Spacer size and pattern

[mercedism]

I am going to be laying some 333x333x8mm porcies. I haven't worked out a pattern yet as i am still strengthening the plywood floor.

Room is 8 - 8.5ft wide and 24ft long.

What size spacers would you recommend. and any specific pattern that you think would look good. I have extra tiles, so might as well use them if it looks good.

 

[DHTiling]

Is the room gong to be left open plan or shall you be installing units or summit..

A half tile border/frame looks good with a diamond 45dg field tiles set within this.

 

[mercedism]

Foooooooooool........

My mistake, its a kitchen. Units will mostly be down one side as its quite narrow, probably a table at the end.

Room has been completely gutted, plumber is just moving all pipes above floor level. Plan is to go wall to wall, then skirting will sit on top.

 

[DHTiling]

You could still set a pattern to suit within the units...

This could be diamond set or brickbond set or even staggered set or just straight forward in line set...

Brickbond or straight set would be the easiest to do with no units in..

 

[mercedism]

Thats the only worry, if for any reason i change the kitchen or add extra units it may look odd. When plumber has finished as hes got tools on the floor, i think i will crack some open and play around, as i know where the kitchen will sit out too.

What size spacers??? as i can start trying to get the bits i am going to need.

I will be using a flexible adhesive and a flexible grout, so would a wider gap be more suited or smaller for floors that may flex.

 

[DHTiling]

There should be minimal flexi in the floor and the min joint is 2mm upto what ever width the grout can cope with...

Is the floor onto joists..?

 

[mercedism]

Just checked, its 400 centres along joists but will also be spanning across concrete too.

 

[DHTiling]

Mixed substrates??... this is different prep...

Have you got a pic of the floor please..?

 

[Time's Ran Out]

A lot depends on how important you require the floor to look.
If the room is only 8/8.5 feet that means by the time you put your units in down one side you will only have about 6/6.5 feet of flooring visible - that is approx 6 tiles!
However as it is also 24 feet long - and I'am assuming this is the length that you will be looking down - You would be advised to break up this long joint line with some diagonal/broken bond design.
I would suggest a joint of 2/3mm but only if your tiles are of a uniform quality and you are confident in maintaining a straight line.
If you have extra tiles are they all the same tile/colour of would this allow you to be more dramatic in your overall approach to the floor design.
As previously asked what is/will be the contruction of your floor prior to tiling and are you aware of the adhesives and grout that will be required for a timber substrate

Timeless John.

 

[mercedism]

me as a guest

correct john it will only have a few showing as the longest length is down the room. I haven't opened the box yet but is it harder to keep the gap good if its smaller or larger then. I have extra tiles all the same, so no colour variation.

Construction is now going to be ply after doing some more reading on here as a member. (for the joisted side).

just taken some pictures, just reading up how to get them on here

upandrunning.

helpme

 

[DHTiling]

Ok..so you understand about the mixed substrate and prep needed etc....

It is easier now you have joined to get faster replys...as then your posts don't need to be approved all the time and it's nicer for us to see a member name ...

 

[mercedism]

Much better being a member. This is going to be like one of them movies where a trained pilot talks a passenger how to land the plane.

I have done some reading and going for 18mm ply now. I will be reinforcing the floor as i go along. I will be opting for half size sheets of ply. This because of the narrowness of the room it will be easier for me to manouvre them on my own and make sure they are securely down. Anything wrong so far???

 

[DHTiling]

Right for speed here is the said pics of your floor...it will make it easier for the members to see them here.

 

[Bolter]

Yep basically fix the floor boards so there is no movement. Fix then the 18mm ply or tile backer board and prime it well with a suitable primer. Do not use PVA please.

If the ply floor is higher than the concrete substrate you will maybe need to use Self Levelling Compound (latex powder and white liquid combo) to raise the floor to the same height, or if its that much deeper, you can tile the floor using any old tiles you may have knocking around, and then tile new floor on top. Use a powdered flexi adhesive for this.

Where the two floors join, you may need to use an expansion joint as there is likely to be movement. You may want to consider using some ditra matting on the ply. Research into this yourself though.

Best of luck! If you get stuck, ask on here!

edit: ditra matting is called a decoupling membrane I think? Someone want to back me up?

edit2: more info here http://www.tilersforums.com/tilers-forums-arms/14730-understanding-tiling-shift.html

 

[mercedism]

The level the ply sits at will be the level the screed is being done too. 50mm. So hopefully it will be one continuous level. The expansion joint, will this sit between the screed and the joists or does it go between the tiles? this is where i am getting stuck.

Can't use ditra matting as i don't have the height in the room, so its got to be straight adhesive. Even went for 8mm tiles to keep it low as poss.

Should i butt the ply up as tight as i can against the walls? or leave a small gap?