Question re Hardie and adhesive

R

RDTiling

I know these will probably sound like silly questions.

I've been asked to quote for a small 2.5sqm bathroom floor so I'm looking to get this done in a day. My questions are:

1. Can you use rapid set to glue the Hardie boards to the existing substrate (floorboards)
2. If the answer to the above is yes, do you needs to wait for the rapid set to dry before you start tiling to the hardie?

Usually I glue with a standard setting adhesive on the first day and it gets a couple of days to dry out by the time I get to tiling the floor.

Thanks,
Rich
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Re: Question re Hadie and adhesive

Yes, rapidset can be used and then screwed down, then tile away! No need to let it set first
 
Re: Question re Hadie and adhesive

Use slow set & tile straight away as well.
The screws are pulling it tight onto the substrate so it ain't going to move.
 
Re: Question re Hadie and adhesive

Thought I would add another question onto this thread as its related to adhesive etc.

Got a chipboard bathroom floor to do this week. Floor is solid and screwed to joists.

I was thinking earlier and started a debate with myself on the need to use some addy on a chipboard floor when laying the hardie boards. I then found a post on here that from a Hardie Rep that said the reason was to account for any possible air pockets.

That aside, I'm going to use addy to fix and then screw the boards into place.

My question is, usually I would use a 6/8 mm trowel to fix over floor boards, but as this is a chipboard floor with no 'voids' in it, could I get away with a smaller trowel size, such as a 3 or 4 mmm trowel?
 
Thanks for the reply.

I was just curious to what others use - 6mm trowel it is then!
 
Re: Question re Hadie and adhesive

Thought I would add another question onto this thread as its related to adhesive etc.

Got a chipboard bathroom floor to do this week. Floor is solid and screwed to joists.

I was thinking earlier and started a debate with myself on the need to use some addy on a chipboard floor when laying the hardie boards. I then found a post on here that from a Hardie Rep that said the reason was to account for any possible air pockets.

That aside, I'm going to use addy to fix and then screw the boards into place.

My question is, usually I would use a 6/8 mm trowel to fix over floor boards, but as this is a chipboard floor with no 'voids' in it, could I get away with a smaller trowel size, such as a 3 or 4 mmm trowel?

as long as there are no voids in the first place you could even use a mosaic trowel lol, not for me though 6/8 mm.
 
I mix my adhesive slightly wet to fix Hardie then screw it down tight.
The adhesive isn't just there to fill voids, trying ripping a bit back up & you will find this out. [emoji27]
 
The reason is asked was because the floor i'm doing is surprisingly level (house has only been built for about 3-4 years), therefore that was the reason for questioning myself in the first place for the need for adhesive, particularly when the boards are screwed.

I'll stick to a 6mm trowel for this one - I'll not chance going any smaller than that.
 
Re Hardie over well fixed f/boards... I rarely use it, perhaps i've been over cautious but I always put 12mm ply then 6mm marmox glued and screwed as Ive read negative reports on tiling directly onto ply here. It looks like most ppl happy to fix hardie straight over well fixed f/boards then tile away?
Also do ppl generally use the hardie screws or not?
 
After being advised on this forum I now use turbo gold screws as they are a lot easier to screw into the boards then the hardie screws themselves.
 
Use slow set & tile straight away as well.
The screws are pulling it tight onto the substrate so it ain't going to move.
Cheers guys, looks like ppl happy to do this as long as boards firm so will save time and definitely height issues. Tx reply....
 
Cheers guys, looks like ppl happy to do this as long as boards firm so will save time and definitely height issues. Tx reply....

I'm not a great fan of thermal boards (I use them in certain circumstances) as I feel that Hardie gives a bit more strength to the floor.
Hardie state that their boards offer no structural strength but it doesn't feel like that.
Yes the Hardie boards can be a pig to work with, ie cut but they are easy to lay & I've never had a failure with them.
 
I'm not a great fan of thermal boards (I use them in certain circumstances) as I feel that Hardie gives a bit more strength to the floor.
Hardie state that their boards offer no structural strength but it doesn't feel like that.
Yes the Hardie boards can be a pig to work with, ie cut but they are easy to lay & I've never had a failure with them.
Cheers Steven, well they give negligible additional strength but thats why I use 12mm ply underneath, however as ppl are happy to go straight over well fixed f/boards with hardie and tile over then seems way forward. Key is obviously that you are happy with rigidity of f/boards 1st and yes hardie will add a bit because of their inflexibility but they don't claim that as a benefit.
Good you are busy pal hope you get the right standard of help you need soon, cheers.
 
Cheers Steven, well they give negligible additional strength but thats why I use 12mm ply underneath, however as ppl are happy to go straight over well fixed f/boards with hardie and tile over then seems way forward. Key is obviously that you are happy with rigidity of f/boards 1st and yes hardie will add a bit because of their inflexibility but they don't claim that as a benefit.
Good you are busy pal hope you get the right standard of help you need soon, cheers.

Cheers Al, started & sacked a tiler with 22yrs experience already, started another tiler last week, a couple of tweeks here & there & he will come good..
Cheers m8, have a good festive..
 

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