SLC virgin

[The Legend; Phil Hobson RIP]

I know what you mean Scott, but back when I served my time, every apprentice was taught to screed/ render and plaster. I must admit it has come in very handy over the years

 

[Rob Z]

Hi Guys, Thanks to Phil for the assist. We use "mud" for anything to do with mortar.

We use "screed" as a noun-to describe the straightedge that we use to cut the mud, and the work of placing and shaping the mud bed is "pulling mud" or "floating mud". Phil knows all of this from his time in the US...he's just as mixed up as I am here. :smilewinkgrin:

Scott, did you see the Youtubes videos I posted a while back? There are four of them made by one of my internet tile setter buddies from Souther California. He does a really nice job showing how to float a tub surround.

 

[steve187]

Yep, Scott mudwork is sand and cement, screeding/ rendering etc. As Rob says, it is a very good skill for any tiler.

I have done lots of screeding with both semi dry and wet sand and cement screeds, when i first started tiling thats all there was, and of course quarries of all sizes. no floor adhesives of any type.

 

[Scott]

Hi Guys, Thanks to Phil for the assist. We use "mud" for anything to do with mortar.

We use "screed" as a noun-to describe the straightedge that we use to cut the mud, and the work of placing and shaping the mud bed is "pulling mud" or "floating mud". Phil knows all of this from his time in the US...he's just as mixed up as I am here. :smilewinkgrin:

Scott, did you see the Youtubes videos I posted a while back? There are four of them made by one of my internet tile setter buddies from Souther California. He does a really nice job showing how to float a tub surround.

Was that the guy who formed the wetroom floor? If it is yes i saw them

 

[Rob Z]

Scott, no these videos were for wall work. I'll look for them again and post 'em for you.

 

[Rob Z]

Scott, this is the link to the thread with the videos:

http://www.tilersforums.com/tilers-forums-arms/47033-four-videos-worth-watching-if-you.html

 

[The Legend; Phil Hobson RIP]

Rob that takes me back, exact same method as we used to use, just different terms. We call float strips runners, and we never had resin floats for the final rub up, we use plastic floats, same thing. This method imo is the best ever, the expanded metal fixed to the wall gives a perfect key for the mud (compo).

The fact the he rubs up the mud when it is a little to wet and doesn't close it in fully, gives extra key for the tile.

Just one question Rob, does he tile the next day? I know we used to. we now have curing times, for both floating or pulling mud (rendering or screeding sand and cement).

Thanks for sharing I missed it the first time.

 

[akinsontiles]

Spiked rollers can help to make sure that you don't get joins in your SLC. may need some spiked shoes too

 

[Rob Z]

Hi Phil

Jack probably does tile the next day. Some old-school guys "wet-set" the same day.

Because I am working in old houses, I usually do the "scratch and float", ie: a scratch coat, followed up the next day with the final coat. Some of these end up at almost two inches thick, and I give them at least a week or so before doing anything else on the walls.

For floors, I usually wait a day or so.

 

[Rob Z]

Spiked rollers can help to make sure that you don't get joins in your SLC. may need some spiked shoes too

I've never seen a spiked roller (other than videos). I should look for one.

 

[White Room]

Used them for 2 part resin floors to get the air bubbles out, never used on slc though.

 

[charlie1]

Hi Phil

Jack probably does tile the next day. Some old-school guys "wet-set" the same day.

Because I am working in old houses, I usually do the "scratch and float", ie: a scratch coat, followed up the next day with the final coat. Some of these end up at almost two inches thick, and I give them at least a week or so before doing anything else on the walls.

For floors, I usually wait a day or so.

Hi Rob,

Just seen your origonal vids and very impressed with the skill involved with that type of work!! Question is, why not just dot dab plasterboard? thats the way i would fix out a bad wall ove here.

 

[Rob Z]

Hi Charlie,

I should make it clear that I am not on those videos---those are done by a tile setter I know via another tile forum that's based in the US.

I was stumped for a minute, thinking about why no one here would "dot and dab" boards onto the wall...then I remembered that you have so much block construction there, whereas we are mostly stick-framed. The tradition has been for more than a hundred years to float mortar over metal or wood lath. The closest I have ever come to doing things the way you guys do it is when I have done a few basement showers, and I bonded Wedi board over the block with thinset.

I have some pictures somewhere that show the whole process, start to finish, from installing the paper, the lath, setting the float strips, mixing the mud, and so forth. I'll try to get those organized and post them here in the site.

 

[The Legend; Phil Hobson RIP]

Rob stick to your guns, if it ain't broke don't fix it. Sand and cement render/mud float, beats plasterboard dot and dab hands down. Every time, always did, always will. Plasterboard vs, Mud, no contest

 

[Scott]

Im sure that some of our blocks cant be rendered though? Thermalites etc, major suction form them babies!