Tiling Downwards

[mikethetile]

youve got it pretty much sussed Graham

when you have worked out your cut above the bath strike a line across to full wall workout full tiles down to your floor cut and fix a batten , tile up to your first full tile above your bathand fix your batten over your bath level with the top of your full wall tiles and tile away leaving only the cuts to do over the bath and to the floor

 

[hillhead]

:yikes:
If using batons as said above baton at joint above bottom cut which you should know from your measurements !!
baton around room and start to tile,when you get to bath level off from the top of the close tile and same at other end of bath ! hope this helps.
We all have different ways and as long as the end result is right that's what counts

 

[mikethetile]

great minds think alike Dan:lol:

 

[sstilingservice]

You could use rapid set to fix the first row of tiles along the bath wall. Tile up from that as normall then tile down to the first full tile then battern the rest of the walls from that hight and tile up.

 

[White Room]

Is there a parrot in here? lol

I think Mike has been looking over my shoulder while I'm typing:lol:

 

[mikethetile]

my eyesights not that good mark:lol:

 

[Dan]

great minds think alike Dan:lol:

I think Mike has been looking over my shoulder while I'm typing:lol:

I was going to ask if he used a gauge rod, but I didn't think to ask about the datum line per say. Then I saw you'd both said it, and at exactly the same time, haha.

 

[Richard Edwards]

I prefer to plan the whole wall floor to ceiling and bath level if required. then laser the first cut or s/level and set my cuts off the finished floor [I put the floor in first] and then work on up. No batons and I do not use offical tile spacers - ever. I use window fitters packers and reuse them.

Its just he way I work - always have and it comes into its own will very large format tiles like 1000x330 and 900x300mm etc

Richard

 

[Alan.P]

Use an adhesive that has plenty of body / grab, PCI nanolite is great, you can hang a 600 x 600 porcelain tile no problems, although I still like to use spacers.

 

[Dan]

I prefer to plan the whole wall floor to ceiling and bath level if required. then laser the first cut or s/level and set my cuts off the finished floor [I put the floor in first] and then work on up. No batons and I do not use offical tile spacers - ever. I use window fitters packers and reuse them.

Its just he way I work - always have and it comes into its own will very large format tiles like 1000x330 and 900x300mm etc

Richard

My old man's a window fitter, and he game me thousands. Used them a couple of times and then got a bit rough pulling one out once at height and the tile popped off (tubbed stuff, sorry guys - haha) and nearly hit the bath! - and I went straight back to spacers, which I'd still reuse 80% of them on every job.

 

[mikethetile]

:yikes:
If using batons as said above baton at joint above bottom cut which you should know from your measurements !!
baton around room and start to tile,when you get to bath level off from the top of the close tile and same at other end of bath ! hope this helps.
We all have different ways and as long as the end result is right that's what counts

your right Joe I didnt explain that bit right

you do things and then when it comes to explain to others you leave crucial detail out

well spotted Joe

 

[doug boardley]

I prefer to plan the whole wall floor to ceiling and bath level if required. then laser the first cut or s/level and set my cuts off the finished floor [I put the floor in first] and then work on up. No batons and I do not use offical tile spacers - ever. I use window fitters packers and reuse them.

Its just he way I work - always have and it comes into its own will very large format tiles like 1000x330 and 900x300mm etc

Richard

very similar way to myself Richard, altho' Longhorns never have glazing packers in any more

 

[The Legend; Phil Hobson RIP]

Is there a parrot in here? lol

There would have been three parrots in here, if I had found this earlier:lol:

 

[Ken Bruty]

I draw my line for the bottom course, whether cuts or full tiles, then I adjust them to correct the height with tile wedges, then you have your datum edge and off you go.

 

[Richard Edwards]

I draw my line for the bottom course, whether cuts or full tiles, then I adjust them to correct the height with tile wedges, then you have your datum edge and off you go.

I could not have put it better myself - :lol: