Porcelain floor tiles

[lewisloo]

Hi
I have just finished my kitchen and the floor is the next project, I have layed 18mm ply over the orginal floor boards and bought the tiles (porcelain floor tiles), in my haste I picked up a couple of tubs of adhesive and grout for wooden floors, it wasnt until I got home and read the tub and realised this is not suitable for porcelain floor tiles, now im stuck on what to use, having looked on the B&Q website there is a unibond cement which is suitable for porcelain tiles, is this the best option? ,and can I still use the tubs I have bought for grouting? any help will be much appreciated
many thanks
p.s can a grip and fill adhesive be used?

 

[Dontiler]

Don't think it's good idea to tile straight on to ply, I would still glue and screw hardibacker, 6 mm will do it if floor is not bouncing, other option is to use uncoupling membrane

 

[Rich]

I agree with Dontiler. Also I wouldnt bother going to B&Q for the adhesive, Is there a Tile Giant near you? If not there must be a topps. Go in there and talk to the guys in there. If its Tile Giant it will be Mapei (my personal fav) or if its topps it will be BAL. You will want 6mm backer board like no more ply or Hardie (provising there is no deflection in your floor) and a single part flexible cement based adhesive. I would take the fix and grout back to the shop and pick yourself up some suitable floor grout from said suppier. Might work out slightly more money but I promise you it is worth it.

 

[aflemi]

Don't think it's good idea to tile straight on to ply, I would still glue and screw hardibacker, 6 mm will do it if floor is not bouncing, other option is to use uncoupling membrane

Why not tile onto 18mm ply overboarding? Sounds pretty good to me as it is.
Only point I would make is to check the adhesive you use doesn't recommend you seal the underside of the ply, like BAL.

 

[Rich]

It is always better to tile onto a backer board rather than straight on to ply.

 

[White Room]

If the original floor boards are good and no bounce why not just use 6mm hardie

 

[aflemi]

If the original floor boards are good and no bounce why not just use 6mm hardie

ply is down already.

 

[White Room]

OH right

 

[aflemi]

It is always better to tile onto a backer board rather than straight on to ply.

Can you expand with reasoning please?

 

[Rich]

I dont like tiling on to ply given the choice, tile backerboards are designed to be tiled onto, ply is not.

• Ply will swell with moisture, this can cause tiles to lift or grout to crack
• If ply get damp but not enough to lift tiles, it can stain the grout
• A lot of ply is treated with fire resistant chemicals that stop the adhesive bonding
• Most ply is NOT suitable to tile onto

Backer boards will do none of the above.

 

[jubba]

Just done my kitchen floor, made sure floorboards where fixed well, overlayed with 9mm ply with screws every 150mm, primed with granfix acrylic primer then used granfix superflex adhesive. Suitable for porcelain & says can be laid directly onto floorboards, so your 18mm should be more than ample. (as long as its solid)

Only been down a week, but Jumped up an down on them a bit (LOL), and feels pretty soild.

 

[aflemi]

I dont like tiling on to ply given the choice, tile backerboards are designed to be tiled onto, ply is not.

• Ply will swell with moisture, this can cause tiles to lift or grout to crack
• If ply get damp but not enough to lift tiles, it can stain the grout
• A lot of ply is treated with fire resistant chemicals that stop the adhesive bonding
• Most ply is NOT suitable to tile onto

Backer boards will do none of the above.

The OP has already laid the ply (18mm, which is thicker than most people seem to use, 12mm generally appears to be an acceptable minimum).
I must have read hundreds of posts regarding tiling onto ply and, maybe I'm wrong but, on the contrary, it seems totally acceptable as being suitable to tile onto. I'd be interested to hear other tilers views on this??:bigear:

 

[White Room]

I do work for plumbers and they love ply, they can be hard work at times but I have to work with it

 

[Richard Edwards]

I do lay on ply - always 18mm WBP grade and seal both sides with acrylic primer. I always use Bal two part fast flex - which has already been stated on the Forum is very very expensive. - Actually I use 'Butech Tile to Wood' at trade is 60% of the cost and is the same - exactly! Always ensure boards under ply are very stable and pump in a lot of screws - usually 200mm centres or less and along all board joints and doorways at 100 mm centres - It a lot more difficult to add some more screws once the tiles are down. !!

Otherwise I use backerboards, either Hardie/Lux/Wedi or similar cheaper ones depending on the application.

:8:

Hope this gives you confidence

 

[lewisloo]

Hi
thanks for the feedback, quick update I did use marine ply (exterior) then gave it 2 coats of waterproof pva, so hope this works!!