Tilers Tiling And Tiles

[TheWrightTiler]

Choosing Tiles​

Ceramic tiles are the most commonly used because they are functional and durable and in a lot of cases cheaper to buy, although natural stone tiles such as Granite, Marble, Slate, and Terracotta are also becoming increasingly more popular domestically, but please be aware with these type of tiles a greater skill and care is needed in preparation and laying. If laying on a wooden floor then I recommend at least a 9mm board with a flexible adhesive and grout. When tiling onto new plaster, at least 2 - 4 weeks should be given for the plaster to dry, this then requires priming. with plasterboard this should be primed at least twice and takes roughly 3 days to cure.

Be sure when buying your tiles you choose to suit your purpose. For example, some tile is sturdy enough that it can be installed outdoors in just about any climate. Other tile, however, is only strong enough for indoor floors or walls and countertops. So when choosing tile, it’s important to pick the right tile for the job. Note how the tiles are rated for slip-resistance. Heavily glazed tiles won't work very well in wet areas such as bathrooms, entryways and kitchens, as when wet they the surface becomes slippery and can cause accidents.

If the speed of the job is important, remember that larger tiles are quicker to install on average, but do remember they require the tiling surface to be extremely flat ( not more than 2mm out over 2 mtrs ). A rapid set adhesive can be used here, it is more expensive but dries quicker.

Tiles are very durable – so much that, depending on use, some types may last for the lifetime of the house. While picking something trendy, like glass or metal, might seem stylish at the time, it can also look outdated in a few years. Solid or lightly patterned tiles in neutral colours have a classic look and are easy to decorate around. High-sheen tiles easily show dust and dull footprints from people and pets. If you want your room to appear larger than it really is , pick large, light coloured tiles. Smaller, darker tiles make a space seem smaller and more intimate. Take home some sample tiles so you can get an idea of how they will look in your chosen room. Dry-lay (lay the tiles on the surface without adhesive) to see whether the colour and design work with the room's lighting. You can also test potential tiles to see if they are easy to clean and if they stain at all. Put pencil mark, felt tip, soil etc on the tile and rub it in, see if the tile stains or not. If it does it is probable that it will require sealing. White and light-colored grouts can be difficult to keep clean. This is especially true on floors. By choosing a darker grout you can save yourself lots of cleaning time.

Classifications of ceramic tiles​

Ceramic tiles are classified based on their water absorption levels as follows:
Non-vitreous: tiles with 7% or more water absorption and suited for indoor use only.
Semi-vitreous: tiles with between 3% and 7% water absorption and suited for indoor use only.
Vitreous: tiles with between 5% and 3% water absorption. They can be used in exterior areas unless where the freeze could cause tile crackling.
Impervious: tiles with less than 5% water absorption and as they are frost proof they can be used in exterior areas.

Selecting Tile.​

Selecting tile boils down to aesthetics and practicality. There are unlimited design possibilities. But before choosing a style, the homeowner should consider where it will be used (floor or wall, inside or outside) in order to ensure that the tile selected is appropriate.
.

Room Size​

Room size helps determine tile size. As larger homes have become more popular, so have larger tiles. Larger tiles tend to visually expand a smaller area, and unify a larger area. From a design standpoint, larger tiles also mean fewer grout lines and a more tailored, less busy look. However, in a small room, using a larger tile could result in numerous cuts and use of partial tiles, which can detract from the desired look.

Grout Colour​

Grout colour is one more opportunity for the homeowner to define their style: Matching the tile colour creates a more seamless floor. Complementing or accenting the tile with a shade slightly different from the colour of the tile adds depth to the tile design without creating a bold outline. Using a contrasting colour emphasizes the pattern created by the tile.

For centuries, tiles have been valued for their beauty and durability. In the ancient civilisations of Egypt, Greece and Rome, tiles were used as a functional material and as decoration in the houses of the most important citizens, as well as in public buildings such as baths and temples. The fact that often, when these buildings are excavated, the tiled floors are still intact is a testament to the durability of tiles.

Nowadays there's a massive variety of tiles to choose from, giving you countless options when it comes to putting your designs into action. People are choosing ceramic & natural stone tiles for many reasons:

​

SAFETY​

The tiles are very safe, they're non-flammable and don't conduct electricity.
They're hygienic, they don't attract or absorb dirt, and they're very easy to clean.
They're also healthy and ideal for those with asthma or allergies as they don't harbour dust, pollen, dust mites or cancer causing benzene from car fumes.

COMFORT


​

Tiles are very comfortable under foot.
They have thermal insulation and soundproofing qualities. They're not cold but actually absorb and retain heat, like mini storage heaters & are suitable for use with under floor heating.
They're also odour free and, unlike fabrics and carpets, they don't absorb odours nor do they provide a place for fleas to hide.

​

STYLE


​

Tiles look fantastic.
Nothing transforms a room quite like tiles, plus they'll add value to your home (if fitted professionally!)

​

COST


​

Tiles are no more expensive than many other wall and floor coverings. As tiles last for such a long time, looking almost exactly as they did when new, if you consider the cost over their design life, they're far cheaper than wallpaper, wood or carpet. They also have the added advantage that any damage can be repaired.

​

 

[TheWrightTiler]

for newbies part 2

The maximum weight of tiling which can be supported by a dry, well-adhered plaster background is 20kg/m². This is equivalent to ceramic tiles with a maximum thickness of 8mm plus tile adhesive or natural stone tiles with a maximum thickness of 7mm plus tile adhesive
The weight of tiling to a plasterboard background direct (without plaster skim) should not exceed 32kg/m². This is equivalent to a ceramic tile and adhesive with a maximum thickness of 12.5mm and natural stone and adhesive with a maximum thickness of 10mm.
It is important to emphasise that the weights quoted includes both the tile and adhesive.
Further advice should be sought either from the manufacturer, regarding the suitability of the adhesives and grouts and also guidance must be sought from board manufacturer regarding additional information on recommended methods for the installation of boards.
The following table offers general guidance to some common types of building board and the maximum recommended weights for tiling.

Wall SubstratesMaximum Weight of Tiling per m²

1. Gypsum Plaster20Kg/m²
2. Gypsum Plasterboard Direct (without a plaster skim) 32Kg/m²
3. Plywood (WBP)Up to 30Kg/m²
4. Lightweight Tilebacking Boards Up to 40Kg/m². Dependant upon the type and thickness of the board.
5. Glass reinforced Cement SheetsUp to 50kg/m², Dependant upon the type and thickness of the board.
6. Gypsum Fibre boardsApproximately 35- 40Kg/m²



Any timbered substrate for tiling is always problematic. What makes it difficult to tile effectively is that timber is particularly susceptible to movement caused by moisture. Most failures, where Schluter-Systems are called in as troubleshooters to solve the problem, are where tiles have been bonded directly to the timber substrate.

Technical Manager Ian Knifton says while certain tile adhesives will allow you to tile directly to timber, they don't always provide a total protection against the effects of movement.
Question.
I've been asked to put new tiles on to a timber base, where the existing tiles have cracked and become debonded.
How can I guarantee that the tiles in my installation don't suffer the same fate?
Answer.
Many failures occur at the joints, where the timber boards are abutted together, because you have differential movement between the two.
We've been on site on many occasions where we can tell from the tiled surface exactly where the board joints are, because the tiles have cracked above every joint.
To guarantee the integrity of your installation, first of all you'll need to verify that the timber substrate is capable of taking the weight.
If it needs to be strengthened, add extra noggins or support, or overply the substrate.
Then, the best way to prevent the transfer of stresses to the tiled surface, is to lay an uncoupling membrane.
Question.
I've been using a polyethylene membrane to uncouple tiles from cracked concrete screeds and green screeds -- can it be used on timber substrates as well?
Answer.
A membrane such as Schluter-DITRA, with its grid structure of square cavities, each cut back in a dovetail configuration, means it's effective in neutralising joints and differential movement in the timber substrate, ensuring stresses are not transferred to the tiled surface.
A recent example of how it solved a major problem on a timber substrate involved a large old house that was being renovated into flats.
The existing timber floor was simply planked floorboards, about an inch thick and eight inches wide, just butted together.
But in various places there were gaps between the boards of up to eight millimetres wide -- and the floor was about an inch out of level.
To plug the wider gaps between the boards, we used a proprietary filler, poured a fibre-reinforced self-levelling compound over the complete timber floor area; once that had hardened the next day the uncoupling membrane was applied, and then the tiles were laid on top.
The builders also wanted to install walk-in showers on the first floor -- and the membrane provided waterproofing protection, too.
Question.
The property has standard tongue and groove wooden flooring.
Is any similar preparation needed, or can I lay the membrane directly on top?
Answer.
As long as the substrate is capable of taking the weight of the tiled surface, the membrane can be applied directly to any existing timber -- including plywood and chipboard.
And even in older properties with butted planks, small gaps of around two millimetres between the joints can be successfully bridged with Schluter-DITRA without the need for fillers.
To fix the membrane, use a bonding adhesive that's appropriate for the individual timber substrate, and apply using a 3mm x 3mm, or 4mm x 4mm notched trowel.
The anchoring fleece on the underside must be fully engaged in the adhesive to provide a mechanical bond to the substrate.
Then set the tiles directly on top so the tile adhesive is mechanically anchored in the cut-back cavities of the matting.
Question.
As these membranes are so important in preventing tiling installations from failing should architects specify their use, or should we offer them to our clients?
Answer.
They are usually specifier-led in large commercial applications, but they're just as important in protecting tiles in the home, even though some installers don't include them in domestic jobs because they're worried it'll push the price up too much.
However, because their use will extend the life of the installation, and guarantee it against bulging, cracking and debonding, many installers are now including them in their price, and fully explain to their customers why they should be used.
----
Any timbered substrate for tiling is always problematic -- floors more so than walls. What makes it difficult to tile effectively is that timber is particularly susceptible to movement caused by moisture.
Most failures, where world market leader in tiling solutions, Schlüter-Systems, are called in as troubleshooters to solve the problem, are where tiles have been bonded directly to the timber substrate. While certain tile adhesives will allow you to tile directly to timber, they don’t always provide a total protection against the effects of movement.
A flooring contractor contacted Schlüter’s technical department recently to ask advice about a refurbishment project he was working on, which involved putting new tiles onto a timber base. The existing tiles had cracked and become debonded. He wanted to ensure that his installation didn’t suffer the same fate.
Many failures occur at the joints, where the timber boards are abutted together, because there is differential movement between the two. Schlüter’s technical team has been on site on many occasions where they can tell from the tiled surface exactly where the board joints are, because the tiles have cracked above every joint.
To guarantee the integrity of such installations, the first thing is to verify that the timber substrate is capable of taking the weight. If it needs to be strengthened, add extra noggins or support, or overply the substrate. Then, the best way to prevent the transfer of stresses to the tiled surface, is to lay an uncoupling membrane.
It neutralises joints and differential movement in the timber substrate, ensuring stresses are not transferred to the tiled surface.

 

[TheWrightTiler]

newbies pt 3

Typical problem of a bowed floor which must be made level prior to fixing the uncoupling membrane such as Schluter DITRA
A recent example of how it solved a major problem on a timber substrate involved a large old house that was being renovated into flats. The existing timber floor was simply planked floorboards, about an inch thick and eight inches wide, just butted together.

But in various places there were gaps between the boards of up to eight millimetres wide -- and the floor was about an inch out of level. To plug the wider gaps between the boards, the contractors used a proprietary filler, then poured a fibre-reinforced self-levelling compound over the complete timber floor area. Once that had hardened the next day, the uncoupling membrane was applied, and finally the tiles were laid on top.
As long as the substrate is capable of taking the weight of the tiled surface, the membrane can be applied directly to any existing timber -- including plywood and chipboard.
Laying Schlüter DITRA
And even in older properties with butted planks, small gaps of around two millimetres between the joints can be successfully bridged with membranes such as Schlüter®-DITRA without the need for fillers.

The contractors also needed to install walk-in showers on the first floor -- and the membrane provided waterproofing protection, too.
To fix the membrane, use a bonding adhesive that’s appropriate for the individual timber substrate. The anchoring fleece on the underside must be fully engaged in the adhesive to provide a mechanical bond to the substrate.
Then set the tiles directly on top so the tile adhesive is mechanically anchored in the cut-back cavities of the membrane.
Membranes are usually specifier-led in large commercial applications, but they’re just as important in protecting tiles in the home, even though some installers don’t include them in domestic jobs because they’re worried it’ll push the price up too much. However, because their use will extend the life of the installation, and guarantee it against bulging, cracking and debonding, many installers are now including them in their price, and fully explain to their customers why they should be used.

 

[TheWrightTiler]

newbies pt 4

There are several different types of tile ranging
From ceramic to granite, listed below are a couple of them

Ceramic / Porcelain

Ceramic and porcelain tiles are manufactured from clay and other materials through a firing process ceramic tiles are heat resistant and some are water resistant whereas porcelain are heat, water and frost resistant, they are both very hard tiles and are commonly used in all types of applications commercially and residentially for floors, walls, bathrooms, splash backs and also as accent pieces to enhance the overall design, they can also be used to create the correct look where there are budget restraints. Colours and mixed colours are now available as never before and tend to be consistent due to the well established manufacturing processes. Ceramic tiles can be glazed or unglazed. Glazed tiles are available plain or decorated and can be used on walls and floors. Unglazed ceramic floor tiles are more suited to commercial and industrial settings, but can be used in laundries and utility rooms. They are available with a non-slip profile.

Porcelain tiles are ceramic tiles, but with a very low absorbency. They are usually made from kaolin clays, feldspar, and silica and colouring oxides and are fired at about 1200oC. Porcelain tiles are hard wearing and can be used on walls or floors. Porcelain is a form of ceramic tile made from a very fine mix of clay and minerals far different from regular ceramics formed under extremely high pressure and fired at higher temperatures than standard ceramic tile. The result is a material that is stronger and more durable than standard ceramic and very resistant to moisture and stains. Superior porcelain tile is especially resistant to scratching, staining and fading, and it never needs sealing. Through-body porcelain tiles are colored throughout the entire tile, so there is little danger of colour loss due to wear.

Porcelain represents the best overall value in tile because it is, Available in various styles and faithfully replicates natural stone; Non-porous (unlike standard ceramic tile or natural stone); More durable and stain resistant than natural stone; and Significantly more affordable than natural stone.

Marble

Like Granite Marble is a naturally forming metamorphic rock formed originally from limestone and mostly consists of Calcium carbonate. White Marble has been seen down the centuries to produce sculptures some of which have become priceless, Marbles also come in a variety of colours and give kitchens, bathrooms, foyers and receptions the most stylish and elegant look. The characteristic veining found in marbles give them there unique look and among the most popular colours are the Carrera, Crema Marfil and Rojo Alicante. Marble is the epitome of luxury. For centuries this cool, almost translucent stone, with its rich veining, subtle patterning and often vivid colours, has featured in the most elegant, lavishly decorated interiors. Marble is a material for making a statement. It works well in the classic contrast of black and white tiling. Marble is generally hard-wearing, although colours and patterns can become dulled by abrasion and traffic. Slipperiness depends on the surface texture. For flooring, it is advisable to opt for a honed finish which obviously offers a better grip than high polish

Metamorphic stone such as marble originates from a natural change from one type of stone to another type through the mixture of heat, pressure, and minerals. The change may be a development of a crystalline formation, a texture change, or a colour change.

Marble: A recrystallized limestone that formed when the limestone softened from heat and pressure and recrystallized into marble where mineral changes occurred. The main consistency of marble is calcium and dolomite. Marble ranges in many colours and is usually heavily veined. Usually very sensitive to staining... Hardness rates from 2.5 to 5 on the MOH Scale. It is very important to begin taking care of marble both before installation and after with proper stone care products. Restoration is often required on neglected or improperly treated marble. Marble is very sensitive to both acid and alkali. Marble can be polished, honed, or tumbled. For tumbled marble the colour can be enhanced using a Stone Colour Enhancer.

Marble is classified into three categories:

1. Dolomite: If it has more than 40% magnesium carbonates.
* Does not provide a high polish; however, it is a very durable marble.

2. Magnesian: If it has between 5% and 40% magnesium carbonate.
* Usually provide a finish with less polish and reflectivity and are more durable than calcite marbles.

3. Calcite: If it has less than 5% magnesium carbonates.
* Calcite marbles provide the highest polish; however, they are more sensitive to acids and alkali chemical

 

[TheWrightTiler]

newbies pt5

Limestone

Limestone is a sedimentary rock with sandy deposits this stone is well known for capturing fossilized plants and animals which all adds to the character of finished tiles, they can be polished but are usually seen in a matte finish with neutral tones, the tiles can be used in all kinds of settings which include walls, fireplaces, floors, window cills and steps and is popular both commercially and residentially producing beautiful results. Limestone is much softer than granite. Most types are fairly light in tone, ranging from warm neutral shades of oatmeal and cloudy white to dappled blue; green and grey, but there are dark and near black varieties. Limestone is cool and elegant. Large, even flags work in classic or contemporary surroundings, lacking the more overt stylistic overtones of marble. Some limestone’s wear better than others. All types are porous but may be treated to prevent staining. Limestone does not resist acid chemicals and the harder types can be slippery when wet.

Sedimentary stone came from organic elements such as glaciers, rivers, wind, oceans, and plants. Tiny sedimentary pieces broke off from these elements and accumulated to form rock beds. They were bonded through millions of years of heat and pressure. Most sedimentary stones are extremely absorbent; therefore, they must be protected with Stone Sealing products and maintained properly with stone cleaning products.

Limestone: Mainly consists of calcite and some magnesium. It does not show much graining or crystalline structure. It has a smooth granular surface that is usually honed; however, some dense magnesium based limestone's can be polished. Varies in hardness. Common colours are black, grey, white, yellow or brown. It is more likely to stain than marble. Limestone is known to contain lime from sea water. Limestone is extremely popular due to its natural earth-tone colours that coordinate in any environment. It is very important to use products specifically designed to clean limestone such as: limestone cleaners and limestone sealers.

Granite

Granites are naturally formed stone from the cooling of magma typically from volcanoes and comes under the classification of Igneous rock it is one of the hardest rocks known to man but can produce the most stunning of finishes to an elegant bathroom, hotel foyer or company reception with subtle reflections of light coming from the naturally formed crystals within. Granites can be expensive but Agglomerate Granites can be a more economical option but still offering the high quality look and stunning finish. Granite is a coarse-grained rock comprising of feldspar, quartz and mica which give sit an attractive crystalline appearance. It is exceptionally hard, highly resistant to wear and chemicals, and impervious to water. However, choose with care as polished varieties may prove unacceptable slippery. Rougher textures are better for flooring; even more practical are granite setts, or paving stones which can be laid like brick. It is one of the most expensive types of stone, but tiles come at a fraction of the cost and weight. Tiles as thin as 7mm can be used on bathroom floors.

Igneous stones such as granite are mainly formed through volcanic material such as magma. Underneath the Earths surface, liquid magma cooled and solidified. Mineral gases and liquids penetrated into the stone and created new crystalline formations with various colours.

Granite: Primarily made of Quartz (35%), Feldspar (45%) and Potassium. Usually have darker colours. Granite contains very little calcite, if any. Provides a heavy crystalline and granular appearance with mineral grains. Granite is a very hard material and easier to maintain than marble, yet, it is still porous and will stain. There are different types of granite depending on the percentage mix of quartz, mica and feldspar. Black granite is known as Anthracite. It contains very little quartz and feldspar and has a different composition than true granite. Fined grained granites are often more absorbent than others; however, they are all extremely durable. Granites should be sealed to protect against water and oil-based Spills.

Mosaic

Everyone is familiar with Mosaics even our Children who produce the familiar pictures at school using coloured tiles to bring home for our enjoyment, the most popular places you see them is perhaps in the swimming pool whilst on a summer break, although mosaics have been around for centuries, having been found in Roman Britain, Greece, Turkey & Pompeii they are still as popular with architects and home owners alike. They can give lovely finish to hallway floors and kitchen and bathroom splash backs and simply as accents for the perfect finishing touch. Mosaics are very small tiles, usually less than 35cm2. Mosaics can be glazed or unglazed and made from porcelain, ceramic, glass or natural stone. Mosaic is true floor-level art. Small cubes bedded in mortar in decorative or geometric designs give mosaic an irresistible intricacy and delicacy. The scale of individual pieces and the variations of light catching on their surfaces create a gentle, almost blurred effect. Mosaic floors are hard, but their appearance is soft. Any size floor can be covered with mosaic, although in practice it tends to be used on a smaller scale, e.g. bathrooms. Mosaic shares many of the characteristics of other hard floors: durable, noisy and fairly cold. However, the natural key supplied by the myriad grouting joints means that mosaic is far less slippery than floors made of larger tiles or slabs of the same material.

Quarry

Quarry tiles are formed by an extrusion process from clay or natural shale they can be glazed or unglazed and are extremely durable and are often used in high traffic commercial areas such as bakers floors, petrol station floors and kitchens, but are also popular for kitchen and garage floors in the home. Quarry tiles are a traditional product made in the UK for hundreds of year. They are made from natural clay, squeezed through an extruding machine, and then fired. They are mostly available in terracotta, black and white colours.

Slate

Slate is a homogeneous, metamorphic rock formed by low pressure and temperature compared to some other metamorphic rocks, originally formed from a shale type sedimentary rock composed of volcanic ash or clay. Common uses for slate tiles are for both interior and exterior and are most commonly used in roofing applications although just as commonly now, for wall cladding, flooring and fire surrounds, sealants can be used after application to increase stain resistance, durability and to reduce effloresce. Tiles can be split very consistently to give a uniform thickness but this tends to be more expensive. Slate, like marble, is a metamorphic rock quarried in mountain regions all over the world. It comes in a range of beautifully dramatic colours – dark green, blue, blue-grey, red, purple and black – and tends to have a slick, wet look due to the high proportion of mica crystals layered through the stone. Slate is by no means inexpensive, but it is more reasonably priced than either granite or marble and has other considerably practical advantages. Unlike marble or limestone, most types of slate are waterproof, which makes it excellent for areas indoors which are likely to get wet. It is also very hard, wear-resistant and needs little in the way of after-care.

Terracotta

Unlike quarry tiles, terracotta tiles (both fired earth) are fired at lower temperatures generally being handmade and are a porous tile with a rustic look often effloresced which adds to the character, because of the porous nature of these tiles they are often sealed after application to add to the durability and finish and are used in a variety of settings both residential and commercial but are often at there best used to give a rustic country look. Terracotta tiles are also made from local clays. Terracotta means "cooked earth" and these products tend to be very absorbent, so need sealing when used on the floor.

Travertine

Travertine is a sedimentary rock of carbonate minerals usually made up of aragonite but is often primarily calcite from mineral spring or streams containing calcium carbonate deposits. Travertine can be found as a major building material in the Coliseum in Rome, the Basilica in Paris and the Getty centre in Los Angeles. Travertine in its purist form is white but the colours can vary to yellow and brown tints through the impurities found in the water from which it was formed. Travertine gives a beautiful finish to all kinds of applications both residential and commercial and is a common choice for architects used in flooring, walls and as a design accent to give an overall look with a stunning finish. Dense, banded rock composed of calcium carbonate. Formed by rapid chemical precipitation of calcium carbonate from solution in surface and ground waters, it is a variety of limestone that has a light colour and takes a good polish.

Glass

Glass tiles are becoming increasingly popular because of the vast array of colour finishes that can be achieved along with the surface finishes allowing the tile to refract light in all directions. These tiles are extremely durable and easy to keep clean and can be used in all kinds of applications both residential and commercial, applied to walls, splash backs, bathrooms or simply as accent pieces for the design look required. Many modern hotels and restaurants use these tiles because of the clean minimalist and sharp bright finishes that can be achieved.

 

[TheWrightTiler]

newbies pt6

SETTING OUT A ROOM

HEIGHT using measurements

Establish lowest point (bath) measure one full tile up
Mark line +2mm
spirit level line around whole room
measure the length of tile and add 1mm(grout gap)
Multiply the length of tile(+2mm) ten times and right down for each tile
BATH



Tile size 150mm x 150mm
TILE CALCULATION
152
304
456
608
760 etc
Measure from line to top of room to nearest full tile No. Now measure the off cut to the top of room. Then same to the bottom of room, checking you have decent size off cuts
Always try to keep bigger than 25mm (depending on size of tile)

WIDTHS using measurements

Measure the width of tile and add 2mm for grout gap
Start at centre of wall/window/basin/wc
Plan out using tiles on line to edges of walls/window/etc
Depending on focal points of room then ‘tweak’ positions for the best fit
If you have to have thin off cuts then put them in unnoticeable part of the room
Any borders will dictate the rest of the room, ALWAYS match borders in the corners
Do this to all walls


HEIGHT using tiles

Same as measurements but using a couple of tiles, place first tile at guestimated start point (see FRAMING WINDOW) and mark out top of tile, then using mark move tile upwards adding grout gap and mark wall at top of tile again, do this until you reach the top of room seeing what size off cut you will have at ceiling.

BATH



Now do the same across the room. If a window is in the way then frame window first. If not work from the centre of the room, moving start point until cuts are ‘equal’ in the corners, or the best you can achieve.
BATH



N.B Remember what is the ‘focal point’ of the room, each room will be different depending on layout. Also if tiling kitchens always start a full tile off the worktops and centre under cooker hoods/splash backs

 

[TheWrightTiler]

newbies pt7

some patterns and all the files in word format in 2 zip files

hope these help

andy

 

[b30 villain]

im pinching this for college cheers bud its a great read

 

[Polishtradesman]

Ceramic tiles are the most commonly used because they are functional and durable and in a lot of cases cheaper to buy, although natural stone tiles such as Granite, Marble, Slate, and Terracotta

terracotta is not a natural stone! or maybe in UK you call "terracotta" different thing??

 

[doug boardley]

I've always thought terracotta was earthenware clay to Bartek

 

[Polishtradesman]

I meant that terracotta is made by human, natural stone is made by nature.

 

[albyshellshear]

ok you have convinced me i will choose tiles :lol::lol::lol:

 

[TheWrightTiler]

good lad alby knew id convince ya lol

 

[DHTiling]

. If laying on a wooden floor then I recommend at least a 9mm board with a flexible adhesive and grout. When tiling onto new plaster, at least 2 - 4 weeks should be given for the plaster to dry, this then requires priming. with plasterboard this should be primed at least twice and takes roughly 3 days to cure.

Can you clarify on these bits...????

 

[Colour Republic]

Can you clarify on these bits...????

I think the second bit is referering to skimming over plasterboard (i.e three days for the plaster skim to dry, not the primer) but just not that well put across.

I'm not sure The Wright Tiler wrote the peice but is posting it for members benefit - some good info but not well explained in places

 

[doug boardley]

I was sat wtching the thread/post come up, if Andy was typing it he should be in a typing pool, super quick

 

[mikethetile]

theres a lot of work gone into the above posts

well done mate

i hate to to be picky

is 9mm ply enough to take the flex out of a wooden floor, would reccomending plastic ply to newbies be better

overlaying with ply was the best system available but if better products are developed specificaly for a job

wouldnt we be better to promote this

i have noticed a marked increase in ply prices over the last few years

coupled with a marked drop in quality of the ply

far eastern ply is compressing when screwed, not a small area where you drive the screw under the surface but saucer sized indents where the inner laminate is compressing under the stronger outer laminate

also voids in the inner laminates,

when you drive screws in you feel the difference , its like screwing plasterboard now

too heavy on the trigger and your through to the bottom laminate

this ply is unsuitable for overlaying floors as its likely to compress under the weight

this ply is turning up everywhere as decent ply is in short supply and very expensive

anyone who cant spot the difference could be storing up trouble for the future

i would reccomend not using ply for overboarding

 

[Colour Republic]

Some good points mates, This has been brought up a few times now not least by Dave in fact and i happen to agree. Timber is one of those materials that you cannot be sure where it came from, it's not like buying a branded product which you can know and trust, it comes from all over the world and the only way of telling is by have links to a local timber supplier who knows where his stock comes from rather than a national who may but from hundreds of sources. Ply isn't the problem it's the supply of good ply that is, as you say

 

[albyshellshear]

fantastic thread to all us learning the trade thanks verry much wrighty

 

[Dan]

Bump