Over boarding?

[Russell brown]

I've got a kitchen floor to tile with a porcelain tile. The floor at the minute is t&g chipboard which I'm planning on over boarding. The two questions I have is would you use ply or hardibacker board as I've never used it but as height is an issue would 6mm be good enough? As there's no deflection. Also normally I only overboard bathrooms and as I have normally taken the flooring up to re route pipes I don't charge them to overboard the flooring. What do people carge per metre? I've got just under 30m2 to do.

Russ

 

[Old Mod]

Yeah 6mm Hardi for over boarding is fine.
Not allowed to discuss pricing in an open forum, but I charge my hourly rate plus mats, if that's any use to you Russ.

 

[Russell brown]

I usually use ply, never used hardibacker before, is the cost around the same and is it fixed the same?

 

[Stef]

I try not to tile to ply now, not a good surface to tile to & has had it's day, Hardie or thermal board all day long now.
Most of the ply isn't wbp & delaminates far too easily.

 

[Russell brown]

I try not to tile to ply now, not a good surface to tile to & has had it's day, Hardie or thermal board all day long now.
Most of the ply isn't wbp & delaminates far too easily.

I only use far eastern as I find wbp is crap and delaminates as you say.

 

[Old Mod]

Fixing Hardi isn't difficult. Stick it down with a single part adhesive, Hardi say non flex, most of us use flexi tho. Then screw down in pre marked spaces on the board. Just stagger your joints. I find it best to pre drill and countersink first.

 

[Stef]

Fixing Hardi isn't difficult. Stick it down with a single part adhesive, Hardi say non flex, most of us use flexi tho. Then screw down in pre marked spaces on the board. Just stagger your joints. I find it best to pre drill and countersink first.

What screws you using?
I've never pre drilled Hardie, I use turbo golds or reisser cutter & they drive in fine.

 

[Old Mod]

Usually turbos Stef, I just get irritated if they don't countersink properly or they crush the edges. :smilewinkgrin:

 

[Stef]

Usually turbos Stef, I just get irritated if they don't countersink properly or they crush the edges. :smilewinkgrin:

Do you use a drill /driver or an impact driver?
I use my impact & can sometimes drive the screw too far & go through the board.

 

[Old Mod]

Do you use a drill /driver or an impact driver?
I use my impact & can sometimes drive the screw too far & go through the board.

Haha same same! Yeah impact usually.
I think it's safe to say you don't NEED to pre drill, but certainly if I have a labourer he does the pre drilling haha

 

[Stef]

Haha, can't have the Labrador standing about doing nothing..

 

[Old Mod]

Nope!

 

[thickbed]

I used some 25mm self drilling screws with hardi worked very very well

 

[ttt tiling]

Ditra Mat , that's what it was invented for

 

[White Room]

With the Turbo screws I just tap them in lightly with a hammer and then screw...

 

[p4ulo]

I use hardibacker, black drywall screws (usually 25mm) and I make a countersink "hole" with the end of a HSS 10mm drill bit, only needs about 3 turns as when it bites it shreds through quick. Nice clean finish then. Agreed, no need to pre-drill all the way through, and the Hardibacker screws you can get a rubbish (IIRC they snap)

 

[RDTiling]

I usually use ply, never used hardibacker before, is the cost around the same and is it fixed the same?

Hardie wlll cost you more to buy than the ply wood, but it is a far superior product to plywood.

With the issues you have in the height department, Hardie will solve that too.

It is fitted i line with how others have said, or you could look at fitting DItra over the chipboard, however that again would push up the costs.

 

[Russell brown]

Think I'm going to go with ply. I've not seen hardi backer done, until then I'll go with what I know and just screw a 4" centres. I'm not saying ply is better Im just not sure I'll do hardi backer right until I've seen someone do it.

 

[widler]

Russell ,if you can ply you can hardie, it's easier and better

 

[Stef]

Russell ,if you can ply you can hardie, it's easier and better

Definitely, it's probably one of those jobs that are easier than they look.
I mix my adhesive up wetter than normal & lay board then walk over it & screw it down tight.
I'm dreading the repeat customer phone call that's been laid on Hardie, to go back & rip up floor as they don't like the tiles now.
Those floors ain't budging.

 

[Russell brown]

But you only fix hardi around the edges?, what centres?.

 

[widler]

Hardie has pre marked holes Russell, edges and middle,it's just like plasterboard a ceiling in 4x3s ,same amount of screws and staggerd the same,, I just use a no more ply knife to cut straight and a grinder for awkward cuts , outside obviously [emoji15]

 

[Stef]

But you only fix hardi around the edges?, what centres?.

Roughly 35 screws for a sheet of Hardie, fixed on 200/300 centres.

 

[Russell brown]

What's the price of hardi?. PM if you like.


Russ ( Russell sounds like I'm getting told off )

 

[RDTiling]

Think I'm going to go with ply. I've not seen hardi backer done, until then I'll go with what I know and just screw a 4" centres. I'm not saying ply is better Im just not sure I'll do hardi backer right until I've seen someone do it.

Once you have laid the boards and taped the joints, it should look something like this.