Discuss Tiling advice for beginners in the DIY Tiling Forum area at TilersForums.com.

Hello guys I’m looking for some advice
I will be attempting to redecorate my living room which will involve some tiling. This would be my first attempt at tiling. I’ve done significant research and would really like to attempt this project myself so would like to clarify if my approach is correct.

My Feature wall will be tiled using Marble tiles 60x30 cm 15mm thick using 10mm notch trowel and back butter all tiles and will be tiled directly to 12mm Hardie backer board on 4x2 Studs using bal rapid flex one adhesive. There will be 2mm grout joints and will use the levelling system with wedges. I will Seal the marble prior to grouting and will be using bal micromax 2 gout. Then seal tiles again and grout once cured all expansion gaps will be siliconed same colour as grout

There will be mitre cuts for tv inset and open fireplace with bio ethanol fire

I plan on cutting the marble using a rubi nd 200 Tile cutter upgrading diamond blade to a Marcrist CK850 200mm X 25.4/30mm

The floor will be 60x60 porcelain tiles 10mm thick. The sub floor however is T&G floorboards so my plan is to ensure all floor boards are rigid and screwed into joists put a bed of adhesive down laying 6mm hard backer board (laying in a brickwork patten)on the adhesive leaving 3mm expansion gap around the perimeter and between each boards and screwed into subfloor, I will Cover expansion gaps between boards with Hardie Tape Alkali-Resistant and the feather thin set 15mm wide covering the tape.
I will be Adding UFH mat On top of backer board and using same adhesive and grout as above

i will use VITREX 6, 10 & 20MM COMBINATION TROWEL 11 X 4¾" for floor to prevent any damage to the underfloor heating mat and back buttering all floor tiles. There will be 3mm grout joints and perimeter expansion joint siliconed. I will be using levelling system with wedges also

I plan on dry laying all floor tiles first to get good layout and cuts all done to ensure time is used productively once thin set has been made

This is pretty much the summary is there any info that could be added
Thanks in advance
 
Id be tempted to change the hardie on the floor to a foam backer board for the insulation properties, apart from that it sound like your good to go.
Thanks for the reply

I was looking into alternative flooring solutions such as the ditra membrane and UFH system they have but cost comparison was quite significant.
Hardie does state it’s compatible with UFH but I guess it’s not the most effective board to use to get full effect from the UFH.
I’ve come across Schluter Kerdi-Board to consider using on the floor question is would It be as effective as hardie with stability?

Adam
 
The hardie boards are a little more rigid but the floor should be solid anyway. I'm not sure how much more efficient the foam board will be with the ufh and even if you would notice the a difference by using it, it was just something that occured to me whilst reading through your plan ;)

Im sure you could find the thermal efficiency difference somewhere out there :)
 

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