Discuss Plywood floors... in the British & UK Tiling Forum area at TilersForums.com.

3
573
surrey
as for tiling on timber , most timber that are used are crap , years ago i would tile to marine ply 3/4 seal with neoprime primer and then tile using s16 and ardion 90 admix great products and i have still got customers that have floors down for 20 years and never had a problem , but then it was fixed at 6inch centres and solid as a rock, neoprime primer was bad banned as it made you as high as a kite and very flammable but i loved it , the adrex s16 and adrion 90 you can still buy what a great product but its just so expensive shame
 
3
573
surrey
and yes the worst product to install on is chip-board the green aint no better and most of the timber thats used today has many different glues that just dont stand up to the job , its all about cost now and to flood market with it , and the amouunt of time i hear 6mm ply thats alright NO IT AINT it will delamate CRAP CRAP CRAP
 
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The Legend; Phil Hobson RIP

as for tiling on timber , most timber that are used are crap , years ago i would tile to marine ply 3/4 seal with neoprime primer and then tile using s16 and ardion 90 admix great products and i have still got customers that have floors down for 20 years and never had a problem , but then it was fixed at 6inch centres and solid as a rock, neoprime primer was bad banned as it made you as high as a kite and very flammable but i loved it , the adrex s16 and adrion 90 you can still buy what a great product but its just so expensive shame


Amen to that Bro. things don't always change for the best, Neoprene, S16, and Ardion 90 . Now we are talking good stuff, also the high from the Neoprene was OK.:crazy::thumbsup:
 
S

Spud

Thanks for posting this thread Rich ,It really concerns me reading guidelines about tiling on wooden surfaces bottom line there is no guaranteed fixing method and even if you use backerboards you can still get failures unless you are sure on how the floor is constructed and what load the floor is to be put under then every tile installation on a wooden substrate must be very carefully considered and there is not a one method for all solution ,hardibacker is not impervious to water it is just stable and doesnt break down when wet and i would not use it in a wetroom floor unless it was tanked with sheet membrane ,
 
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R

Rob Z

Good one, Rich.

Two-layer plywood floors are very, very common here. There some high-qualtiy thinsets on our market that have been designed especially for setting tile directly to plywood. I know some guys that do this all the time, and they do a good job and are good tile setters.

With that said, I think all the attention to detail that is needed to make a tile-over-ply installation work exceeds what would be needed to install a membrane over ply.

It's too much of a crap shoot for me, and I prefer to sell the job with a membrane or a mud bed. So far, and still crossing my fingers, I've been able to sell the jobs the proper way and avoid doing more than just a few tile on ply jobs in the past 21 years.
 
R

Rich

Thank you everybody. I agree with you all.

Gary i agree totally, every installation needs to be looked at from every different angle and the right process chosen, there is no such thing as a fail proof method. Thanks for that, i understood that hardie and NMP are impervious to water, goes to show that there is always things to learn :thumbsup:

Mike, if a floor has deflection, it is going to fail whatever you lay on top of it unless it is sorted. 6mm cement board is not suitable for laying onto joists, I meant that if you wanted to over board floorboards or chipboard, min 18mm ply and 6mm cement boards. Sorry, I am not very good at wording some of this :oops: If a floor has movement in it, I do the same, screw the ply down as much as possible to get rid of any deflection and then over board with cement boards, I think that this gives you about as good substrate to tile onto you could hope for.

Marbleman, Iv never used any of those products but Im willing to have a go :lol:
You are 100% right, chipboard is NOT a suitable substrate to tile on, green or otherwise IMO. Thats an entire post in itself.
 
3
573
surrey
rich -honestly neoprene was good gear, and marine ply them days was the gear expensive but it worked , most timber that are installed are cheap crap so builders can save a few quid and advice customers that it will be alright nah never is , cement boards are only any good if substrate is sound , and installed correctly,
As for S16 ardex and ardion 90 is expensive for a reason - its good but at trade its still £45.00 per unit bag and bottle + vat which puts it out of use for most . use it still on top end clients but like everybody contractors and builders will never pay for it,

Cost cost cost thats what its all about today --shame but its life
 
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Rich

99% of the problems we come across is down to that IMO, cost. I personally dont tile straight on to ply of the reasons in the first post and also, as you say, nobody is willing to pay the price to have it done properly. The builders I work for (although I like to think that they work for me :smilewinkgrin:) get the floors deflection free and sound so that I can come in and over board before tiling, this has taken years of holding up their projects refusing to tile onto a floor that Im not happy with. Iv lost count how many times Iv walked on to a job and found that the floor has been over boarded with left over ply from the rest of the build :mad2:.

On a good note tho, now all my builders get the floor up together before I go in, like I said this has taken years of work on my part, thinking that they have decided that it is easier just to shut me up and let me do it how I want to but they all say the same thing now "I want it done properly". It prob helps that they have had no call backs regarding the tiling.
 

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