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Structural 22mm HardieFloor for Wetroom

Discuss Structural 22mm HardieFloor for Wetroom in the Australia Tiling Forum area at TilersForums.com.

D

D-Eye-Wire

Hi all,

(I have tried looking but could not find this subject covered in another thread, if I am mistaken please point me to the correct thread and I will try to cancel this posting)

Replacing a small 3sqm washroom with a wetroom, and contemplating the use of Hardie's 22mm structural board HardieFloor (Structural Fibre Cement Interior Flooring - HardieFloor in a bid to achieve levelling with existing floorboards in the neighbouring room and the 22mm Impey WetDec former. Would most appreciate some advice with the following:

DOES ANYONE HAVE ANY EXPERIENCES TO SHARE OR RECOMMENDATION ON REGARDING THE PRODUCT AND PROPOSED APPLICATION?.

The plan is to:
  1. strengthen joist work (trimmers/noggins screwed with 10*4 or 12*4 Spax quality screws).
  2. lay insulation between joists ANY RECOMMENDATION ON WHICH INSULATION. 2a) Replace an existing AAV heading into the attic with a A1 AAV raised to 200mm above the highest wet entry's centre line - this AAV will fit within the joist space.
  3. Fix HardieFloor - (Spax quality 50mm screws at 100-200mm intervals, 25mm from T&G edges, 12mm from butt edges + gripfill type adhesive on joists and silicone sealant on T&G ends and screw heads).
  4. Apply tanking membrane (preparing HardieFloor according to chosen tanking system e.g. priming)- was planning on using Impey's Tilesafe but given its vertical tile load and heating limits I am looking for alternatives - perhaps Impey's Waterguard, I will be going through other threads on this forum to understand different tanking membranes.
  5. securely fix RCD protected UHT (compatible with the chosen tanking membrane) ANY RECOMMENDATIONS FOR UHT SYSTEMS?
  6. consider applying (depending on the robustness of the UHT mats) SLC for general floor area and slurry of rapid setting flexible tile adhesive on former tray.
  7. Lay tiles with flexible adhesive and grout that are compatible with the chosen membrane system.

ANY OTHER ADVICE or highlighting of MISSED STEPS WOULD BE APPRECIATED.

Given the small area I intend to waterproof full length of all walls. but as yet have not decided on which route to take. e.g. hardie or aquapanel with membrane or Wedi/Marmox setup.

THANKS IN ADVANCE
 
O

Old Mod

Given the amount of research u've obviously done coupled with your intended method statement, Schluter Systems I feel would best suit your requirements.
They manufacture complete wetroom systems including intergrated UFH in the form of Ditra Heat UFH
This is a system that is laid within its own decoupling mat which also serves as a waterproof membrane when the joints are sealed correctly with Kerdi Keba tape and Kerdi Coll adhesive.
It also dispenses with the use of an SLC (levelling compound)
The walls can be fitted with Kerdi Board, a lightweight building & tile backer board available in thicknesses from 5-50mm which can be used to form a bonded waterproof substrate.
They obviously manufacture complimentary shower trays and drains, whether you require standard, tileable or linear type drains.
It's your one stop wetroom supplier, which also happens to be the very highest of quality and very user friendly, designed by Tilers for Tilers
Here are some references.
http://www.schluter.com/media/datasheets/ditra-heat_eng.pdf
http://www.schluter.co.uk/media/schlueter_db_8_1_kerdi_uk_0913.pdf
Broken Link Removed Cautionary Note: This adhesive is more rapid than Hussain Bolt!
Mixing in smaller measured amounts is an advantage.
http://www.schluter.com/media/datasheets/kerdi-board_eng.pdf
http://www.schluter.com/media/ShowerBrochure-ENG07.pdf
[DLMURL]http://www.schluter.co.uk/media/schlueter_db_8_6_kerdi_shower_uk_1012.pdf[/DLMURL]
 
Last edited by a moderator:
P

p4ulo

Hi.
I did almost the exact same job about 6 months ago, and it was the first time I did a wet-room.
I used a SCHLUTER KERDI SHOWER kit, I was extremely lucky, and I got a full shower system, including 2 piece sloped tray, waste kit, kerdi sheeting and excellent instructions for £40 from EBAY. Kit should've been £400+.
I was very nervous, but it was an amazingly straightforward system to use, and cannot recommend it enough.
I installed it in a 2nd floor flat, with a concrete floor and a cast iron down pipe from an old toilet, as a result of the
t-junction's position I had to build the floor up approximately 10 inches / 25cms. I had to fabricate a step to allow for this height.

I made the subfloor out of chunky pieces of timber, drilled and screwed into floor and walls, overlayed twice each way to ensure strength and most importantly "no movement". Then, I stuffed all voids with cheap and nasty loft insulation wool (wear gloves, itchy sh1te!) because I was concerned the floor would sound hollow otherwise.
Then I used HARDIE 12mm Boards to create a new solid floor, massive over-amount of screws holding it all together, but better too many than not enough.
This then formed my base, which I then flexy addy'd down my schluter former onto. Because the floor space was larger than the former, I cut up a single sheet of ORBRY 40mm to fill in the gaps.
I then carried on the rest of the Schluter process.
I needed to buy some extra Kerdi sheet, which I was able to get per Metre from Lilley Stone and Tile at a really good price. If its your first one, definitely get the pre-formed corners to make the job easier.
6 months on, and the wetroom is awesome.

Pictures one day when I have some time!!
Good luck.
 
J

JamesHardie

Hello, your installation of HardieFloor is correct. It should be level with the neighbouring room and you will not need to install an overlay. HardieFloor will act as your structural floor and tile backerboard in one. It the 22mm thickness it comes in 2400x500, and 1200x500. we also offer a 19mm thickness in a sheet size of 2400x500. Can you please tell us if you proceeded with the job?

HardieFloor® Fibre Cement Structural Floor Tile Base
 
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