there and probably an eggshell too) - plaster is sound as is the paint. Some areas are back to bare brick where hacked out the existing tiles round the bath (they were on a mortar bed that came with them), also some areas of bare brick where walls (airing cupboard) have been removed (were at 90 degrees to existing walls). plaster is alleged to be renovating (?) plaster as this was the 'show house' and they did a 'good job' (living in the house i might argue that point but there you go!)

The walls are to be tilled floor to ceiling (i am intending to fit skirting at he bottom and commence the tilling at circa 75mm above floor level and finish in trim strips circa the same under ceiling level (ceiling inst exactly totally level!)

Shower will be a free standing shower cabin so no problem with tiles being sprayed with water etc.

Tiles are 400*400 9mm porcelain (chosen by she who must be obeyed!), 3mm gaps have been decreed (she thinks the 4mm in the kitchen were too big)

Area to be tiled is approx 17 m2 - mainly straight runs as the toilet will be in a cabinet, the sink is counter top etc...

I have a wet cutter (gantry type overhead unit with water pump) already tried the standard blade on the tiles and its ...well not good, quite a bit of edge chipping from the back edge of the blade, so i have a specialist blade...not worried on the cutting side etc its more the prep/adhesive side!

Specific Questions:-

1. Recommended preparation of the bare brick to bring it level with remaining plaster (plaster, cement render etc)

2. Recommended preparation of plaster (sand paint for key?, remove plaster??)

3. Recommended adhesives/grout (i know i have to use a cement modified adhesive..or i think i know this!)

4. Anything else anyone can think of (im an IT nerd by trade not a tiler!)


many thanks in advance!

 

[DHTiling]

Nice post......

Right....

Hack the last painted plaster off......

Then Dot and Dab the walls with 12.5mm plaster board....any wet area's ( shower etc) water proof them with a tanking membrane ( will post video on that soon) and tile straight onto tthe plaster board etc with no skimming.....

Adhesive wise....

The Mapei P9 is top notch for porcelain and Mapei ultra colour plus grout with water drop effect and in over 20 colours will be great as well...

 

[DHTiling]

How to tank walls with membranes...


[yt]pigKorqimGk[/yt]

 

[DHTiling]

Cement based adhesive with good initial adhesion strength and no vertical slip for ceramic tiles.
Applications:
Interior and exterior bonding of ceramic tiles and mosaics of every type on floors, walls and ceilings on conventional substrates (cement renders and screeds, underfloor heating installations, brick walls, blocks walls, gypsum boards).
Also suitable for tile on tile with medium-size tiles (up to 900 cm2) and spot-bonding of insulating materials such as expanded polystyrene, expanded polyurethane, rock and glass wool, Eraclit® (wood-cement panels), sound-deadening panels, etc.
Installation over gypsum based or anhydrite based surfaces is possible after having first applied Primer G,

Fast setting and drying, high performance, anti-efflorescence grout, polymer modified, for joints from 2 to 20 mm. Water-repellent with DropEffect® and antimold with BioBlock® technology.
Applications:
Interior and exterior floor and wall grouting of all types of ceramic tiles (double-fired, single-fired, klinker, porcelain tiles, etc.), terracotta, stone material (natural stone, marble, granite, agglomerates, etc.), glass and marble mosaics. Ensures complete uniformity of colour, does not produce surface efflorescence, dries quickly and therefore floor and wall coverings are ready for use quickly.
BioBlock® technology applied to this product blocks various types of mould from forming and proliferating on the surface of the grout in humid conditions. Also, the use of special hydrophobic additives (DropEffect® technology) gives grouting mortars high water-repellent properties, making them less prone to dirtiness and with excellent durability.
Ideal for grouting exterior façades, balconies, terraces, swimming pools, bathrooms and kitchens. Especially suitable for grouting floors of supermarkets, highway service stations, restaurants, airports and public service grounds.

 

[kickinside]

ok i suspected that would be the answer....only problem is its not really the 'last' of the plaster (its more like 'most' of the plaster.....also the room is quite small and i am fighting for inches in some places....

i didn't mention the tiles are 31kg a box (10 tiles) so approx 20kg per m2....plus gack!

If its required its required so be it, If i can 'get away with it' that would be preferable...the walls are at least flat - opinions?

 

[DHTiling]

You will need to remove the paint.......back to bare wall...But plaster board will support more weight and if you are trying to gain room then the board dabbed might just be less thickness than your render and skim coat..

worth a thought....but deffo get the paint off..

 

[kickinside]

Well i guess it comes down to if its easier to remove the paint....or the plaster!, if its the plaster i will have to get a shufty on as our local tip stops accepting plaster on the 1st april as apparently from then its considered 'hazardous waste'

So they told me as i took the trailer with airing cupboard walls down last weekend!

I think I will definitely loose space boarding, the existing plaster is mostly under 1/2" judging by what I can see where the cupboard walls have come out/tile off/tank bearers etc, in many places i could say < 1/4"!

Still if thats the way to go....so be it i guess (don't much like removing paint either too boring for my liking!)

 

[CJ CERAMICS]

you are best to take back to brick and plasterboard all walls as dave says
this way you can ensure that all the walls are flat and true to give you the best surface poss to tile on to.......nothing worse than tiling on to a (smooth) plaster wall only to find a hump you previously missed usually near the top....porcelain aint cheap and remember she who must be obeyed wont be happy with ya if they aint level. as for adhesive personaly prefer bal products but only cos i cant find mapei in my area.
good luck and keep us posted

 

[Dan]

I have a little project on the go - remodeling the bathroom, i have done some tilling before (kitchen/utility) but this is whole different game....

Bathroom is 1951 build, brick built walls with a mixture of existing surfaces. Mostly 1/2 3/4 inch of original plaster over painted with god alone know what (certainly emulsion figures in there and probably an eggshell too) - plaster is sound as is the paint. Some areas are back to bare brick where hacked out the existing tiles round the bath (they were on a mortar bed that came with them), also some areas of bare brick where walls (airing cupboard) have been removed (were at 90 degrees to existing walls). plaster is alleged to be renovating (?) plaster as this was the 'show house' and they did a 'good job' (living in the house i might argue that point but there you go!)

The walls are to be tilled floor to ceiling (i am intending to fit skirting at he bottom and commence the tilling at circa 75mm above floor level and finish in trim strips circa the same under ceiling level (ceiling inst exactly totally level!)

Shower will be a free standing shower cabin so no problem with tiles being sprayed with water etc.

Tiles are 400*400 9mm porcelain (chosen by she who must be obeyed!), 3mm gaps have been decreed (she thinks the 4mm in the kitchen were too big)

Area to be tiled is approx 17 m2 - mainly straight runs as the toilet will be in a cabinet, the sink is counter top etc...

I have a wet cutter (gantry type overhead unit with water pump) already tried the standard blade on the tiles and its ...well not good, quite a bit of edge chipping from the back edge of the blade, so i have a specialist blade...not worried on the cutting side etc its more the prep/adhesive side!

Specific Questions:-

1. Recommended preparation of the bare brick to bring it level with remaining plaster (plaster, cement render etc)

2. Recommended preparation of plaster (sand paint for key?, remove plaster??)

3. Recommended adhesives/grout (i know i have to use a cement modified adhesive..or i think i know this!)

4. Anything else anyone can think of (im an IT nerd by trade not a tiler!)


many thanks in advance!

Sounds like a big job. Why don't you get a professional in to take a look at it? No offence intended. Sort of just personal market research.

 

[kickinside]

Thanks for all the responses guys - i am going to take your advice and strip to brick and plasterboard.

As to why not get a pro in, well several answers really. Firstly i actually enjoy doing the work myself and the satisfaction of a good job well done. Secondly i can do it area at a time leaving the rest of the room functional, then do another area... ( e.g. two walls where the shower will go leaving bath and sink on other wall functional, then once the shower is in rip the bath and sink out - thus keeping family happy!)

I work with my head all day, like to work with my hands at other times...every year i do something ot learn a new skill - plus i probably down played the kitchen a bit its the same size room with 3 doorways and i tilled that floor to ceiling but admittedly with smaller tiles (about 9"*6") a couple of years ago (hence the wet saw).

My brother in law also used to be cabinet maker and kitchen fitter (and builder by part time inclination) so i do have some experience to call on too!

its just my thing i like doing jobs myself and doing them right!