Questions!

[Bubblecraft]

BUBBLECRAFT - that does help thanks. Just a couple of things:

1. What are chases?
2. How do you re-sheet? Would that mean evening walls out, then putting plasterboard, backer board whatever on them? How would you even the walls out?

Chases as in pipe chases etc. More or less all external corners (Where possible)

To even out the wall, you first will have to remove tiles. For old plaster walls, take back plaster to at least the scratch coat or to the brick then dot & dab your new sheets on. Use a large piece of 4x2 timber to whack it in place then use your bead to level out. Be sure to put plenty dry wall adhesive on it. Use 12.5mm plasterboard to re-sheet (MR plasterboard or equivalent around baths & showers. Hardi backer etc) The more you do it, the easier it will become. For hollow walls, remove old plasterboard (lathe & plaster on older houses) to the stud partition & re-sheet.

Not all screeds need to be primed. It depends on the nature of the surface, type of screed and type of adhesive.

That said most good tilers prime most screeds.

I agree with you here but with him being relatively new to tiling, I'd say prime all floors until you have a better understanding of floor types.

Setting out is the MOST important thing. As said above, don't start with your first tile until you know where your last ends. Carry your pattern around walls where possible.

With floor types, I make sure it is a full tile at the door (where possible) in most cases.

 

[Bubblecraft]

Lathe & plaster on right

Back to brick and/or scratch coat

 

[ag1975]

Chases as in pipe chases etc. More or less all external corners (Where possible)

To even out the wall, you first will have to remove tiles. For old plaster walls, take back plaster to at least the scratch coat or to the brick then dot & dab your new sheets on. Use a large piece of 4x2 timber to whack it in place then use your bead to level out. Be sure to put plenty dry wall adhesive on it. Use 12.5mm plasterboard to re-sheet (MR plasterboard or equivalent around baths & showers. Hardi backer etc) The more you do it, the easier it will become. For hollow walls, remove old plasterboard (lathe & plaster on older houses) to the stud partition & re-sheet.



I agree with you here but with him being relatively new to tiling, I'd say prime all floors until you have a better understanding of floor types.

Setting out is the MOST important thing. As said above, don't start with your first tile until you know where your last ends. Carry your pattern around walls where possible.

With floor types, I make sure it is a full tile at the door (where possible) in most cases.

Very helpful again, thanks.

Just one thing, when I asked how do you even the walls out, what i meant to say was how do you straighten walls rather than level. I've just tiled a bathroom where the walls were wider at the top than the bottom by about 20mm. We hadn't set out well enough (we used brick bond so was tricky for us) and were left with edge tiles in the corner by the door, tapering from about 70mm at the top to 50mm at the bottom. Doesn't look great but not too bad as they're not that visible. Is there anything you can do about straightening walls out or do you just have to make the best of it?

 

[kendo1]

I would make the tiled walls vertical, then that does not happen. A lot of tI've come across, the previous tilers have just followed the wall. Seeing as I'm a bathroom fitter, it doesn't half bugger up fitting shower enclosures. The first one I did the tiler did his work and left. There wasn't enough play in the uprights to fit the shower enclosure- there was a difference of about 75mm between top and bottom.

 

[ag1975]

I would make the tiled walls vertical, then that does not happen. A lot of tI've come across, the previous tilers have just followed the wall. Seeing as I'm a bathroom fitter, it doesn't half bugger up fitting shower enclosures. The first one I did the tiler did his work and left. There wasn't enough play in the uprights to fit the shower enclosure- there was a difference of about 75mm between top and bottom.

Did you have to cut the tiles and substrate to get in?

As well as tiling the bathroom I'm working on, I'm painting, plumbing and fitting shower enclosure, toilet and sink so I can understand what you're saying. First time I've done anything like this, my head hurts

 

[kendo1]

I always keep tiles plumb to avoid these problems, that's why I started doing my own tiling.
I had to cut into the tiles with an angle grinder and pack out the top. Tiles were black porcelain 600 x 300.

 

[White Room]

Lathe & plaster on right

Back to brick and/or scratch coat

Scratching sand/cement should be horizontal wavy lines....

 

[Mike]

Scratching sand/cement should be horizontal wavy lines....

it looks a botch job, a decent plasterer will always leave neat 'scratches'

 

[Bubblecraft]

I agree. All the houses up this way are like that, hence why there all blown. Guess that was acceptable 70 years ago lol

Works in my favour though, plenty of bathrooms, kitchens, hallways, living rooms, bedrooms etc for me to do! Lol

 

[plan-it-earth]

What a good bit of advice