Please help with Rubi Bridge Saw DW200N

[mache]

Hi All , could really do with some help on the above bridge saw. This was a second hand purchase and the machine is all in good nick, unfortunately I am now coming to use it and I am having problems with the blade running off when on a cut.
I can run the carriage full length of the slide way against a straight edge with no problem, put a laser on the blade and it doesn't run out on the whole run. Put a cut on the blade and after 150 to 200 mm of run then the blade starts to run off to the right by a noticable amount. It's actually a slight curve that is developing. To give you an idea how much, the blade actually came into contact with the steel frame running down the centre. I have to put a lot of pressure on the bridge and carriage to make this happen without a tile in place, so I am happy that it's not an issue with loose play in the set up.

I am cutting 10mm thick porcelain, I've not changed the blade and don't know how to gauge if a blade is worn out or not.
Could it be the blade do you think.

Any suggestions appreciated

Thanks Martin.

 

[mma]

Blade would be my first thought.

 

[Chalker]

Looks like you have a worn out or poor quality blade.

is the water cooling working ok?

 

[White Room]

Been a few post on this subject http://www.tilersforums.com/28-tiling-tools/27667-rubi-wet-saw-not-cutting-straight.html

 

[radim]

had the same problem. new blade will sort it out.

 

[Chalker]

Order one from here, quick delivery, good quality and cheap!
http://www.atsdiamondtools.co.uk/

 

[mache]

Hi All, thanks for the input. I can confirm that the water cooling is running fine plenty of flow with that.
I've have just been out and checked to see of possibly the motor head axis was running out in relation to the carriage way, but clamping a 600mm straight edge to the blade and running the full length shows only about 12 thou' run out (thats 0.3mm for the young ones) and I don't think thats bad for an aluminium carriage and nylon rollers.

Will go for new blade as suggested. Any recommendations on type of blade, I'm guessing that the porcelain continuous rimsound like a likely candidate

Checked out that other thread... sounds worrying but I'll not get disheartened on my purchase until I've proved it's not the blade

 

[Chalker]

Continuous rim blade, I think yours is a 200mm blade, but not sure on centre size. If you ring Allan at ats he will tell you what size centre for your machine.

 

[Concrete guy]

200mm x 25.4mm will fit this machine. Continuous rim is the way to go on these machines I'm not sure the spindle fitting allows a thick blade (reinforced turbo flange blade) to be fitted.

I used to run one one of these when I was tiling years ago (the similar version back then) and it used to suffer a similar problem of running out of true.

After a while I figured out out it was sensitive to the amount of pressure applied to it during cutting.

As the blade is on one side of the motor, if too much pressure is applied the axle on which the blade runs flexes by a tiny amount, half a degree or so, but it's enough to set it off running slightly out.

A new blade disguises this slightly as the improved cutting speed overcomes some of the resistance and reduces the run out. Ultimately you have to cut a little slower to overcome the design flaw. A new blade does help though.

 

[mache]

ATS thanks for the input, sounds like a new blade will help over come the big run out issue but that I might still get some runout, although if it was cutting pressure related on the spindle I would have expected the blade to deflect left rather than right. However reallity often isn't always like that.
Just took the old blade out and sure enough it's marked up as a Rubi general purpose.... silly me I should have checked before I started.


I have no idea how long a blade is expected to last in hard porcelain. I'm guessing i've got about 70 cuts to make at the full 600 mm tile length and then corner cutting etc at 300mm width that's about another 100 off. I'm wondering if I should go for 2 blades ??? hopefully you won't suggest more but if it's recommended then I'll go for it.
Thanks again , Martin.

200mm x 25.4mm will fit this machine. Continuous rim is the way to go on these machines I'm not sure the spindle fitting allows a thick blade (reinforced turbo flange blade) to be fitted.

I used to run one one of these when I was tiling years ago (the similar version back then) and it used to suffer a similar problem of running out of true.

After a while I figured out out it was sensitive to the amount of pressure applied to it during cutting.

As the blade is on one side of the motor, if too much pressure is applied the axle on which the blade runs flexes by a tiny amount, half a degree or so, but it's enough to set it off running slightly out.

A new blade disguises this slightly as the improved cutting speed overcomes some of the resistance and reduces the run out. Ultimately you have to cut a little slower to overcome the design flaw. A new blade does help though.

 

[Concrete guy]

ATS thanks for the input, sounds like a new blade will help over come the big run out issue but that I might still get some runout, although if it was cutting pressure related on the spindle I would have expected the blade to deflect left rather than right. However reallity often isn't always like that.
Just took the old blade out and sure enough it's marked up as a Rubi general purpose.... silly me I should have checked before I started.


I have no idea how long a blade is expected to last in hard porcelain. I'm guessing i've got about 70 cuts to make at the full 600 mm tile length and then corner cutting etc at 300mm width that's about another 100 off. I'm wondering if I should go for 2 blades ??? hopefully you won't suggest more but if it's recommended then I'll go for it.
Thanks again , Martin.

Running out right against the pressure is odd. That's a little counter intuitive. Is there any carriage adjustment on these newer models?

These blades are pretty long lasting on water fed cutters, one should be fine.

 

[mache]

Tell me about it, I checked all sorts trying to figure it out. Carriage alignment, carriage twist, free play, leveled up fully and nothing I could find to be out enough through it off to the extent it was drifting.

Anyway, just placed order on your website so will look forward to receiving blade. Many thanks for your input and I will be sure to let you know how I get on.

Best Regards

Martin.

Running out right against the pressure is odd. That's a little counter intuitive. Is there any carriage adjustment on these newer models?

These blades are pretty long lasting on water fed cutters, one should be fine.

 

[Rookery]

........I'm guessing i've got about 70 cuts to make at the full 600 mm tile length and then corner cutting etc at 300mm width that's about another 100 off.......

Sorry to ask the obvious but wouldn't it be quicker to use a dry rail cutter?

 

[One Day]

Sorry to ask the obvious but wouldn't it be quicker to use a dry rail cutter?

He probably doesn't have a Sigma though ;-)

 

[mache]

Hi Rookery, no problem asking and I had considered a dry rail cutter, but had also read that some of these struggle with the porcelain tiles. At around the same time I came across a thread where a member had a rail cutter for sale, and thought OK it's a bit of an expensive investment, not as quick as dry cutting, but thought well I might be able to sell it on after my own, and my step daughters bathroom projects are finished, so decided to take that step. Cutting time is not so much of an issue as it's just my own work and not a paying client.

Two hours into trying to figure out the problem I was having and I was thinking...why didn't I just go for normal score and snap !!!

Will post how I get on when the new blade arrives. If it still causing problems then I guess I'll be getting into the Rubi/Sigma which is best debates :8:

Sorry to ask the obvious but wouldn't it be quicker to use a dry rail cutter?