Rubi cutter problem???

[cityone]

Evening lads, I,ve just bought a rubi ts-60-plus manual cutter, today I used it for the first time on a 600x600 10mm thick polished porcelain tile, when I cut the tile a chunk of it chipped off the corner next to the breaker arm this also happend on the next cut but finally on the third effort it was a clean cut, what am I not doing right??? thanks in advance for any help!!

 

[smurf21]

your not doing anything wrong its just the braking mech on that type of rubi isnt allways suited to a tough porc tile it beaks better with the under handle breaker ie the ti..s..66 rubi or similar. just got to persevere

 

[stevee]

hiya mate ,believe it or not, ive got a ts60 plus and cut my first 600sq black polished porcelain from b&q, the first cut snapped the corner off the offcut luckily

the second cut was ok ,im sure i snapped it quicker /firmer the second time ,if u know what i mean,may be a knack to it

oh!:welcome:,steve

 

[doug boardley]

I got rid of mine cos I couldn't get to grips with it. A tx 700 is far superior imo

 

[kilty55]

agree with doug i use the tx700 for large porc tiles much better

 

[cityone]

Thanks for your replies lads!!!

 

[theanalyst]

Ive got a TS 60 plus and have cut 15mm polished porcelain tiles with it with no issues.

There IS a technique to it, and this comes with time and practice...!

When I first got it I broke a couple of tiles but after that I havent broken one even on thin cuts of thick, rock hard porcelain!

The trick is to scribe very firmly, make sure the tile doesnt move 1mm when you have finished the scribe (if the cut is not straight so the tile end is not butted up to the end plate)
Then, use a firm , positive breaking motion to break the tile.

Jobs a good un.

 

[doug boardley]

Ive got a TS 60 plus and have cut 15mm polished porcelain tiles with it with no issues.

There IS a technique to it, and this comes with time and practice...!

When I first got it I broke a couple of tiles but after that I havent broken one even on thin cuts of thick, rock hard porcelain!

The trick is to scribe very firmly, make sure the tile doesnt move 1mm when you have finished the scribe (if the cut is not straight so the tile end is not butted up to the end plate)
Then, use a firm , positive breaking motion to break the tile.

Jobs a good un.

tried all that, and then realised that the ts 60 was probably ok on large format ceramic not porc

 

[theanalyst]

tried all that, and then realised that the ts 60 was probably ok on large format ceramic not porc

This is the Ts 60 PLus, not sure if thats the same as the one you are on about.
but I have never had any problems with it myself...with ,as I said 600mm x 30mm x 15mm polished porcelain down to cheapo ceramic.


its all in the wrist action as they say

 

[Swanseajack]

Had a similiar promblem when I bought my TS 60 Plus, also the cuts were not straight, slight curve. Took it back and bought a TX instead, for some reason I had the TX cheaper than the TS.:hurray:

 

[markfromrubi]

Try using a 18mm scoring wheel and when you go to break the tile do with a quick, sharp pull of the breaking arm.
Where do you live? I may be able to have a look.

 

[mr inspreadable]

Hi,cityone
I had this problem on my ts-60 all i did was to adjust the breaker so that it was dead centre on the line.One other trick is place your hand on the tile, opposite the breaker and push down when splitting the tile,or try breaking the tile over the bars.what i have found is 18mm scoring wheel and push nice and hard.

 

[frankenfurter]

Used tons from this range of cutters over the years, really easy to use and generally really good for ceramics. But for anything tougher then you need a different beast all together. As soon as you need to start trying different techniques, hand placements etc you're just wasting time in my opinion and concentrating on everything bar the accuracy of your cut.

The TX are a nice range albeit heavy, montolit nice preferred the pull motion variants, Sigma the king of all cutters as far as we as a company are concerned (we cut geometric triangles with them they are that accurate) and are issued as standard to all my guys. The supercoup from Tomecanic is a beast of a machine, often too much for ceramics though.

 

[Wylie]

Used tons from this range of cutters over the years, really easy to use and generally really good for ceramics. But for anything tougher then you need a different beast all together. As soon as you need to start trying different techniques, hand placements etc you're just wasting time in my opinion and concentrating on everything bar the accuracy of your cut.

The TX are a nice range albeit heavy, montolit nice preferred the pull motion variants, Sigma the king of all cutters as far as we as a company are concerned (we cut geometric triangles with them they are that accurate) and are issued as standard to all my guys. The supercoup from Tomecanic is a beast of a machine, often too much for ceramics though.

Have you used the klick klocke if so how do you find it compared to the pull?

 

[frankenfurter]

I've not tried that to be honest, looked at the videos though. Just find the pull so easy to use