Tiling flush to doorway, no facing/architrave

[Julz77]

If you have a plastics supplier nearby you can get uPVC architieve, if you were after a maintenand free wetroom, no painting

Not liking the sound of the walls though. Bonded and two skim coats and it's dipping out by 10mm??

Some of its 15 mm!! its a nightmare.

uPVC would be soooooo much easier than this fannying about!

 

[macten]

I was going to post the same Allister.
I used them in my own bathroom after my architrave (MDF mind) started to bubble in a couple of places.
Now use it all the time in wet rooms or bathrooms with poor ventilation.

 

[Julz77]

i wouldnt tile out over the door frame , the vibrations fromt the door closing (or odd heated slam) will loosen the tiles

how close would you take it Alan? cust seems determined to have the 10mm trim...

 

[AliGage]

It's easy to cut and shape with a grinder too.

Are you going to be able to fix if the walls are that bad? What addy are you using? Most constraints are 20ish mm, Your going to be breakign limist once back buttered and packed out 15mm.

 

[macten]

15mm!
Seriously some of the jobs I've had of late make 15mm dips tiling heaven!

 

[kilty55]

hi julz,the 55mm cut will be fine lots of doorways are this tight to the wall that i have done its just the finished trim that wont look right imo on this one


check the straightness of the wall vertically at door edges and if large voids are there show the customer these will be highlighted by trim work when you flush the tiling off

 

[Julz77]

It's easy to cut and shape with a grinder too.

Are you going to be able to fix if the walls are that bad? What addy are you using? Most constraints are 20ish mm, Your going to be breakign limist once back buttered and packed out 15mm.

Its weber set plus, just checked at says its ok for up to 20mm in small areas. as its 15 mm dips here and there hoping it should be grand. not rapid set either so should have a bit of time to play around.

just annoyed as i offered to plaster the walls myself, would have saved time as i would have gotten them sorted. customer aint best pleased that she paid to have them sorted and there not.

just the tile trim round the door thats confusing me. suppose if its what she really wants ill just have to go for it

 

[Julz77]

hi julz,the 55mm cut will be fine lots of doorways are this tight to the wall that i have done its just the finished trim that wont look right imo on this one


check the straightness of the wall vertically at door edges and if large voids are there show the customer these will be


highlighted by trim work when you flush the tiling off

customer is in cyprus on hols, (least im 'home alone' to get on with it!)

plumber has also told her to use the tile trims so she fairly certain thats what she wants!

 

[Martino]

plumber has also told her to use the tile trims so she fairly certain thats what she wants!

LOL!!!!.......IMO it would look better with the tile but just make sure u tell her about movement....unless the doors frame has been concreted in it will move!....the grout will prob's crack and fall out around the frame area too!....but what can you do.....explain this and then its upto them!

 

[widler]

don't see why it would be a problem at all using a trim instead of arc,ive done it loads,looks much better than arc.
Leave the trim back near the inside edge,leaving a gap bigger than a joiner would with arc,or the same.
If a tile falls off because someone slams the door its not because the tile laps the timber by 2 or 3mm its just bad fixing

oh,and the plasterer is a bit rough,a good plasterer should always clean his woodwork and his electric boxers out:yes:

 

[Dave H]

Don't like the idea of tiling onto door frame, as Alan M says vibrations from door
closing may crack tiles, if client insists, I would use trim but set it back 5-10mm to give a margin all round that can be painted with frame, hinges then won't interfere.

 

[Julz77]

don't see why it would be a problem at all using a trim instead of arc,ive done it loads,looks much better than arc.
Leave the trim back near the inside edge,leaving a gap bigger than a joiner would with arc,or the same.
If a tile falls off because someone slams the door its not because the tile laps the timber by 2 or 3mm its just bad fixing

oh,and the plasterer is a bit rough,a good plasterer should always clean his woodwork and his electric boxers out:yes:

Thanks for that Wilder

defo a rough plasterer had a wee look at the nick of the window revel...will post pics in a minute

 

[Julz77]

its not even level :mad2: ....... the bit off wood is already cracked and (although highly unlikely in Scotland for at least 9 months..and even then only be for one day...) when the sun shines it hits the ledge directly...so a bit concerned about it expanding and cracking more....

 

[widler]

Thanks for that Wilder

defo a rough plasterer had a wee look at the nick of the window revel...will post pics in a minute

no worrys,it shouldnt be a problem if done right.
how a few mm of wood would make a difference is beyond me,your tile would possibly not even be on the wood by 2mm,your trim another mm,then another 4 or 5 to the edge.
besides,once you have chipped the plaster off the casing,you will have a good few mill clearance underneath the tile

 

[widler]

View attachment 46563 View attachment 46564


its not even level :mad2: ....... the bit off wood is already cracked and (although highly unlikely in Scotland for at least 9 months..and even then only be for one day...) when the sun shines it hits the ledge directly...so a bit concerned about it expanding and cracking more....

looks like you have plenty of room to plasterboard it mate,just screw some on