Discuss Tiling on a tilt - Concern re bathroom tiling in the Bathroom Tiling Advice area at TilersForums.com.

U

Unregistered

This is my first post on the forum and it is as a customer looking for advice. I hope this is acceptable, if not please excuse the intrusion.

We are having a bathroom renovated by a fitter who came recommended.

Due to mining subsidence our entire property is on a tilt from front to rear, floors, walls ceilings etc are generally square and flat, but not plumb or level in the direction of the tilt. As as result the floors cannot sensibly be leveled. The fitter was aware of this from the outset, and that he may need to flatten the screed on concrete floor, but could not level it.
After the old tiles were taken up the surface of the screed was very rough. The fitter smoothed the surface with ‘thick’ self leveling compound, this was done entirely by eye with a trowel, and whilst smooth was found to be far from flat such that it would be very difficult or impossible to lay the 600 x 300 porcelain floor tiles.

In an attempt to remedy this he then applied PVA and a neat cement mortar to the entire floor but concentrating on filling the low spots. This significantly improved the flatness, but a few days later we noted a small (50mm x 50mm x 1 - 2 mm thick) patch of the surface delaminating between the neat cement mortar, and the self leveling compound. The fitter easily scraped off more of the cement mortar extending the patch to perhaps 0.5m2. The self leveling compound was found to be entirely intact and well bonded to the screed, but the cement mortar came away cleanly from the leveling compound; there was little sign of any sound cement mortar.

The fitter said that he would fill the area already lifted with tile adhesive and that the rest of the floor would be fine when the tiles were laid and grouted. The tiles do seem to be solid at present but we are concerned that this may not be the case long term.

Two other issues of concern:

1. In the shower enclosure 600 x 300 ceramic tiles on two full height walls are fixed to HardieBacker 500 (12mm) board. Because the stripped breeze walls are rough and not flat the boards were dot and dab fixed to the breeze using BAL powdered adhesive with 9 additional screw fixings per board (but some of the fixings did not take because of the porous and friable nature of the breeze block).

2. Most of the bathroom tiles were fixed with adhesive applied to the wall using a squared trowel, and more on the back of the tile. Around the window (which suffers from some condensation) the tiles were dot and dab fixed onto dot and dab fixed moisture resistant plasterboard - the fitter said this was OK because the cut tiles were smaller (upto about 300 x 300).

The bathroom looks great, but we are concerned that because of these issues it may not stay that way. We have written to both HardieBacker, and BAL but as yet have had no response. The work is a major investment for us and any advice would be greatly appreciated.

GC
 
U

Unregistered

kitty55

Thank you for your response.

The fitter has not been paid, nor does he ask for any payment until after the work is complete. This issue is not about the money, it's about our confidence in the longevity of the work given what we believe may be departure from manufacturers instructions and good industry practice. The fitter gives a 1 year guarantee on his work, but our last bathroom was still in good condition after 20 years with none of the tiling problems seen so often on this forum.

We feel that the fitter may lack experience of fitting large profile tiles; he had originally intended to patch re-plaster the breeze walls or dot and dab MRPB to the shower area dependent on how the old tiles came off; he also intended to use ready mixed adhesive; we asked for the specification to be improved after a little online research including threads from this forum.

GC
 

AliGage

TF
Arms
Subscribed
I don't think hardie recommend dot and dab fixing of there boards do they? Dot and dab fixing of tiles isn't a suggested method of fixing either.
Id be quite concerned about the method used on fixing the hardie especially if the screws didn't take. 12mm boards are heavy enough as is without adding large format porcelain to it. Depending on the size of dabs used as well he may of exceeded recommended depths for the adhesive.
All in all its not sounding too positive from what you are describing.
 

gamma38

TF
485
1,058
Bedford
It sounds like your fears may have merit, the dot and dab method for the tiling is definitely a no no. As Ali says concerning the dot and dab hardie board, the weight issue there is not good. Breeze blocks are no good at the best of times for mechanical fixings, my preferred method is chemical fixing if you have to use mechanical fixings. That said i'm sure it could have been done another way, even plasterboard dot and dabbed then fully tanked out. The fact you had to tell him to source a suitable adhesive would have me a bit worried as well. Was he recommended or did you get him from the web etc??
 
U

Unregistered

AliGauge ... Thank you for your input. A short response I received from HardieBacker advised 'we do not warrant dot and dab installed Backerboards. This doesn't mean that what you have done won't work, we just can't warrant that application'

Gamma38 ... The fitter was recommended by a neighbour who recently had a bathroom fitted. As I said his work looks great; its the underlying issues that give us cause for concern.

Steve187... The neat cement was not stripped off beyond the 0.5m2 trial patch, the tiles were laid over it.



Thank you all for taking the time to respond.

GC
 

AliGage

TF
Arms
Subscribed
Confusing. Why would you not want to get it level? Its always advisable to mix as per instructions. Its not surprising it was uneven after laying. If it was applied thick the trowl would have dragged.
Without looking back im unsure of what stage you were at with it. My advise would be to remove the concrete layer and if the SLC is sound re-apply more as per instructions to get it smooth and as flat as possible.
 
U

Unregistered

AliGage. ... Thank you for the further advice - I presume you mean the neat cement layer? Unfortunately the floor tiling is now complete, so we have tiles laid on a thin layer of neat cement mortar that is not well bonded to the SLC below.

As per my original post - the whole property is on a tilt of about 2 cm/m due to coal mining subsidence, floors, walls, ceilings, doors, windows, fence posts, etc, ect. Neighbouring properties are similarly affected. The property is structurally sound, but anything installed level or plumb in the direction of the tilt looks rediculous.

GC
 
T

The Legend; Phil Hobson RIP

AliGage. ... Thank you for the further advice - I presume you mean the neat cement layer? Unfortunately the floor tiling is now complete, so we have tiles laid on a thin layer of neat cement mortar that is not well bonded to the SLC below.

As per my original post - the whole property is on a tilt of about 2 cm/m due to coal mining subsidence, floors, walls, ceilings, doors, windows, fence posts, etc, ect. Neighbouring properties are similarly affected. The property is structurally sound, but anything installed level or plumb in the direction of the tilt looks rediculous.

GC


Hi GC, anyone who uses neat portland cement on any substrate has no place in this industry imo. Neat cement needs a binder ie sand even when mixed with polymers it needs some depth, for me 50mm min or there is no strength to it.

The mention of PVA sums up this installation, it screams "cowboy" Sorry.
 

AliGage

TF
Arms
Subscribed
AliGage. ... Thank you for the further advice - I presume you mean the neat cement layer? Unfortunately the floor tiling is now complete, so we have tiles laid on a thin layer of neat cement mortar that is not well bonded to the SLC below.

As per my original post - the whole property is on a tilt of about 2 cm/m due to coal mining subsidence, floors, walls, ceilings, doors, windows, fence posts, etc, ect. Neighbouring properties are similarly affected. The property is structurally sound, but anything installed level or plumb in the direction of the tilt looks rediculous.

GC

This is one of those jobs where I really think you need to be stood infront of it.
How "rough" was the original substrate? If flat-ish but sloping maybe a backer board or insulation board would of been the way to go, rather than the SLC route.

I'm getting really confused here. What is it you're asking? Or wanting advice on?
 
U

Unregistered

AliGage

I too wish one of the forum advisors had been 'stood in front of the job'!

I think I have the advice in terms of the floor tiling in your previous reply :

My advise would be to remove the concrete layer and if the SLC is sound re-apply more as per instructions to get it smooth and as flat as possible.

Thank You.

My present dilemma is that the tiling is now complete and furniture fitted. The tiles were fitted to the base as it is shown in the photograph in the thread above. The SLC was sound as determined from excavation of the deeper exploratory hole (shown filled with wet cement mortar), but the thin neat cement mortar layer still covering the majority of the floor when the tiles were laid could easily be scraped off the SLC (with the scraper shown). Might I expect a reasonable service life from the tiled floor as fitted? Do I rely on the advice of the fitter that it will be OK, and his guarantee?, or do I insist that the tiles be lifted and the surface more properly prepared. The decision of course is mine, but the input of yourself and other forum members is very much valued and appreciated.

GC
 
This thread hasn't been replied to for 14 days, so replying to this one may not get a response. Post a new thread instead.

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