Discuss Some Help For A Newbie! in the British & UK Tiling Forum area at TilersForums.com.

P

philipdayton

Hi all,

I'm just about to start work on my bathroom. I'm basically going to gut it and start from scratch.
I've heard much conflicting advive on how to go about tiling on floorboards and would like some help.
I've bought the tiles from Wickes (Luna Modular Porcelain) now some diy sites say remove floorboards and tile on 18mm/24mm WBP ply some say just tile on boards if sound!
Judging by the state on the rest of the boards in the house i would imagine that there may well be gaps between the boards in places so i am thinking that tiling directly onto the boards will be a no-goer.
I don't really want to take up the boards as they pass under a stud wall perpendicular to it and i don't know how i will cut them close to the wall.
is it OK to overboard with 6mm ply?

Any advice would be greatly received:)
 
G

GazTech

Hi all,

I'm just about to start work on my bathroom. I'm basically going to gut it and start from scratch.
I've heard much conflicting advive on how to go about tiling on floorboards and would like some help.
I've bought the tiles from Wickes (Luna Modular Porcelain) now some diy sites say remove floorboards and tile on 18mm/24mm WBP ply some say just tile on boards if sound!
Judging by the state on the rest of the boards in the house i would imagine that there may well be gaps between the boards in places so i am thinking that tiling directly onto the boards will be a no-goer.
I don't really want to take up the boards as they pass under a stud wall perpendicular to it and i don't know how i will cut them close to the wall.
is it OK to overboard with 6mm ply?

Any advice would be greatly received:)
6mm cement based backer board..screwed down @ 200mm centres.then 2 part flexible adhesive and wide joint grout with GT1 polymer added is the best job..all available from Topps...Gaz
BAL Fastflex Powder & Liquid
fastflex.jpg
A two part, rapid-setting, sulphate-resistant, water-resistant and frost-resistant floor tile adhesive and isolating, anti-fracture underlay, suitable for use in interior and exterior locations. Suitable for fixing ceramic floor and porcelain tiles and mosaics (including fully vitrified), dark natural stone and slate. Suitable for use on tile backer boards, glazed tiles, concrete bases, cement:sand screeds, tongue & groove floorboarding, plywood overlay, floating plywood/chipboard floors, ceramic/quarry tile/terrazzo/hard natural stone bases, vinyl tiles/sheet, mastic asphalt, steel, glass reinforced polyester (GRP), steel and galvanised steel. Conforms to BS EN 12004, Type C, Class 1F.



BAL Wide Joint Grout
wide_joint_grout.jpg
A water-resistant, frost-resistant cement-based powder grout designed for grouting ceramic floor tiles, mosaics, quarries etc. Also suitable for use on walls. Not recommended for soft glazed wall tiles, or tiles with metal decor or lustre. Suitable for use in interior and exterior locations in both wet and dry conditions. Suitable for swimming pools. Conforms to BS EN 13888, Type C, Class G1.

NOTE: The physical properties of BAL WIDE JOINT GROUT can be enhanced by the addition of BAL ADMIX GT1. The polymer admixture imparts flexibility, increases adhesion and reduces the water permeability thus widening the application possibilities of the grout, with a classification of BS EN 13888, Type C, Class G2.
BAL Admix GT1
admix_gt.jpg
A polymer additive for BAL cement-based grouts. Not for use with adhesives. The addition of BAL ADMIX GT1 greatly improves the physical properties and characteristics of the grout.

• Increased mechanical strength.
• Increased flexural strength and flexibility.
• Reduced water permeability.
HardieBacker™ 1/4'' Cement Board, with EZ Grid® Technology


HardieBacker™ 1/4'' Cement Board, with EZ Grid® Technology, for floors and countertops is America´s best selling 1/4'' board. It's the solution you can trust for your wet area floors, walls, ceilings, and countertops. This no-mesh board is the lightest cement board available and cuts easily, even in tight, awkward spaces.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
U

Unregistered

Thanks for all the advice. The cement board is a result..really didnt want to raise the floor level too much as i've just had new carpets laid and i dont want to mess around with thresholds. 6mm is much better than 18mm.

Would you reccomend doing the whole floor with the cement board? what i mean is under the bath, even though i'm not tiling under there?

How much is the board m2?

Thanks again
Phil
 
G

GazTech

Gaz why would you use 2 part flex as apposed to 1 part ? is this because of the 6mm backer or just preference ?
single part is not suitable onto 6mm boards when onto T&G....10mm boards minimum for guarantee....single part however is ok onto 6mm boards if onto chipboard flooring....Gaz
 
Last edited by a moderator:
P

philipdayton

and take them tiles back to wickes and get some proper ones from a proper tile shop! e.g. topps!

What,... and pay more? don't get me wrong i'm no proffesional tiler but all the tiles are manufactured by Johnson and were cheaper than equivalents in so called proper tile shops:wink_smile:
 
D

DHTiling

Use an adhesive that is suited to fixing porcelain tiles ( porcel bond or flexible will do )..Use water in your electric cutter and if unglazed porcelain then use a suitable penetrating sealer for easy cleaning and maintenance....plus use a flexible grout because normal setting grout doesn't adhere to the tiles sides......dave..
 

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Which tile adhesive brand did you use most this year?

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  • Other (any other brand not listed)

    Votes: 17 10.2%
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