Replacing chipboard floor

[robster]

Hi,
I'm having a kitchen retiled (about 20 M2), and a tiler who has quoted isn'thappy with the current floating chipboard floor for various reasons (movement, moisture resistance, level etc..), and I'm inclined to agree with him.

Basically, I think have two options....

1) Overlay with something like nomoreply - cost effective, still have to do some work on the levels, but means I will have a step up into the kitchen.

2) Rip up and replace the existing floor....but with what? 18mm ply? Anything else suitable? Wickes sell 18mm Exterior WBP ply for £9.40 a M2....Is this a good price?

Tiler suggested using Wediboard or Marmox....Any thoughts?

So what's the best course of action here?

Many thanks

Rob

 

[DHTiling]

Hi rob..welcome to the forums...

Firstly with it bieng a floating floor it isnt just a straight forward process...if it does have to much movement then you have three options as far as i can see...

1. Rip up the floating floor and screed the floor ..

2. If no pipes run underneath the floating floor then you could use frame fixing screws and screw it down tight...and ply it...

3. Anf if the movement isnt alot then you could ply it and tile it...

Floating floors are not the best substrate to tile to anyway.....so it wise to tile it using BAL fastflex or similar which ever method you go for.....

 

[muffinman]

just done a floating chipboard floor used ditra matting but floor was solid as a rock like the song

 

[robster]

I think what I'm going to do is lift the chipboard and replace with 18mm ply, adding lots of noggins. I think the bulges are due to the concrete substrate being un-level, so I will simple lift the bearers and plane off to get level.

Sounds simple......my wife says she's going away for the weekend tho!!!

 

[Perry]

you can get 18mm t&g wpb in 600mm sheets much better for tiled floors these are a very product for for this type of work as well times money 😛ete
http://www.multifixings.com/categorysub.asp?scid=4&catid=1
ps dont buy them from here to expensive

 

[brian c]

you can get 18mm t&g wpb in 600mm sheets much better for tiled floors these are a very product for for this type of work as well times money 😛ete
http://www.multifixings.com/categorysub.asp?scid=4&catid=1
ps dont buy them from here to expensive[/q
Pete,he will still need to put ply on top of the boards you have recommended would he not m8?I know the ones you are talking about as i used to sell them when i worked in a builders merchants many moons ago.

 

[Perry]

just depends on how its fixed we tend to have 300 centres on the joists when we use it so its a lot better

 

[tilermandan]

id go for screwing the existing weyroc boarding to the concrete base(checking for pipes first) using 'thunderbolts' then over lay with 9-18mm ply screwed at 300mm centres and then use agood two part flexi adhesive. i always use mapei s1 adhesive with a latex addative the sucess of this method depends on how flat the base substrate is.
or alternatively you could try a disonnecting membrane but that would be more costly.

 

[brian c]

just depends on how its fixed we tend to have 300 centres on the joists when we use it so its a lot better

Once you have fitted the t&g Pete,do you tile straight on top of the t&g flooring?

I have only did this once because the customer insisted .Actually spoke to him recently and asked how his floor was and he said absolutely no probs,grout hasnt cracked or anything.As i have said before i would use 12mm ply on top of t&G BECAUSE OF MOVEMENT ETC BUT ARE YOU SAYING THAT YOU DONT?

 

[robster]

Thanks for the replies guys.

What I really don't want to do is over-ply - as I don't want to increase height....hence the idea of replacing chipboard with ply, and putting lots of noggins in - espeicially under the bearers.

I will almost certainly reinforce the attachement of the bearers to the subtrate, and screw the ply down at no more than 300mm centres. How does this sound?

Cheers.