polished Porcelain tiles 60cm x 6ocm

[breadwinner]

Hi guys

I am new to the forum and a DIY enthusiast rather than a tradesman. I have some 60cm x 60cm white polished Porcelain tiles made in China by Monet/Cotto cost approx £50 per sqm. I was advised that these tiles do not need sealing by the tile company I bought them from but having reviewed some of the posting on the tile forum I'm wondering whether to seal would still be worthwhile? If I did seal with something like LTP could it damage the tile in any way and should I seal the whole tile or just the glazed surface?

Also could anyone recommend whether it be beneficial to prime a concrete floor or add any latex to the Mapei cement based adhesives Keraquick that I'm using in order to make it more flexible and deal with any unevenness and increase bonding?

The floor had vinyl tiles down and I'm still scrapping the glue off (very slowly).

Finally, would a vitrex versatile power 500 wet saw purchased from B+Q cope with these kinds of tiles?

Any advice much appreciated.

 

[Dan]

Sounds like your cutter will do the job. I'll let the professionals answer the rest though just in case I get it wrong. Thanks for registering.

 

[DHTiling]

Hello.....

Quite a few porcelains are pr-sealed now, so if they say they are sealed then no need to seal again...

As for the adhesive..Keraquick is fine as it is with no additive on concrete..it s an S1 adhesive and will cope just fine if the floor is flat...if not SLC it first , as you will need a nice flat floor for that format of tile...

 

[Alpha Omega]

Hi Breadwinner,

I would prime with Bal APD

Level if req'd as Dave says,
The bigger the tile the flatter the floor needs to be for a good result

As for the cutter, use a porcelain wheel and be patient

Regards
Gary

 

[Fred]

vitrex versatile power 500 wet saw has a 16mm bore for the wheel. You can get the porcelain blade from blackdiamond, search them on the net, their blades are ace and come at 16mm when you order.

 

[Deleted member 1779]

Tiles: If the tile company stated they do not need sealing then your tiles are fine. You've paid £50psm and there are tiles out there cheap and porous (B&Q £10psm) so don't confuse the need to prepare your tiles in the same way as porous tiles.

What would happen if you did? Not much!

Equipment: 600's are quite a wide tile for overhead radial cutters so your choice is good. And as mentioned above its not the machine, its the blade. Go for a quality diamond blade for better life, neater cuts.

The power of the motor is your most likely weak point so go slowly and dont rush the tile through the blade or your motor will groan. As long as the machine is spinning at good revs and most importantly dumping water on the work in progress then you are doing the right things.

This is a 600 being cut on a similar saw. (Remember yours will be twice as long as this 300): Please also remember to wear safety googles

And finally (here comes the advert bit) We produce commercial diamond drills and have a value for money pack. It works out at £7.15 per drill and they are specifically designed for porcelain.

Professional quality drills - value for money

 

[breadwinner]

Thanks Guys. Posts are very helpful.

Re Black Diamond Range
Is an ultra thin or turbo porcelin blade better for the job I'm doing or is the turbo blade for more powerful cutters? What's the impact of the blade width?

 

[breadwinner]

Thanks Dave

Wondering whether I might be better switching to Keraflex as I'm not the quickest tiler. Would Keraflex also be a better option for the slight floor level imperfections. How bad to thing have to be for the need to screed?

 

[breadwinner]

I'm still working on getting that vinyl adhesive off the concrete. Do you recommend I give it the heat treatment or just to keep slogging away with the floor scrapper.

 

[Deleted member 9966]

I'm still working on getting that vinyl adhesive off the concrete. Do you recommend I give it the heat treatment or just to keep slogging away with the floor scrapper.

have you tried a wire brush drill attachment on the end of a regular power drill or attached to an angle grinder? that should save you having to slog at it manually

 

[breadwinner]

Thanks GRR, I'll try the brush to see how that goes. Prefer to avoid grinding if possible as the dust ends up being a nightmare.

 

[breadwinner]

Hi Breadwinner,

I would prime with Bal APD

Level if req'd as Dave says,
The bigger the tile the flatter the floor needs to be for a good result

As for the cutter, use a porcelain wheel and be patient

Regards
Gary

If I SLC what would you recommend and should I still prime first

 

[Alpha Omega]

Hi Breadwinner,

Yes, Prime first, it will slow the "sucking" of the SLC and help it flow more.
My experience has only been with Bal, and would reccomend the Multibase, just mix as per the instructions, if possible mix and pour all you will need in one hit rather than build up in layers

Don't over do it though + or - 3mm over a 2 mtr span is plenty good enough, also the odd big hole will fill nicely with the adhesive.

I would sand the surface with a good rubbing blockand get rid of the high spots before turning to SLC

Good luck.

Regards
Gary

 

[Alpha Omega]

Hi Breadwinner,

Should also have mentioned to use a spiked roller to help spread the SLC.

I am unsure of the area you are doing, but if you have to purchase the correct tools etc, may be cheaper and easier for you to get an expert in to do the job ?, while you sit back with a beer. :8:

 

[breadwinner]

Hi Breadwinner,

Should also have mentioned to use a spiked roller to help spread the SLC.

I am unsure of the area you are doing, but if you have to purchase the correct tools etc, may be cheaper and easier for you to get an expert in to do the job ?, while you sit back with a beer. :8:

about 7.5 m total so not giant by any means