priming self levelling compound

[David Bingham]

i have used this to level out a bathroom floor (link below)
Ultra Level It One Fibre Plus | Topps Tiles - https://www.toppstiles.co.uk/tprod45932/ultra-level-it-one-fibre-plus.html

do i need to prime this before tiling ? and if so what ratio.

 

[Spud]

I would ,it's good practice

 

[Spud]

3 parts water 1 part primer

 

[David Bingham]

Awesome , thanks for the quick reply guys ! how long does the primer need to dry? Before it can be tiled onto?

 

[On one]

It's also helpful to prime before you pour levelling compound.

 

[David Bingham]

It was poured onto hardiebacker, I was told you didn’t need to prime hardiebacker.
How long would you leave the primer before tiling onto it?

 

[Spud]

I was told that it just needs to be touch dry by the tech guys at Tilemaster

 

[David Bingham]

That’s what I thought, but thought I would double check. Thanks for the replies guys

 

[hmtiling]

I wouldn't tank or level on top of hardie without priming first. Too porous imo

It was poured onto hardiebacker, I was told you didn’t need to prime hardiebacker.
How long would you leave the primer before tiling onto it?

 

[David Bingham]

@GaryTheTiler @hmtiling ffs!? is the floor gonna be ok with no primer ?
I levelled it straight onto to hardiebacker as that’s what I was advised to do?
I’m meant to be tiling it this Saturday... want to make sure it’s done right and not gonna crack/move . what are my options ?

 

[Tile Shop]

Before panicking, speak to both Hardie and Ultra and get their opinions. Although Hardie always say priming is optional, bear in mind one of its functions is to extract and hold moisture. Ultra recommend priming everything. It says it in the instructions on the bag. So no comeback with them if anything did go wrong.

Option 1: Risk it (50/50 chance of it might be fine)
Option 2: Providing the hardie eliminated deflection in the surface, decouple with an anti fracture mat. Personally I'd go with Ditra or Durabase.

If there are a small amount of isolated hairline cracks, see option 2, or for bigger cracks or in case the leveller has not bonded sufficiently:
Option 3 and by far the safest option for any scenario: Rip it up and start again. Its only a small area and won't take you too long and with the right priming and leveller, you can crack on within as little as 45 minutes.

 

[David Bingham]

Have just spoke to hardie and they say you don’t need to prime it.
Will ring Ultra in a bit

 

[Waluigi]

I’ll put a tenner on Ultra saying ‘it’s a crime not to prime’

 

[Tile Shop]

I’ll put a tenner on Ultra saying ‘it’s a crime not to prime’

If you going on the 100% exact wording, I'll take you up on that bet

 

[Dumbo]

Have just spoke to hardie and they say you don’t need to prime it.
Will ring Ultra in a bit

Be aware there is a lot of difference (Sorry to everybody that's heard this before ) between no need to and do not under any circumstances whatsoever prime it . By priming it you may decrease bond strength to hardie. But I would say that bond strength to primed hardie will still be stronger than some other back grounds that you have probably tiled in the past plus also the fact that you will have slowed down the drying process between the levelling and the substrate that probably means it has more time to develop a better bond than if the hardie was just sucking the moisture out of the levelling . I would say if its going to fail it won't be down to this .