Discuss Tiling on a tilt - Concern re bathroom tiling in the Bathroom Tiling Advice area at TilersForums.com.

U

Unregistered

This is my first post on the forum and it is as a customer looking for advice. I hope this is acceptable, if not please excuse the intrusion.

We are having a bathroom renovated by a fitter who came recommended.

Due to mining subsidence our entire property is on a tilt from front to rear, floors, walls ceilings etc are generally square and flat, but not plumb or level in the direction of the tilt. As as result the floors cannot sensibly be leveled. The fitter was aware of this from the outset, and that he may need to flatten the screed on concrete floor, but could not level it.
After the old tiles were taken up the surface of the screed was very rough. The fitter smoothed the surface with ‘thick’ self leveling compound, this was done entirely by eye with a trowel, and whilst smooth was found to be far from flat such that it would be very difficult or impossible to lay the 600 x 300 porcelain floor tiles.

In an attempt to remedy this he then applied PVA and a neat cement mortar to the entire floor but concentrating on filling the low spots. This significantly improved the flatness, but a few days later we noted a small (50mm x 50mm x 1 - 2 mm thick) patch of the surface delaminating between the neat cement mortar, and the self leveling compound. The fitter easily scraped off more of the cement mortar extending the patch to perhaps 0.5m2. The self leveling compound was found to be entirely intact and well bonded to the screed, but the cement mortar came away cleanly from the leveling compound; there was little sign of any sound cement mortar.

The fitter said that he would fill the area already lifted with tile adhesive and that the rest of the floor would be fine when the tiles were laid and grouted. The tiles do seem to be solid at present but we are concerned that this may not be the case long term.

Two other issues of concern:

1. In the shower enclosure 600 x 300 ceramic tiles on two full height walls are fixed to HardieBacker 500 (12mm) board. Because the stripped breeze walls are rough and not flat the boards were dot and dab fixed to the breeze using BAL powdered adhesive with 9 additional screw fixings per board (but some of the fixings did not take because of the porous and friable nature of the breeze block).

2. Most of the bathroom tiles were fixed with adhesive applied to the wall using a squared trowel, and more on the back of the tile. Around the window (which suffers from some condensation) the tiles were dot and dab fixed onto dot and dab fixed moisture resistant plasterboard - the fitter said this was OK because the cut tiles were smaller (upto about 300 x 300).

The bathroom looks great, but we are concerned that because of these issues it may not stay that way. We have written to both HardieBacker, and BAL but as yet have had no response. The work is a major investment for us and any advice would be greatly appreciated.

GC
 
U

Unregistered

AliGage

I too wish one of the forum advisors had been 'stood in front of the job'!

I think I have the advice in terms of the floor tiling in your previous reply :

My advise would be to remove the concrete layer and if the SLC is sound re-apply more as per instructions to get it smooth and as flat as possible.

Thank You.

My present dilemma is that the tiling is now complete and furniture fitted. The tiles were fitted to the base as it is shown in the photograph in the thread above. The SLC was sound as determined from excavation of the deeper exploratory hole (shown filled with wet cement mortar), but the thin neat cement mortar layer still covering the majority of the floor when the tiles were laid could easily be scraped off the SLC (with the scraper shown). Might I expect a reasonable service life from the tiled floor as fitted? Do I rely on the advice of the fitter that it will be OK, and his guarantee?, or do I insist that the tiles be lifted and the surface more properly prepared. The decision of course is mine, but the input of yourself and other forum members is very much valued and appreciated.

GC
 

AliGage

TF
Esteemed
Arms
Subscribed
4,531
1,188
Peterborough, England
Im certain i replied to this last night. Can't remember everything i typed out now. Maybe had a weird tilersforums dream :what:

In short. If its not bonded then its not bonded. Can't see much guarantee if any that can be offered. The floor technically is already at a state of failure. Sorry
 

Reply to Tiling on a tilt - Concern re bathroom tiling in the Bathroom Tiling Advice area at TilersForums.com

Subscribe to Tilers Forums

There are similar tiling threads here

Hello, I'm just a home owner who doesn't have much experience with tiling but I'm looking for...
Replies
12
Views
3K
Hi I asked the Wunda technical department if I can just use a Ditra mat only and not the SLC...
Replies
12
Views
2K
Just seen Rocatex on uHeat.co.uk and thought hmmm that's a new one on me. Anybody used it yet...
Replies
3
Views
1K
I had a small leak in the main water line before the stop tap in my 1950s house. The copper pipe...
Replies
1
Views
2K
Hey everyone, I've been at a stall in my bathroom reno most of this year mainly due to work...
Replies
1
Views
2K

Advertisement

Thread Information

Title
Tiling on a tilt - Concern re bathroom tiling
Prefix
N/A
Forum
Bathroom Tiling Advice
Start date
Last reply date
Replies
17
Unsolved
--

Which tile adhesive brand did you use most this year?

  • Palace

    Votes: 5 4.6%
  • Kerakoll

    Votes: 8 7.3%
  • Ardex

    Votes: 6 5.5%
  • Mapei

    Votes: 30 27.5%
  • Ultra Tile

    Votes: 14 12.8%
  • BAL

    Votes: 28 25.7%
  • Wedi

    Votes: 3 2.8%
  • Benfer

    Votes: 2 1.8%
  • Tilemaster

    Votes: 19 17.4%
  • Weber

    Votes: 18 16.5%
  • Other (any other brand not listed)

    Votes: 13 11.9%
  • Nicobond

    Votes: 5 4.6%
  • Norcros

    Votes: 3 2.8%
  • Kelmore

    Votes: 1 0.9%
Top