Tiling onto angled part where wall meets ceiling

[Little5]

Hi

Im doing a job with 60x30 tiles and as the ceiling slopes at a part i will need to tile up to the flat ceiling.

I normally use Mapei addy, which should hold but is there any advice anyone wants to offer on how to do it.
Also as it will meet the ceiling not at normal 90 degrees, is there any advice on how to edge it, would trim look ok???

 

[brian c]

reverse the tile and put your wet cutter on the 45 degree and take the back off the tile.I would use a rapid set adhesive such as mapei kerraquick as you havent said if the tiles are porcelain or not and you havent told us the substrate which needs to be considered for weight issues also i would use a powdered adhesive for tiles that size anyway...dont use tubbed gear as it will take ages to dry if at all.

 

[Wylie]

I cut a mitre on the back of the tile where the wall meets the ceiling slope just to keep the joint neat don't no if that helps you

 

[brian c]

I cut a mitre on the back of the tile where the wall meets the ceiling slope just to keep the joint neat don't no if that helps you

thats what i said..lol

 

[Sean fsy]

not a very good pic but same kind of problem, having to mitre the back of tile:

also these days the tiles are to thick to sit on a shower tray (with the rear lip)and they stick over the edge so you have to mitre the back away also to let the tile sit back so it does not protrude over the edge.

 

[Wylie]

thats what i said..lol

You beat me to it:smilewinkgrin:

 

[brian c]

yes Wylie we must have posted at the same time m8

 

[Wylie]

Your job looks well

 

[Jelthetiler]

I don't use anything else but kerraflex nowadays (as has been already said a few posts up). Anyhow, my tip for angled wall/ceiling to flat ceiling is to PVA said angled area, then apply the thinnest coat of adhesive. When dry this will give immense grip when tiling, as no-one wants a 60x30 landing on their toes!

Taking the back edge off the tile is also the proper way but for safety's sake only use a machine with capabilities for cutting angles. I recently got to finish a job after the original tiler tried to cut angles moving the tile and not the machine. It got caught in the blade and chucked the tile up under his chin!

Jel

 

[Spud]

not a very good pic but same kind of problem, having to mitre the back of tile:

also these days the tiles are to thick to sit on a shower tray (with the rear lip)and they stick over the edge so you have to mitre the back away also to let the tile sit back so it does not protrude over the edge.

nice work sean

 

[Spud]

I don't use anything else but kerraflex nowadays (as has been already said a few posts up). Anyhow, my tip for angled wall/ceiling to flat ceiling is to PVA said angled area, then apply the thinnest coat of adhesive. When dry this will give immense grip when tiling, as no-one wants a 60x30 landing on their toes!

Taking the back edge off the tile is also the proper way but for safety's sake only use a machine with capabilities for cutting angles. I recently got to finish a job after the original tiler tried to cut angles moving the tile and not the machine. It got caught in the blade and chucked the tile up under his chin!

Jel

I am guessing you mean prime the area rather than pva

 

[Jelthetiler]

I am guessing you mean prime the area rather than pva

Hi Gary, i did mean PVA the area if it was bare plaster. Always have done, probably always will unless told/advised differently. Never had a tile come off a 'more than verticle' surface.
Thanks for the comment in my photo's.

Cheers, Jel

 

[brian c]

Jelthetiler,have a read at this as it might change your views.http://www.tilersforums.com/tile-ad...rsus-primers.html?highlight=pva+versus+primer

 

[borgie]

i thought nobody still uses pva?

 

[Spud]

i thought nobody still uses pva?

there are still adhesive manufacturers that specify using it, so there will still be a lot of tilers that still unwittingly use it