Tiling on water resistant chipboard

[Ivan Rubery]

Hi AliGage, yes it did not clean up too bad surprisingly. It looks ok to me to put this decoupling mat straight on to it. I understand what you are saying about the height. I have put a tile on top of existing chipboard near the carpet and it is slightly above carpet now, if I were to ply over with 9MM it would raise it considerably. Experience and knowledge in this game pays big dividends, without this it can be a bit sressful. I hope that I learn from this experience when I go to look at similar jobs !!! I am so glad that I got on here before I started, as I am sure many people have gone down the wrong path only to return at a later date to fix issues. Thanks again

 

[Old Mod]

As @AliGage says ur floor must be clean and flat! It's an ultra thin product and needs full contact.
If u have any adhesive residue there, either sand it off or skim with slc first.

 

[Ivan Rubery]

Thankyou

 

[SJPurdy]

Brolliant advice, thanks very much.
1 more question, will the existing 18mm chipboard be strong enough if I use this anti fracture matting. The floor tiles are ceramic, 9mm thick and about 300mm square ?

I would ask the manufacturer of the matting that question; will they guarantee its suitability?

 

[Old Mod]

I would ask the manufacturer of the matting that question; will they guarantee its suitability?

Here Steve have a look at this mate.
Anti-fracture Matting for Floors Subject to Limited Movement | Tilemaster Adhesives

 

[AliGage]

@Ivan Rubery. No one is suggesting 9mm ply. It's both inadequate and doesn't confirm to standards.

I personally don't think a mat us the way forward here. I would still go with a 6mm hardie backer or equivalent glued and screwed. I think I'm right in thinking this will bring you just below carpet height. So finished floor will be around 8-10mm.
Hardly a step, more than reasonable. You can't, infact very rarely cam you get a tiled floor to finish bang on level with an existing, adjacent floor covering.

 

[Spare Tool]

Another option if the only thing stopping you fitting a backer board is the height of the carpet, pull back the carpet, prime and skim a small ramp out of tile adhesive thus lifting your carpet height, finish with a flat thresher strip..

 

[MW Smith Ceramics]

Hi there

I am new to this and I would just appreciate a little bit of advice. I have searched various forums and cement manufacturing companies who claim that chipboard flooring can be tiled on as long as the floor does not move, there are no gaps and that boards are screwed at 300MM intervals. I have looked at Tilemaster ultimate S2 flexible and it does appear to be for this kind of flooring.
The floor does feel quite solid and on top of the chipboard was 8MM plywood which had a vinyl on top. I had to remove the plywood as floor was too high, or would have been. This was cemented and screwed to the chipboard and was a lot of fun to remove !!!!!
I am in a dilemma as I told customer it could be done, however the thickness of the tiles are 9MM and I don't want to raise the floor any more as there will then be a step up to the bathroom.
My only other possible fix is to remove the 18MM chipboard flooring and replace with 18MM exterior grade plywood which would be quite a bit of work for me.
The floor is in an upstairs bathroom and rests on 400MM joists.
Please any help would be great

 

[MW Smith Ceramics]

Hi mate,

I always use Schluter ditra matting on good chipboard floors with very little or ideally no deflection stuck down with ardex AF200 but if there is too much movement there then I would definitely go with a 6 or 9mm backer board glued, screwed & taped and if there is a bit of a step coming into the room I always use some thin layers of underlay to create a bit of a ramp if need be.


Hope that helps

 

[Ivan Rubery]

Hi mate,

I always use Schluter ditra matting on good chipboard floors with very little or ideally no deflection stuck down with ardex AF200 but if there is too much movement there then I would definitely go with a 6 or 9mm backer board glued, screwed & taped and if there is a bit of a step coming into the room I always use some thin layers of underlay to create a bit of a ramp if need be.


Hope that helps

That's great advice.

I have had lots of different ideas on here and this has helped me a lot in deciding what I should now do. Thanks to all who have contributed to this thread.