Tling over suspended wooden floor

[Minton]

Hi all,

I recently knocked through our kitchen dining room. The floor is a suspended wooden ground floor (flat edge floor boards) in a 1930's bungalow.

I'm looking to lay 600 x 600 porcelain tiles, but I want to add as little as possible height to the floor as possible.

The floor seems very sturdy, with very little or no flex. I placed a brimmed glass of water on different parts of the floor and we walked and hopped around. There was minimal disturbance to the water (certainly no spillage)

With this in mind, do you think I could get away with just laying 6mm hardy backer boards (or similar) and then tiling on top.?

One other thing, there is a small height difference between the two rooms, the floor in the dining area is approx 3mm lower. Would the adhesive sort that kind of difference in levels.?

Thanks,

Matt (tiling newbie!)

 

[Mike]

if you're confident the floor is solid enough then you could just lay the 6mm hardi/cement boards with a spf adhesive and screwed every 150mm. i would also put extra screws in the floorboards first. you could put slc on the lower floor. (one suitable for timber floors)

 

[Minton]

Thanks Mike. Should I also seal the floor boards with something before laying the backing board.?

 

[Mike]

You'd best prime it with a suitable primer for wood, not pva and make sure its tacky or dry before laying the boards. I lay all the boards dry then lift and re lay one by one leaving a 3mm gap between boards and last I fill the joints with the adhesive and scrim tape them. Also stagger the boards like bricks

tapatalk on my HTC

 

[Minton]

Great, very helpful, thanks Mike!

 

[Minton]

What sort of grout gap (and grout, for that matter) would be best for 600 x 600 porcelain floor tiles, also which primer and Adhesive.?

I see Mapei are highly regarded but don't know where to start TBH...

By the way, the only thing I have purchased so far are the tiles, nothing else.

 

[kilty55]

mikes advice is great minton....i would do the same

can i ask haver you ever tiled before?

 

[Minton]

Only my splashbacks in my last kitchen, nothing complicated (hence all the questions!)

 

[kilty55]

honest opinion,a floor in 600s i would get a pro in if you want a good finish,dont mean to be negative

 

[Minton]

Cost is the killer though - I don't WANT to do it myself, but have little choice. How much would a 25sq/m area cost in the south of England.?

I do like a challenge too

 

[kilty55]

not sure on your local costs minton but you could post a job on here and ask for prices....

 

[Minton]

Kilty, can I ask why you don't think I could get a good finish. Is it the size of tile itself, or the amount of prep to the floor.?

 

[kilty55]

hi minton,laying 600 by 600 polished tiles as a 1st attempt at tiling imo wont look a pro job

it takes a long time to acheive the skill invloved to do these jobs and make them long lasting

i have no doubt you will be able to tile your floor im just saying if you are looking for a good finish then pay a tiler,polished porc is also dificult to work with minton

you will get all the advice you need on here if you want it to do your job if you want it however

 

[Minton]

Cheers Kilty, they are a satin finish but I guess the same applies. I doubt I could ever achieve the finish a pro could, but I hope with help I can make an acceptable job (unless I get a bonus, then I will be calling round the pros!)

Thanks for all the help so far.

 

[Mike]

as with kilty with those tiles, they're not easy to lay for a diy'er. for starters they will probably be very hard to cut and need sealing prior to grouting. i know you may not afford to employ a tiler but if the tiles aren't laid properly or you mess it up it could cost you more in the long run. if you do decide to attempt it yourself there will be plenty of help on here for you , good luck