Outline of my job - comments welcome

[jgw1]

Yup the whole lot is coming out and the new bathroom fitted ontop of everything - so height is a bit of issue there so the pan fittings go together OK.

The chipboard itself is in good nick but the joists are ~450mm apart so things creak and there is a bit of movement.

How do you deal with the residual vinyl tile glue if I use Hardi. And can I use Fastflex - people here have said it is difficult to work with and I'm a novice.

I am going towards taking up the vinyl, screwing 12mm marine ply, then tiling onto this. Not sure what addy to use if I do this.

 

[MICK the Tiler]

Now I know what we are dealing with, here's what I would do.

Lift vinyl tiles
check the chipboard floor if it is at all crumbly or breaking down in any way it too must be removed and new 18mm plywood floor laid, sheeted with 6mm hardie backer, then lay the slate over this.

The reason the vinyl tile adhesive is a problem is that when you spread your glue to lay the slate it re-wets the vinyl adhesive then when all is dry the vinyl adhesive will crystalize under your slate adhesive causing a bond break and floor failure.

The reason I specify hardie backer on top of the plywood is this is a masonary product so is the slate so you have a masonary on masonary bond different movement stresses are avoided and would be a sound decision in rectifying the problem with the floor prep.

Even if the chipboard is sound I'd still be concerned with using it for a substrate for a stone product I would be inclined to remove it.

Others may have different ideas on this.

 

[grumpygrouter]

Yup the whole lot is coming out and the new bathroom fitted ontop of everything - so height is a bit of issue there so the pan fittings go together OK.

The chipboard itself is in good nick but the joists are ~450mm apart so things creak and there is a bit of movement.

How do you deal with the residual vinyl tile glue if I use Hardi. And can I use Fastflex - people here have said it is difficult to work with and I'm a novice.

I am going towards taking up the vinyl, screwing 12mm marine ply, then tiling onto this. Not sure what addy to use if I do this.

As the floor is only 3m2 and you look like you are using 12mm ply (wpb is fine by the way, Marine is very expensive) there will almost certainly be no movement in the floor. I would still go for Ardex-flex 7001 as an adhesive, nut you may get away with A Single Part Flexible as these are a bit easier to use. Bear in mind a standard setting adhesive will take around 16hr before it is set and solid enough to grout. The rapid setting stuff can go off a bit quick in the bucket for a novice. Fastflex will go off in less than 1/2 hour (though BAL reckon 45mins) The ardex stuff goes off quick too but I find it less messy to work with.

 

[jgw1]

Afternoon!

I thought that with the help I got here I should continue with more on the job.

At this stage it is more of a plumbing job but bear with me there WILL be tiling.

Here's what I am starting with...





Nice huh!

So my mate came round and we took out the sink..



And ripped out the wall, (dot and dabbed plasterboard) 25 years old and shot:



The plumbing ain't look to good either:





So we battoned out the wall



Added some sound insulation



And started boarding it with Hardibacker (note the soil pipe sound insulation and plastic membrane)



Sadly it had to stop there for the weekend... back to the day job...

Now two questions...

Should I tank my Hardibacker, I know that it will improve the waterproofing of the bath/shower, but can I use BAL adhesives ontop of the tanking paint?

Secondly Ardex 7001 has been recommended for the floor, over 12mm wbp plywood, is there a BAL equivalent? I have access to BAL at Topps but don't know of an Ardex supplier in Wimbledon.

All help much appreciated, more pics to follow - but only at weekends