Discuss Preparing for a good job in the British & UK Tiling Forum area at TilersForums.com.

S

sfaulkner

Hi all

Firstly thanks to all those who have welcomed me to this forum :thumbsup:

I'm just to about to start a project at home whereby I am converting a spare bedroom in to an ensuite.

I am a joiner by trade although now pushing paper around so I'm confident enough to do this and have tiled before. However, I have to ask the experts before I start and having read a few things on hear first, I'm glad I'm in good hands:thumbsup:

The house is 4 years old and a new build. The room has plasterboard walls, skimmed and painted with emulsion.

1: Should I be looking to re-line all the walls and what with, new plasterboard or an insulation board. (cost quite important).

2: I'm building the raised shower cubical out of 18mm ply so I assume that once it's been primed (not PVA :yikes:) and tanked properly this will be fine.

3: The existing floor is very flat and level in standard chipboard flooring, so prep advice hear will be great.

I'm going to use 600 x 400 travertine tiles and some mosaics (shower floor and small features)

Looking forward to hearing anyones advice.
Thanks.
Simon
 
M

mikethetile

Relining with plasterboard is a good idea using aquapanel in the wet areas and tanking.

as the room is empty nows a good time to rip up the chipboard floor and replace with 18mm wbp ply, you will need access for plumbing anyway. as a joiner I dont need to go into how to noggin etc, prime the underside of the board with primer g and fix down @300 centres

you may overboard this with 6mm backerboard which will give an excellant substrate to tile to, use addy under the backerboards as well as mechanical fixings, check with the addy wether they reccomend priming the ply before adhering the backer boards

using 18mm for the tray will be fine, but its belt and braces with the support as you dont want any deflection at all. wet decs on here sells tanking kits

others will probably add to this if ive forgotten to mention something:thumbsup:
 
S

sfaulkner

Thanks Mike, appreciate your help, few added questions below.

mikethetile;320768]Relining with plasterboard is a good idea using aquapanel in the wet areas and tanking.
Once primed can I tile straigt to the new Pboard faces?

as the room is empty nows a good time to rip up the chipboard floor and replace with 18mm wbp ply, you will need access for plumbing anyway. as a joiner I dont need to go into how to noggin etc, prime the underside of the board with primer g and fix down @300 centres

you may overboard this with 6mm backerboard which will give an excellant substrate to tile to, use addy under the backerboards as well as mechanical fixings, check with the addy wether they reccomend priming the ply before adhering the backer boards
I checked this out for cost and a good solution.

using 18mm for the tray will be fine, but its belt and braces with the support as you dont want any deflection at all. wet decs on here sells tanking kits

others will probably add to this if ive forgotten to mention something:thumbsup:

Cheers
S
 
S

sfaulkner

You can tile straight onto the new plaster board after priming it, you will want a single part cement based adhesive and be aware of the max weight of your tiles, addy and grout. You shouldnt go over 32kg per meter (should think youl be ok but best to be aware) :thumbsup:

Great advice thanks.
If I board the wet area with aquaboard and use the single part adhesive where those boards join the new plasterboard in dryer wall areas is the same adhesive ok to use on the primed new pboards?
 
R

Rich

Id prob use a 8mm trowel (depending on how thick the tiles are and how flat the wall is) and as I said above, skim the back of the tile with the flat edge of the trowel before fixing. This will fill in the voids in the back of the tile and if the colour of the adhesive bleeds through to the face of the tile, it will not be noticable. :thumbsup:
 
A

aqua blue

depends on tile and addy. Lay a notched bed of adhesive and press tile down then remove tile. Tile should be completely covered, but not so much that excessive adhesive builds up too high in the grout area.

Make sure substrate and back of tile are dust free as you go. A slightly damp sponge should come in handy for this.
 
S

sfaulkner

Id prob use a 8mm trowel (depending on how thick the tiles are and how flat the wall is) and as I said above, skim the back of the tile with the flat edge of the trowel before fixing. This will fill in the voids in the back of the tile and if the colour of the adhesive bleeds through to the face of the tile, it will not be noticable. :thumbsup:

Blinding...Thanks Dylante :thumbsup:
 

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