tile edge pro

[cromboy]

Hi all, firstly, thanks for all the guidance ref travertine. The job looked great. The question I have, is about the ali straight edges called 'tile edge pro'; I, like others would not trust the stickers to hold any decent weight of tiles BUT, I think they would be an asset when cutting in the bottom row. It takes me a while cutting and wedging to a drawn line (especially along the floor line). If these things stick ok, then it shouldn't it be quicker wedging up to the bottom edge of the ali channel. be good to hear more experienced tillers views on this, cheers Richie

 

[charlie1]

Hi Ritchie, over the years I have done it most ways, cutting first row in to laser datum, wooden battens but the best way IMO of starting to tile a wall is by using a spirit level as your batten. It's perfectly straight and true so no messing around with wedges on your first row. Lets say your tiling a wall 2.2m long, well I'd batten off using my 1.8 stabila and nail that whole section quickly, by the time you have got to the top then you can unscrew batten and move along to the .4m still to be done then your tiles on the section your unsupportive should have set.. Sometimes it can be a real pain in cutting in bottom row first because if the plywood has not been fitted close to the wall then you can have an issue propping the first tile up with a wedge.

 

[cromboy]

thanks for the wisdom charlie1. I take it you mainly use rapid set? Most of my work is domestic kitchens/bathrooms, and I've turned to slow set to minimise the amount of mixing/bucket washing, as usually no skip to dump it in. I still like the idea of sticking the ali channel, tile up to it (I use the little red wedges to prop tiles off bath/worktop etc) then simply pull it off and continue tiling up. as I usually cut/stick bottom row of tiles 1/2mm shy of datum then prop to my (hand held) level. I always find it awkward, and it takes me too much time, so this idea would prob speed me up. Also, there's no screws/plugs/dust/ pipes to hit etc . Cost is def an issue though!! Good luck to ya mate

 

[afright]

I use Rubi batten stands with a few different size spirit levels and use rapid.

 

[David - Tradetiler]

I would be very worried if I have a wall of heavy stone held up by some stickers and they dropped off all of a sudden. Much prefer the idea of the batten stands and a decent egde

BTW We just added some nice aluminium straight edges too (use the other way round as an 'I' section walls) Tilers Aluminium Straight Edge - 2.5m £21.99

 

[David - Tradetiler]

Ooops... that pic came out big

 

[ian158]

i use these adjustable shelving rods..they have holes that you can fix or nail to a wall..come in various sizes and can cut to lengths, got various lengths now..very light and dead straight. disregard the bracket the shelf lays on ..just the rod with the slots.

 

[cromboy]

Batten stands are no use if your working on the wall where the bath is located. I think these will earn their money 'IF' they stick well enough to cut the first row of tiles up to them.

 

[cromboy]

Yes, cheaper idea BUT, aggro of getting drill,plugs,screwdriver, dust from drilled holes and the risk of hidden pipes. The battens, shelving, etc are ok if you don't intend cutting the first row in and working up from them. I prefer to do this, so I don't have to come back to it. Always willing to learn from the pros, so thanks to everyone who has given their input.

 

[cromboy]

Hi ya. What about tiling the wall on which the bath is situated? Can't use stands there? When you do the domestic stuff and use rapid, don't you find it a pain to have to mix up lots of smaller mixes and wash out your buckets more often than if you used slow set? What do you do with the excess adhesive/dirty water (if there's no skip)? cheers for advice, always willing to learn from the experts

 

[charlie1]

The first row will need cutting in anyway mate, doesn't really save time, takes 2 mins to fix batten.

 

[ian158]

Hi ya. What about tiling the wall on which the bath is situated? Can't use stands there? When you do the domestic stuff and use rapid, don't you find it a pain to have to mix up lots of smaller mixes and wash out your buckets more often than if you used slow set? What do you do with the excess adhesive/dirty water (if there's no skip)? cheers for advice, always willing to learn from the experts

I only ever use rapid set on bathroom floors as i need to get toilet in for them to use same day, temporary, and kitchens sometimes if i want to be in and out same day..otherwise std set in bathrooms. If theres no skip you will need a few gorilla tubs to take away any waste, tiles, adhesive etc.

 

[ian158]

Hi ya. What about tiling the wall on which the bath is situated? Can't use stands there? When you do the domestic stuff and use rapid, don't you find it a pain to have to mix up lots of smaller mixes and wash out your buckets more often than if you used slow set? What do you do with the excess adhesive/dirty water (if there's no skip)? cheers for advice, always willing to learn from the experts

its all about setting out first, the first row above bath has to be cut in anyway, 9 out of 10 times, some bath lips are not always flat/square !!!.

 

[ian158]

Yes, cheaper idea BUT, aggro of getting drill,plugs,screwdriver, dust from drilled holes and the risk of hidden pipes. The battens, shelving, etc are ok if you don't intend cutting the first row in and working up from them. I prefer to do this, so I don't have to come back to it. Always willing to learn from the pros, so thanks to everyone who has given their input.

Sounds like your in too much of a rush !..how long does it take to drill and plug 3 holes along a 2 mt wall ?..shorter than setting out them stands id hazard a guess., as for the dust. your drilling 3 holes, not cutting a brickwall with a 9" grinder, if you want to catch the dust, put your dust pan underneath to catch the dust, or your henry hoover !. Im guessing you will have sheeted up the bath anyway, to prevent damage to bath while tiling ?

 

[cromboy]

I know where your coming from, but no drill, plugs, screws, hoover etc, IF these things stick as easy as they say!

 

[ian158]

I like it when it says "perfect for the now common practice of tiling on tiles" !

 

[cromboy]

yes ,I noted that, and that they put cut tiles under the channel to "add strength". I'd only use them as straight edge to cut the bottom row to instead of a datum line. Cost will prob outweigh the benefits for me.