Tiling under Electric Shower

[Davesax]

Hi

On my first job since finishing course in Harlow and it's going to plan . It's a bathroom and I am removing the tiles in the shower . It has an electric power shower unit that i'm going to have to remove to tile under - I presume I have to turn the water off to remove it - and the electrics? I have left the old tiles under it for now and will have another look tomorrow .

Will there be a tap that is just for the shower , I don't really want to have to get a plumber in.

Any advice would be much appreciated, thanks

Dave

 

[Pac]

i am assuming you mean just an "electric shower" and NOT a "power shower". look in the fusebox, there should be a fuse/MCB that is stated "shower". if you shower has a pull/wall switch with a neon light on it, turn the switch on 1st to make sure that the light goes off when you turn the MCB off to it. to be 100% safe you should always check that the cable is dead with a proper tester, not a neon screwdriver.

the cold water pipe should have an isolation valve on but it is quite common to find they have been installed without one.

 

[Gazzer]

Do you have plumbing /Electrical qualifications ? Do you have public liability insurance? Water leaks can create a lot of damage and would probably finish your tiling days. Thiink wisely.

 

[Time's Ran Out]

If your removing tiles and are going to retile, there should be enough room by unscrewing the box to slide out (old tiles) and in with new tiles.
Always isolate the power to unit first and seal around unit on completion to stop water getting in after.
Behind the box is usually a water feed and an electric feed wire only and when removal of the front casing you will be able to locate these and the screw fixing holes which you will need to refix on completion..
Check that the unit is working before you work around it and then there is no excuse for it not to work after.

 

[mikebidd]

Just out of intrest if some one had no idea about electric or plumbing i.e me :yikes:
If it couldnt be worked around

Who would i ring a plumber or a sparky?

 

[Time's Ran Out]

I've never had one yet that wasn't fixed to the wall with 2/3 screws.
When you take them out the shower box will pull forward enough for the tile to slip in behind.
Unless the shower unit is being replaced neither a plumber nor electrician is required.

 

[puddle]

as said make double sure power isolated a main fuse box,electric shower will be off cold mains supply,so could turn mains stop valve off,there are some take cold supply from tank but are bigger units and have small pump inside
once water and power isolated removal not to hard
as said once screws removed,you may have room to tile behind without removing however make sure unit is supported as all plastic and you could easily damage water mains connection to shower
once done and if you silicon around unit,leave small gap at bottom,so any water that does get behind shower can get out
good luck :smile5:

 

[DHTiling]

good advice tony.

 

[Davesax]

Thanks very much all. i'm going to try your suggestions of making sure power supply is off , and tiling in behind with it pulled out the wall . Let you know how it goes.
Cheers

 

[Aston]

i had a problem with an electric shower last week..
i thought, do i do it myself and save £50 and then i just had visions of the kids getting electrocuted if i made a mistake!!!

the worst thing that can happen if you get the plumbing wrong, is water damage
get the electrics wrong and you kill someone!!!!!

not worth it,
ed

 

[Scott]

Dont silicone around the shower without checking the manufacturers instructions!

A lot of electric showers use the airspace behind the shower to keep it from over heating.

Good luck.

What ever you do dont just turn the power off at the pull cord/switch you MUST pull/isolate the fuse.

 

[diamondtiling]

Dont silicone around the shower without checking the manufacturers instructions!

A lot of electric showers use the airspace behind the shower to keep it from over heating.

Good luck.

What ever you do dont just turn the power off at the pull cord/switch you MUST pull/isolate the fuse.

Electric showers are encased in a plastic box with no vents or areas for cooling whatsoever. Thats the whole point of the plastic casing.
They do need to be siliconed around to prevent water getting in.

:smilewinkgrin:

 

[faithhealer]

Electric showers are encased in a plastic box with no vents or areas for cooling whatsoever. Thats the whole point of the plastic casing.
They do need to be siliconed around to prevent water getting in.

:smilewinkgrin:

For my two penneth, don't seal underneath, if water is getting in or it's leaking the water can get out instead of building up inside.

 

[Scott]

I didnt say there were vents, they require the airspace behind the unit to keep cool. Its an 8.5 KW heater, ie 3 times more than your average kettle and it needs to be kept cool.

I have fitted plenty of electric showers on my installations and all the ones i have fitted have stated not to be siliconed the unit to the wall. Hence why i said check the manufactureres instructions, Im not making this up for the good of my health you know

 

[Pac]

If your removing tiles and are going to retile, there should be enough room by unscrewing the box to slide out (old tiles) and in with new tiles.
Always isolate the power to unit first and seal around unit on completion to stop water getting in after.
Behind the box is usually a water feed and an electric feed wire only and when removal of the front casing you will be able to locate these and the screw fixing holes which you will need to refix on completion..
Check that the unit is working before you work around it and then there is no excuse for it not to work after.

sorry to disagree but you should never seal the shower unit to the tiles. if you do you trap the heat from the shower inside the unit.

i am a fully registered sparky with over 20 years in the trade and fit these all the time.

 

[Aston]

sorry to disagree but you should never seal the shower unit to the tiles. if you do you trap the heat from the shower inside the unit.

i am a fully registered sparky with over 20 years in the trade and fit these all the time.

i have to admit that every spark i have ever worked with during a bathroom conversion have all said the same DO NOT silicone around an electric shower unit...including the guy i worked with on monday and he has a company that solely fits electric showers.

 

[Davesax]

I isolated the shower fuse and slid the shower out and removed the tiles although it has been a little difficult to remove the old adhesive and level the substrate underneath to prepare for tiling - i'll cross that when i get to it. Tanking is also goignto be a little tricky , any tips would be appreciated .

I'd also like to ask , wouldn't water get in eventually through the water pipe hole if you didn't seal the top of the unit?

Thanks for the help guys.

 

[faithhealer]

I usually fill that hole with silicone anyway.

 

[Aston]

I usually fill that hole with silicone anyway.

me too

 

[Scott]

That hole is fine to silicone. The motor and electrics are postioned so that the water shouldnt be able to get onto it. Most have a little splash guard over the windings to keep them dry, although i have also seen people throw them away..:yikes: