Tiling round door problem.

[A1P]

Had a bathroom with walls in bad condition and totally out of alignment.Decided with the customer to have the walls completely boarded out with plasterboard sheets dot and dabbed.Job done well, all level.However I and customer were aware there would be a problem round door as door architrave very thin and board edge would overlap it by a noticable amount.Hoped to come up with some sort of edging although not happy about it.The problem is now worse as the door frame is well out of the vertical.I now have a protruding edge which tapers ARGH!!!There is so good solution but i would happy with suggestions to make the best of it.The customer doesnt want additional work to door.-cost.I thought maybe a hefty architrave might improve matters but not sure it would look good.

 

[macten]

Thicker Architrave is the way to go now. Will look fine as once tiled will not look out of place.

 

[Colour Republic]

I'm not sure this is possible. I never dot and dab a wall with a doorway in it for this very reason, nothing you can do easily is going to make it look natural.

If you must build the wall out then I would always do it in stud work so the recess is more pronounced and looks deliberate rather than trying to make up a small gap (but this can make a small room even smaller). The other option is to replace the door liner but the customer doesn't want the added cost so what are you to do?

 

[White Room]

the only thing I can think of is to build up the edge of the door frame with a planed wood to a thickness of the dry wall and tile, once your've tiled then put the architrave around the frame which will overlap onto the tiles

 

[DHTiling]

As above but step the architrave back 5mm from the infiller to add another profile so that the infill looks part of the moulding....

 

[Colour Republic]

the only thing I can think of is to build up the edge of the door frame with a planed wood to a thickness of the dry wall and tile, once your've tiled then put the architrave around the frame which will overlap onto the tiles

That would work but the only problem is that the paintwork would crack on the joint once the door had been used a couple of times

 

[White Room]

As Daves post

 

[simhopper]

We remove the lining, Replace in MDF cut with a plunge saw so the MDF sits at the same level as the surface of the tile, Then new facings sit\on top of the tile....Looks a pro finish and no risk of cracking

Works easily on outward opening doors...Inward openings require a little more work

 

[Colour Republic]

We remove the lining, Replace in MDF cut with a plunge saw so the MDF sits at the same level as the surface of the tile, Then new facings sit\on top of the tile....Looks a pro finish and no risk of cracking

Works easily on outward opening doors...Inward openings require a little more work

Are you suggesting replace the complete door liner with MDF? (I assume you use this material so you can cut to what every size you require) If so it would work but unfortunately hanging a door off MDF does have its problems 1) it is much harder to rebate a hinge in soft material like MDF and 2) Screws have a way of working them self’s lose from MDF when any sort of weight (such as a full sized door) is placed on them.

Not trying to argue with anybody here just putting a builder/decorator/joiners point of view across

 

[White Room]

A1P did say the customer dos'nt want the extra expense in changing the door frame

 

[simhopper]

Are you suggesting replace the complete door liner with MDF? (I assume you use this material so you can cut to what every size you require) If so it would work but unfortunately hanging a door off MDF does have its problems 1) it is much harder to rebate a hinge in soft material like MDF and 2) Screws have a way of working them self’s lose from MDF when any sort of weight (such as a full sized door) is placed on them.

Not trying to argue with anybody here just putting a builder/decorator/joiners point of view across

Yes just the liner and not the frame

Router works well on MDF

Longer screws

Cost wise it takes approx 1hr, On a normal bathroom job that takes 80hrs this is nothing in achieving a good finish

 

[simhopper]

A1P did say the customer dos'nt want the extra expense in changing the door frame

Frames and linings are NOT the same

 

[Dean G]

I would just extend existing frame with some Batten cut to size on a ripsaw then screwed and glued and when dry sand back, that joint will not crack any paint the tiles will fall off first :yikes:

 

[Colour Republic]

Yes just the liner and not the frame

Router works well on MDF
MDF eats router bits, but thats not the point and only minor

Longer screws
Sorry to disagree but longer screws won't always solve the problem, 9 times out of ten longer screws won't take hold of the substrate behind and if they do it is only paying lip service, the problem comes when the screws chew up the MDF in the first place, you might get away with it in the short term, even more so with a light weight door. But if I replace a door liner than I want to know that any door can be hung off it in the future. The bottom line is door liners are not made of MDF because of this reason and are not repairable

Cost wise it takes approx 1hr, On a normal bathroom job that takes 80hrs this is nothing in achieving a good finish
This point I agree with

Again not trying to argue but if you're going to do something (which I don't think in this instance the customer is going to pay anyway) then I would always make sure my changes are future proof

 

[Colour Republic]

I would just extend existing frame with some Batten cut to size on a ripsaw then screwed and glued and when dry sand back, that joint will not crack any paint the tiles will fall off first :yikes:

Ok I shut up in a minute:lol:

Again I disagree, it will crack. As I’m multi-trade I have to make sure that no part of my work falls down, or it's me sorting it out!

I often hear on here how another trade has messed something up only for you to be left with a problem to sort out, so it's only right that where possible you don't do the same.

What I will conceded is that adding a filler is probably the cheapest and easiest route and the side effects of hairline cracked paint with have to be accepted by the customer by way of saving money. The less of two evils as they say

I'll get off my box now

 

[A1P]

Thanks for all the suggestions.this bathroom was always going to be a nightmare.I wont go into the 40 degree wall which joins at the other side of the door!!!! Any thoughts about any possible edging strips which would not be too horrendous-probably clutching at straws.I think I saw a recommendation for Genesis? products on a thread.Not hopeful.

 

[Nardini]

Much as I might have used MDF in the past as a panacea for all ills, in this case I would give the MDF a miss - certainly on the hinge side. Use white pine that has been (old age, forgot the word) aged/cured/matured/... ((What IS that word!)) and rout the edge to the final trim. That makes it look very professional (exhibition bodge trick) and the timber keeps some strength in the hinge fixing. Prime and paint and it will look a million dollars - but without the bill to go with it. If you need a stained wood look, use real wood - if you need mahogany, use mahogany, etc. Hope it helps to know how the master bodgers would do it! LOL!

 

[Dean G]

We will have to agree to dis-agree other wise I'm gonna get a box :lol: