Quick question - tiling to wood

[kimik123]

im tiling a 10m2 kitchen floor with slate looking ceramic tiles, i will be tiling strate onto new floorboards which are these big things from bnq, will this be ok? will i need to prime or anything like that? also what addy would i use, thanks for ur help in advance,

 

[grumpygrouter]

Re: Quick question.

im tiling a 10m2 kitchen floor with slate looking ceramic tiles, i will be tiling strate onto new floorboards which are these big things from bnq, will this be ok? will i need to prime or anything like that? also what addy would i use, thanks for ur help in advance,

You couldn't expand a bit more about this could you. More detailed the info, the better the advice you will receive.

 

[kimik123]

Re: Quick question.

yeah course grumps, there just sheets of wood maybe 6ft long 2 ft wide, they look like mdf, but they are made for replacement floor boards , and there screwed down to the joists proply and theres little movement. i just cannot get a hold of the name, i was told they were from bnq but cannot find them on there site like, so who knows,

 

[grumpygrouter]

Re: Quick question.

If the floor is solid (no bounce) you have a couple of options really, 1. you can overboard anyway with ply or backerboard and tile on top of that or 2. Use a (bal or Mapei) 2 part flexy adhesive straight down on top, or Ardex 7001 or Granafix Ultimateflex.

As we can't see what you can see, my inclination would be to lay 6mm Hardie backerboard and then tile on top of that.

If you are SURE the floor is solid and there are no gaps that require filling then you have the option to use something like Ardex 7001, Granfix Ultimateflex or BAL Fastflex straight on the top.

Which ever way you choose to go, ALWAYS check out your preferred adhesive manufacturers preparation recommendations.

 

[kimik123]

Re: Quick question.

thanks very much grumps, think ill go with the granfix as its my fav stuff anyways, yeah certain theres no bouce and no gaps as its that t&g stuff i think its called what fits together like for example laminate flooring,

 

[Dan]

Re: Quick question.

I guess it's got a green tint to it and it's 20-odd mm thick tongue and grooved trated chipboard, it's the stuff you'd see in new-builds these days.

It's sound to tile to as long as you're okay weight-wise like grumps says.

 

[kimik123]

Re: Quick question.

yeah, thats what it is dan, with it being ceramic tiles the weight wont be a problem like, cheers for ur help lads.

 

[DHTiling]

Re: Quick question.

I personally don't recommend tiling directly to chipboard...not stable enough IMO....overboard with a thin backerboard and tile with an elastomeric type adhesive or use a thicker ply overlay and tile with a standard rapid setting flexible adhesive..

 

[medlar]

Re: Quick question.

overboard with ply and fix using fast flex,i would`nt fix straight onto chipboard no matter what,only my opinion like

 

[grumpygrouter]

Re: Quick question.

My apologies, i missed the "mdf like" bit of the post. I thought we were talking "normal" timber. As it is with a floor that size, i would recommend over boarding, but if you're SURE the floor is solid, my original recommendations still stand.

 

[kimik123]

Re: Quick question.

yeah i understand what ur saying there dave,

one more thing, ive never put ceramic down on a floor b4 would never thought it would be strong enough?

 

[kimik123]

doesnt look like overboarding is guna be an option on this one like, just been on the phone there. if i was defo certain that is was the incorrect thing to do i would have pushed it more, but on this one im just guna go for it.

 

[AllurePTS]

If it is the Green Tinted chipboard ....it's called Kaberdek, it's good quality and highly water resistant .....it's used a lot in the Timber frame industry .... the joiners often errect the building structure and lay the floor to give them a working platform - while they construct the outer walls and roof .....they use Kaberdek as it can get soaked without causing problems. For the same reason, it's also popular in the aftermarket for use in bathrooms and kitchens.

It comes in 18mm and 22mm - if it's upstairs in a modern house then it's most likely to be 18mm, if it's downstairs it's most likely to be 22mm ....it's vacuum treated (rather than just dipped) ...... so it's very stable if it gets wet .....so, provided it's properly laid and well screwed down, then the chances are good that it will survive without problems.

The "wetting" from the tiling process certainly won't damage it - it will dry out fine without swelling.......it's what happens to it in it's lifetime that could cause problems !!! .....so, as the guys say ....use a good flexi addy and grout and also seal well round the perimiter with silicon, to minimise the chances of water ingress.

I did a number of these for a contractor over 10 years ago and (as I still know a few people that own the houses) .....I know they are still good to this day, I've also done a few within my family and they are all still fine too.

As the guys say though ....this is still NOT recommended for tiling - and it's always best to overboard if at all possible :yes:

What worries me Kimik .....is that you say "it looks like MDF" .....there are some other kinds of fibrous boards out there and some of them are cheap and nasty and will swell big time if they get wet ......so you do really need to check what this stuff is .....personally, I would be happy to take the risk with Kaberdek, but not anything else (unless it's waterproof and designed for that use)

Hope that helps anyway, good luck

 

[White Room]

You could scratch up the surface with very course sand paper for a bit more grip

 

[wivers]

I have tiled direct onto this stuff with bal 2 part flexi. I did a whole upstairs landing and toilet and even their stairs a while ago, and its all fine. The 2 part gear sticks like Fekin to White snake album, quality stuff. I had to shave the hairs off me knee caps to get the gear off