Showertray niche and more

[G1zm0]

Hi. Im going to lay a stone resin showertray . There's no instructions but was going to use sand and cement mix, then I saw tech 7 super adhesive/sealent.
Has anyone used this . The company said it would do the job.

Also im thinking of doing a shower niche, its 3 inch framing that's in wall. Was going to cut square, insett battons then mr plasterboard with 6mm no more ply. Then tape and tankIit , and insert Marble shelves and mosaic tiles.

On the shower wall (its 720 tray) im goingto put a line of mosaic tiles down behind shower head. Do I do this before I put rest of tiles up.then going to do a mosaic border around room.

The plasterboard that's up (got mapei primer g to prime) theres a but next to a factory edge. Will this be ok if filled with plaster of adhesive.

My new wbp floor , at two bits theres a 1mm or 2 mm height difference, can't c What's causing it (maby joists) .im laying 6mm no more ply. Will this b an issue or should I try level it a bit with plaster or cement or the nmp adhesive.

Thanks. Any comments help appreciated

 

[Qwerty]

If the resin tray has a flat base, then I would use a grab adhesive or cement tile adhesive.


As for the mosaic, fix the field tiles first then fix the mosaic using the dog tooth method. Use off cuts as packers to keep a universal sized gap for the mosaic.

The plasterboard that's up (got mapei primer g to prime) theres a but next to a factory edge. Will this be ok if filled with plaster of adhesive.

I'm not sure what you mean?


As for levels....I personally wouldn't worry about 1-2mm but could easily be levelled with a fibre reinforced SLC after backer boards go down if you wanted. Depends if this is isolated to one particular high or low spot or over the whole floor.

 

[One Day]

Just a heads-up: That word you used instead of "niche", It's rather rude in arabic!

 

[Qwerty]

Just a heads-up: That word you used instead of "niche", It's rather rude in arabic!

so it was. Title & body of post amended!

 

[G1zm0]

Thanks for replay. What I mean is I put new plasterboard up . U know how u got the factory edge (tapered) , well I have that next to a butt edge ( taperes edge cut off). , so should I just plaster it b4 cementing. To make it level.
The shower alcove im doing , I guess it should b 2.6 inch . Is it worth doing or is the a better way to do a shelf.

The mosaic tiles are 10mm marble and the field tile is 9mm.

Wood The dogtooth method work (would need skim wall where all field tiles are). Or should I use 6mm trowel for mosaic and 8 for field tiles.
But dig them in to the adhesive to come level with mosaic

 

[TJ Smiler]

Thanks for replay. What I mean is I put new plasterboard up . U know how u got the factory edge (tapered) , well I have that next to a butt edge ( taperes edge cut off). , so should I just plaster it b4 cementing. To make it level.
The shower alcove im doing , I guess it should b 2.6 inch . Is it worth doing or is the a better way to do a shelf.

The mosaic tiles are 10mm marble and the field tile is 9mm.

Wood The dogtooth method work (would need skim wall where all field tiles are). Or should I use 6mm trowel for mosaic and 8 for field tiles.
But dig them in to the adhesive to come level with mosaic

I wouldn't worry about the tapered edge, just feather some rapid set flexi from the square edge board to fill the tiny void between the tapered and square edge board. If the joint is where you are going to have your field tile then i wouldn't even do that, just fill it as you tile.

If your field tile is only 1mm smaller than your mosaic then you could always put your mosaics in first, get them flat and plumb and then tile your field tile from that and just work with the adhesive to make it run flush....It's only 1mm so not really worth worrying about either mate

 

[TJ Smiler]

Just seen that you said you were tanking it, in that case you will need to fill that small void between the tapered and square edge board before you do so, use RSF to do it. When i do any type of rendering with adhesive i always come back to it after a couple of hours when it has gone almost hard and run a slightly damp sponge over it to take out any small lumps.

 

[G1zm0]

Thanks for replay. The feathered edge isnt where its going to get tanked . Its out the shower area. The rest of the wall is getting primed with primer g, then tiled.

The shower alcove is it worth the extra work, last night I picked up 2 pieces of marble tile (about 6 inch bridth).im wondering if I could make some kind of Corner shelf out of it or something.

 

[G1zm0]

Hi. Ive put the shower tray down. Just used mapei keraquick and 10mm trowel
I was going to use cement but decided against it , but in preparation for the cement I used sbr on the shower floor area.
I added water to bucket and added powder till it formed a peak. Then mixed using electric mixer, then had to add more powder to get a good consistency, but after 40 mins the adhesive in bucket was still soft and resembled a good cement. Did I mix it wrong. Its went hard now .
I used a sealux aquastrap seal and forget to pinch the corner so its rounded and wont reach the corner. Im going to tank the wall , will the mapei seal go over the aqua seal or do I not have to add it to shower tray. But cut at the wall corner and use it at that part.
The wall was out about 6 mill . But the tile still sits on the tray ok and I think the talking and adhesive will take it out abt 5 mill.
Using a 6mm wall trowel.
Going to fill some holes tonight then tank area and use primer g on rest of the plasterboard wall. Is there a different dilution ratio fir ordinary to mr plasterboard ?.
Now to measure and make a guide stick for tile placement . I think shower tray at bottom will be just over 3 quarters of Tile so it runs with the floor. Do I need to measure from floor up or do I put a mockup of the floor tiles down and measure from the . If im using 10 mm trowel for floor I take it when it collapse its only 5mm
One last thing . My opened bag of addy . Its on carpeted floor in room that's about 12 degree. I put a loose bag over it incase it topples. How long a life has it got before it hardens .
Thanks

 

[G1zm0]

Anyone ?

 

[Qwerty]

If the adhesive has gone off fine then don't worry.
I'm not too sure what you mean with regards to the seal strip.
Lay floor tiles then cut wall tiles to fit.
Bag will last ages if inside

 

[m3fitter]

As regard to your vertical mosaic feature, I would adhere them to 4mm dukka seperatley, usually your field tile will be 10mm porc's, use a 3 or 4mm mosaic trowel to fix them to the dukka ( pre cut to size horizontally, and then adhere your dukka panel with mosaics to the inset you have left, enabling you to achieve a flush, perfect finish to your field tile job done, tip leave 3mm extra gap as an inset for tolerance for the feature mosaic work..

 

[White Room]

Dog toothing for me....

 

[Qwerty]

Likewise

 

[G1zm0]

Thanks guys the mosaic is 10mm and field 9mm . So would 4 mm hold it ok.

What gap size should I go for . Was thinking of 3 for walls and floor.

The seal im on about is a aqua seal. Ive installed it around the tray but where the corner meets the wall . It doesn't go flush to the wall it goes round the corner instead of Square so doesn't seal right in corner. So gonna cut it at this part and then fix it up with the mapei tape and double cover the rest .

I've gave up with the alcove . Just gonna do corner shelves.

Aint dog tooth just to bring the height up to the field tile height.
.
Where im going to put the mosaic is in center of tray. But this leaves a full tile to the right then a slither, so going to cut a few rows from the mosaic to bulk it out so I dont need a slither.

With the floor. I should do that last but leave bottom row wall tiles off then hopefully get a decent sized tile in there.

Or shoukd I do floor first then walls .

Guys your advice is valuable and Welcome to me and appreciated.
Thanks