Tile on Ecoscreed

[Lovell]

Hi Everyone

Has anyone tiled over or heard of a product called 'Ecoscreed'. If so any advice?

Thanks

LovellHi Everyone

Has anyone tiled over or heard of a product called 'Ecoscreed', if so any advice?

Thanks

Lovell

 

[Mike Mike]

Lovell, Which tyype of Ecoscreed are you referring to? Ecoscreed Code 6 M10 is cementious, so like any cementious SLC when it comes to tiling on.

M13 is calcium sulphate based so needs priming before tiling, and if likely to get wet, tanking.

 

[Lovell]

Thanks Swedish Mike

Here lie’s part of the problem. The Local Ecoscreed contractor has apparently put the rapid dry cementitious Code 6 M10 screed down, but the Client isn’t convinced as this product was at the time of installation out of stock (according to the Manufacturer).

The Client has read up on the difference between the cementitious M10 and calcium sulphate M13 screeds and is concerned that even small amounts of calcium sulphate in his mix will affect the durability of his finished floor.

Ardex have told me that their P51 primer can be used on both Cementitious (although not normally needed) and calcium sulphate screeds, so I am considering priming the floor as if it was a calcium sulphate floor, even if it turns out to be cement based!

The guys at Ardex have also told me that a calcium sulphate screed needs to be properly dry, else the cement based adhesive will react with the calcium sulphate screed and the tile bond will break down. I don’t want to do this twice, any advice.

Thanks

Lovell

 

[Ajax123]

If it is the calcium sulphate version check out post on the forums on prep for anhydrite. It will need to be dry, sanded, primed and tiled. I would look into the gypsum based tile adhesives available...... Norcross are about to introduce one now as well.

If it is the cment version treat it like sand cement screed but leave it longer to dry because it has more water in than semi dry

 

[Ian]

Moved to correct forum.

 

[Mike Mike]

Lovell, Ajax is right about surface prep. Take a rotary floor machine over it to sand any laitance off, hoover it and prime it but only once you (or your client) has taken moisture readings over the whole area for a couple of days and the RH is less than 75%. Moisture meters aren't that expensive, but if you don't have one, maybe suggest your client buys one (they sound keen to do this right, and without one, you cannot tell how dry the screed is).

Re gypsum based tile adhesive, I have never used it, and have a personal loathing for gypsum based materials, especially for use on floors. Is that stuff water stable when it gets wet??? Do you need to use epoxy resin grout with it???

It does all sound a bit odd though, that the contractor who laid the floor says it is Code 6 M10 but the customer thinks that was out of stock and they might have used M13. Ask the contractor if there is a difference in price between M10 and M13. If M13 costs more then it's DEFINITELY M10, because even if they were out of stock, they wouldn't have poured the dearer material and only charged for M10, LOL...

p.s. You don't have a moisture meter, here is a Heath Robinson test you can do:

Place a plastic sheet on the screed surface and fix it down with impermeable adhesive tape (like Gaffer tape). The next day you will find condensation on the underside if there is still moisture in the screed.