Discuss Plastered Walls 20kg/sq.m in the UK Tiling Forum area at TilersForums.com.

G

grumpygrouter

Removing the whole of the plaster and plaster boarding is definately unnecessary. Has anyone had to remove the skim before? Is it relatively easy, presume I would just knife around the area then remove it from the middle.

Thanks

Chris
Not sure why you think it is unnecessary. You are exceeding the accepted weight limits if you put those tiles on that substrate. Tearing down plasterboard walls takes about 5 minutes and reboarding doesn't take that much longer on the areas you quote. Better to be safe and tile on unskimmed board than risk the possibility of the tiles pulling the wall down on someone. But, as we can't see what you can see we can only advise from a distance.
 
C

chr15athome

Have just spoken to the client, they have decided on 6mm plasterboard to overboard the walls as they are wanting to keep the cost down to a minimum. I have told them that the backerboard is better but they just don't want to spend the extra.
I don't know whether or not to bother with this job for the small amount of money in it.

Chris
 
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fill in the forms in the arms for tile giant trade discount mate

andy
 
P

peckers

Just bare in mind....even tho the customer wants the job doing as cheaply as possible, you are the pro, you are the one with the knowledge of products practice and procedure.... if they don't follow your advice and it fails in the future...it will 'still' be down to you....:thumbsup:
Here Here, I totally agree with this too many customers try to tell us how to do our job because they want to save a penny or two! you can give them different options on ways to do things as long as it is using the right materials and done the right way!!
IT IS YOUR REPUTATION IF IT GOES WROUNG and bad news travels faster then good. :thumbsup:
 
P

Phil22

Hi, it's a shame it was skimmed in the first instance as plastered wall has a weight limit of 20kg/m2 but the plasterboard itself has a weight limit of 32kg/m2, so it would have been stronger without the skim.

If you are just using plasterboard then it should really be tanked out to prevent moisture getting to the plasterboard and failing.

I would prefer either tanking it or using a backerboard rather than the plasterboard in the first place as the money that has already been spent on plasterboard, plaster and labour skimming it could have been put towards the backerboard or a tanking system.

Nomorenails and hardibacker are just two backerboards at the lower price end of the market that do a 6mm board, but as they are meant for flooring at this thickness they would have to be put against something to stop them flexing and cracking the joints or the tile itself as time passes.
There is a thicker hardibackerboard at 12mm that is meant for walls and would have been better used than the plasterboard and should be used if you are thinking of taking down the existing plasterboard and replacing.

I would also check the manufacturers instructions as I think most backerboards are water resistant rather than waterproof, meaning they are resistant to water so wont degrade and fail from contact with it but moisture can/does pass through some of them to what ever is at the other side. I spoke with customer services a few months back at Knauf re aquapanel and they advised this is why they recommend stud behind their boards, so if or when moisture passes through them it has an air gap to dissipate naturally.

The tanking system waterproofs the area to be tiled and I think one of the cheaper ones widely available to anyone is the Dunlop Shower Waterproofing Kit from Screwfix at £43.00, but you might get a similar/better trade deal on a bal, weber etc. kit from your local trade supplier, as their kit may contain more product for the money, which if left over can be put toward your next job, saving a bit in the long run.

If you are going by industry standard for the weight of tile on the wall it may also be worth noting that it’s recommended that new plaster is left a minimum of 4 weeks before tiling commences.

It’s ok if the client wants to keep their costs down, but it will be you who is the first port of call if it fails, wanting money back or the job putting right. The adhesive/tanking/backerboard manufacturer may back you if their product has failed, but not if you haven’t followed industry standard or manufacturers guidelines.

Sorry I’ve written a lot, of which you may already know or may not even agree with but hopefully some info may help.
Cheers
 

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