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Discuss Tiling onto Plywood in the British & UK Tiling Forum area at TilersForums.com.
I did.Anwer the Question Drew...Where does the water, we put into the powder go ?
Suppose the easiest way to answer this question is to put some of the stuff on a plaster wall and scrape it off straight way. If it leaves a stain on te wall as I suspect it would than water will disipate into the substrate to a certain extent, chemical reaction or not!I did.
Just like it does with cement based addy, it acts as the catalyst for a chemical reaction. it does NOT "dry out", it cures. And this stuff cures fast.
I suppose you also think that Concrete sets when all the water somehow dries up?
Why don't you just admit you were wrong, instead of scrapping the bottom of the barrel for reasons to still say you are right?
You should look at using Nicobond Unique when tiling onto plaster, or plasterboard. It's gypsum based, so no need to worry about any reactions.
It also sets full in 1 hour.
A decent proportion of water, we must agree does soak into the substances it makes contact with....it dosn't magically disappear, it defies laws of chemistry,if fast setting adhesives or plasters are used the water content needs to evaporate/dissipate, before totally cured.....so to grout them before proper set time, is to trap unwanted moisture......Gaz
this stuff could be handy....have you used it much, if so...how have you found it..Mark.
As I said above, around 40-60 mins, but only if you keep your bucket clean of old mixes.so whats the working time on unique? whats the cost as well?
i use it all the time but its not recommended for wet areas. i spoke to the main rep at a trade evening and he said it will be ok for domestic showers. great gear to use and holds large tiles up without battens. but beware you have to be pretty fast with it.
Kinda defeats the purpose of using Rapid set then.I did have times Drew where I would grout floors after fixing with rapid too early,this became a problem with the grout being tainted and drying patchy in colour, I wouldn't grout as soon as the tiles stopped moving I would grout the following day..but I would always err on the cautious side...it's in my nature...never one to fly in and out, if the job needed more time I would spend it,the next job would always be there ready for when I was.......Gaz
I always prime the walls, wet the back of the plasterboard before dotting out and fixing.The face is then ready to tile when board is set,prime the face for cement based,and not for tub gear.Rapid set for me , had the sole purpose of enabling people to walk over the floor sooner than slow set,or to enable you to fix tiles onto a batten to support tiles above, and then remove in faster time span complete tiling below....GazKinda defeats the purpose of using Rapid set then.
Why didn't you use the same cauton when using cement based addy to fix and fix to plasterboard?:huh2:
I always prime the walls, wet the back of the plasterboard before dotting out and fixing.The face is then ready to tile when board is set,prime the face for cement based,and not for tub gear.Rapid set for me , had the sole purpose of enabling people to walk over the floor sooner than slow set,or to enable you to fix tiles onto a batten to support tiles above, and then remove in faster time span complete tiling below....Gaz
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