Pictures of a mud bed for a small bathroom floor

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I hear what your saying ....but when the mud is alot wetter there really is no need to compact it, Also my screed is cement dense at 3:1 . my technique and I suspect Gooners are more like what concreter,s do every day.


Regards
Trev

Hi Gooner, One thing that I wish to avoid here on a forum that is based in another country from my own is to state something and have it come across as "our way is the best way". So don't take this as anything other than my observations and work methods that are based on the way I was taught to do the work. BTW, Our TCNA (Tile Council of North America) is similar to the British Standards that I read being referenced here.

The TCNA has a world-class laboratory facilty in South Carolina, and one of the many tile and stone related methods and products that they have extensively studied and analyzed are the various methods of doing mud beds. The CV here is that the use of screed rails is superior because the installer can better compact the mud and strike it off, yielding a mud bed that is denser and stronger than the mud beds that are looser, less densely packed, and what we call "fluffier" -that are the result of floating the mud without rails. Many guys tell me that their way is good enough, but I have sat through many a class down at the TCNA and seen the lab results re: more densely compacted mud beds.

I'm not sure for myself because I have only done it the one way and I have never had any failures, but for all I know I might not have had problems doing it the other way, either. As it turns out, sending one of the men out on the floor with walkboards, to fill in the float strips, only takes at most 10 minutes or so for a floor of this size, so it really isn't a big labor issue for me.


I agree with you that using the rails would help a DIY'er with this, although at this point in my career I have done acres of this mud work and don't feel like a beginner anymore. 😀
 
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I just remembered about this thread...I was at this job last week to measure for some more work, and snapped a few pics with my phone.

Someone earlier in the thread was wondering how the tub was going to fit into the design. The customer wanted a 'drop in" style tub used and we needed to do a bit of planning to get it all to work out.

My buddy Terry set all the tile. He had done other work in the house and when the owners asked for a full bath remodel we decided to work together on it because he stays strictly with setting tile and we handled the whole GC package for him (demo, framing, sub trades, plaster, painting, the built in cabinet, trims, hardware, and all prep for tile). He and I do a few joint projects a year and we work well together.

This tile was hand made from Pratt and Larson (based in Oregon). Terry installed Schluter Kerdi in all the wet areas and on the backsplash. The window got trimmed in tile which is really a rare thing for our area. I made extension jambs for the window and Terry ran to tile so that it just barely overlapped the edge of the jamb and thus was supported mostly on the wall.

Rob (Colour Republic) asked me once what the deal is with toilets here in the US...here is a good pic that shows how they are different from the ones used in the UK. The flange is typically roughed in 12" off of the finished wall.
 

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Nice job there Rob.. cool feature on the shower back wall..:thumbsup:


I know this is an old thread, but it brought back memories. We used to fix that way, semi-dry screed. Still do when I have to, Rob Z pmed me today, and we discussed this method. Maybe he read Daves reply.:thumbsup:
 

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