Discuss Setting out a Victorian Hallway in the UK Tiling Forum area at TilersForums.com.

S

Stan001

Stunning as always – love the way you tapered the centre tiles.
I’d appreciate your advice – I’ve wanted to do Victorian geometrics for a while, I might go on a specialist course I know of but wonder if you have better advice.

1.[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]I have the Original Style installation booklet, is this the same layout process you use?
2.[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]What is you recommended addy and grout, do you always use the same, and do Victorians require special characteristics (ref that addy and grout) compared to normal floor addy and grout.
3.[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]Do you always put down a backer board if you can (what’s your preference) I’m guessing that flatness is critical, or is SLC ok for a base?
4.[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]What is the cutter you use? I have a TX700N and find it cuts ears off a 4inch tile very well, but I’m guessing you use a small cutter that’s easy to measure with? Do you use a wet cutter?
5.[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]What is the best way for me to start? How did you start? Is a course a good idea or should I just go for it? (I have an own project of a small porch area that would be good to practice on)

John – sorry for so many dumb questions, but I don’t know who else is best placed to answer. Cheers, Stan
 
T

Time's Ran Out

Stunning as always – love the way you tapered the centre tiles.
I’d appreciate your advice – I’ve wanted to do Victorian geometrics for a while, I might go on a specialist course I know of but wonder if you have better advice.

1.I have the Original Style installation booklet, is this the same layout process you use?
2.What is you recommended addy and grout, do you always use the same, and do Victorians require special characteristics (ref that addy and grout) compared to normal floor addy and grout.
3.Do you always put down a backer board if you can (what’s your preference) I’m guessing that flatness is critical, or is SLC ok for a base?
4.What is the cutter you use? I have a TX700N and find it cuts ears off a 4inch tile very well, but I’m guessing you use a small cutter that’s easy to measure with? Do you use a wet cutter?
5.What is the best way for me to start? How did you start? Is a course a good idea or should I just go for it? (I have an own project of a small porch area that would be good to practice on)

John – sorry for so many dumb questions, but I don’t know who else is best placed to answer. Cheers, Stan

Stan - You can PM me the details of your small porch and I'll see what I can add.
Your questions :
I've got books on Victorian floors with various patterns but certainly the marketing by Original Style is good.
The adhesive like all tiling is dependant on the substrate and flexibility required with UFH/wood/backer boards etc. Grout tends to be mid grey.
Backer boards/ditra/plywood/levelling screed - I'll tile on anything solid.
Cutter - 20year old TS40 (but with a new wheel for each job - to hell with the expense) and a Norton wet cutter for the intricate cuts/corners.
My first Victorian was about 25years ago - I was impressed with a conservatory floor in a magazine and I borrowed the design and using a traditional red/black/white colour palate tiled a floor for a local conservatory/window company in their showground. It was a loss leader to do but the amount of work it brought in was amazing!
As far as learning to do this type of work is concerned - getting your first one is essential - and if you enjoy it the rest will come as your enthusiasm will win through and the next will be better.

Hope you've enjoyed the photos and brief explanations.:thumbsup:
 
M

mikethetile

The story so far : Setting out a Victorian Hallway
I answered a couple of posts on this subject in September to an enquiry from a new member.
It transpired that the job was local and I offered to help set out an unusual shaped hallway in a Victorian terraced 'Crescent'.
The customer has had the tiles for over 2 years while redevelopment of the property was undertaken and the job was ready for this interesting challenge!
Having discussed the job with the customer and having been asked to provide a tender for the work, we were asked to undertake the project!:thumbsup:

Step 1 - Fix floorboards - fix Hardie Tile backer boards - lay Underfloor Heating.
View attachment 4971
Step 2 - Lay out alternate design for customer choice.
View attachment 4972
Step 3 - set out and lay customers own tiles to agreed design

The setting out took over 4 hours with many lines of attack but the difficulty was in having no parallel walls ( being built in a crescent shape the hallway is 600mm wider to the staircase than the front door) However as the customer had many photos /designs of patterns running under the staircase this has helped the eye flow with the tiles IMO.
As this is still a work in progress - I shall update the thread next week.:thumbsup:

hey thanks very much john , its a completely new area of tiling for me to see ,i have appreciated this work ,and shop doorway mosaics for years,mate iv'e even thought of taking pics around the country of shop doorways and compiling a book of pics, keep it up john, your a star m8
smiley3209.gif

Dave

Im taking pics of doorways wherever I go

ive been all over the isle of wight and some other places , its surprising how different areas have different styles
 

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