Tiles Cracked On All Hardiebacker Joins

[Stef]

That is a strange one John.
I've still to go look at a floor that has a hairline crack in it.
Hardie fitted (not by me) then got informed it was getting a heat mat, I fitted this & slc.
Then they told me marble was being fitted, I told them to decouple but they wouldn't pay the extra for it & now there is a crack running the length of the bathroom.

 

[John Benton]

That is a strange one John.
I've still to go look at a floor that has a hairline crack in it.
Hardie fitted (not by me) then got informed it was getting a heat mat, I fitted this & slc.
Then they told me marble was being fitted, I told them to decouple but they wouldn't pay the extra for it & now there is a crack running the length of the bathroom.

Didn't investigate it any further other than replacing tile and that was a while ago and not heard anything back. No idea to this day how it got a crack in the middle of a board that only affected one tile

 

[Bathfix Bob]

Thanks for the replies guys, the floor was solid, with my floors I probably spend 70% of the time with the prep. Every floorboard screwed down with 50mm screws.

Since this I've started using the proper harie tape rather than plasterboard tape, there were 3mm gaps between the boards.

 

[Stef]

Thanks for the replies guys, the floor was solid, with my floors I probably spend 70% of the time with the prep. Every floorboard screwed down with 50mm screws.

Since this I've started using the proper harie tape rather than plasterboard tape, there were 3mm gaps between the boards.

I don't think you done anything wrong, I still think it's the tile.
Do you know the tile name or have pictures of them?
As I said I've used these "Floor" tiles & they aren't suitable for their intended use.

 

[John Benton]

I don't think you done anything wrong, I still think it's the tile.
Do you know the tile name or have pictures of them?
As I said I've used these "Floor" tiles & they aren't suitable for their intended use.

I fitted some of these ceramic tiles and before I did, the first thing I did after seeing them was read the box, that confirmed they were suitable for the floor, and then I rang the supplier to make sure they are happy that they would be fixed to a floor. Thirdly I did stress to the customer that they could fail and that I would not be held responsible. I did take photos all the way through the floor fixing installation as proof that they had a solid bed and tiles were back buttered. They haven't failed, yet!!!

 

[Bathfix Bob]

Its a shame, I'm not trying to get out of it or anything, I'm going back next month to sort it.

They are white ones with a non slip glaze.

 

[Unused Account 1]

Hi guys ,ive done maybe 500 floors on ply ,not one come back or problem ,all the new ideas good but seem to get more probs ,

 

[Time's Ran Out]

I've been tiling 43 years and today I've scrabbled a anhydrite screed, primed it with tile master 1:3 primer, fixed Ditra with tile master anhydrite adhesive and tomorrow we fix porcelain with a cement based adhesive - also by tile master.
Why - because that's the best way to do it. It's called progress and keeping up with technical advances in our trade.
I can count the no of issues I've had with floors on one hand since I started tiling, from sand /cement through ardion 90 admixes and now the all in one super adhesives of the 21st century.
It's just about doing the job right and not doing it because you've always done it that way.
Today's plywood isn't nearly as good as 30 years ago when that was the norm. 40 years ago I fixed quarry tiles with sand /cement on chicken mesh and waterproof building paper over t&g floorboards. 40 years ago I wasn't fixing limestone of 15-20mm to a new screed, with or without under floor heating.
Tiles crack for a reason. In this thread I believe it's the quality of the tile not being able to have the tensile strength to take a wooden substrate.
But what do I know.

 

[moomarine]

I agree that it is more likely the tiles. I also only use plasterboard tape and never had problems. The only thing I do different is use non flexible adhesive between the hardiebacker and the floorboards as I'm sure I read on the hardie website that ur supposed to use non flexi because it's to create a solid non flexible bed under the board and the main part designed to hold it down is the screws? Correct me if I'm wrong though?

 

[Bill]

I've been tiling 43 years and today I've scrabbled a anhydrite screed, primed it with tile master 1:3 primer, fixed Ditra with tile master anhydrite adhesive and tomorrow we fix porcelain with a cement based adhesive - also by tile master.
Why - because that's the best way to do it. It's called progress and keeping up with technical advances in our trade.
I can count the no of issues I've had with floors on one hand since I started tiling, from sand /cement through ardion 90 admixes and now the all in one super adhesives of the 21st century.
It's just about doing the job right and not doing it because you've always done it that way.
Today's plywood isn't nearly as good as 30 years ago when that was the norm. 40 years ago I fixed quarry tiles with sand /cement on chicken mesh and waterproof building paper over t&g floorboards. 40 years ago I wasn't fixing limestone of 15-20mm to a new screed, with or without under floor heating.
Tiles crack for a reason. In this thread I believe it's the quality of the tile not being able to have the tensile strength to take a wooden substrate.
But what do I know.

X7 and ardion 90 would still be hard to beat for sticking strength....I think I still have some stuck on my hands!