To board or not to board - that is the question.

[TimM]

Having tiled my bathroom - onto chipboard - and boarded it out with ply first I am now looking to do my hall. We are looking for a cottage feel and so are using natural slate. It is about 8 metres in length with several twists and turns. I have decided that on this job I need a professional to ensure it is done right. The tiles will in the main be fixed to solid floorboards that are t&g, they are mostly in very good condition and have been down for some time. There is a small area of concrete screed. So far I have been told it needs overboarding with ply ( of varying thicknesses) , backer board 6mm depth and that neither is needed, using bal quickflex instead. I must admit being tempted by the quickflex option as it means less impact on height and also when you add in the costs of boarding (both material and time) it starts to look very tempting. Having had the fact that you always have to board out wooden floors beaten into me, I am hesitant about taking this route.

Any thoughts or advice please?

 

[faithhealer]

board it 100%
welcome to the forum

 

[kkoll]

Pardon the pun, but welcome on board! And yes I would also say board it, screwed at 300mm centres minimum and at least 15mm ply to ensure rigidity.

 

[doug boardley]

definitely overboard your T & G, make sure they are firmly screwed to joists first and that there is no deflection, ie "bounce" I'd overboard with hardibacker 250 for minimal height impact.

 

[TimM]

Thanks so far chaps. 2 for ply and one hardibacker.

I am a tall guy so the height issue is relevant - I already have to duck on several doors so the lower the solution the better.

No one seems keen on the quickflex option.

Nice taste in music Doug, although a little dark!

 

[aph257]

I'd use No More Ply

 

[doug boardley]

Thanks so far chaps. 2 for ply and one hardibacker.

I am a tall guy so the height issue is relevant - I already have to duck on several doors so the lower the solution the better.

No one seems keen on the quickflex option.

Nice taste in music Doug, although a little dark![/QUOTE]

lol, I didn't even post my goth stuff in my profile:lol:

 

[DHTiling]

Your over boarding is governed by the deflection in the sub-floor..

The more solid it is before hand ,then you can go the hardibacker 250 route..

 

[Ken Bruty]

woohoo!! fame at last Doug:lol:

 

[doug boardley]

Your over boarding is governed by t he deflection i n the sub-floor..

The more solid it is before hand ,then you can go the hardibacker 250 rote..

but hardie is no good for insulation is it, bearing in mind that Tim wants to have ufh

 

[DHTiling]

Not gunna loose a lot of heat on timber floors Doug..

 

[doug boardley]

Not gunna loose a lot of heat on timber floors Doug..

rrr:rrr:rrr::lol::lol:

 

[doug boardley]

woohoo!! fame at last Doug:lol:

:lol: if only for my taste in music:8:

 

[The Legend; Phil Hobson RIP]

Over board every time for me, any product that promotes' tiling directly onto t&g, is imo very bad:yikes::ban:

 

[doug boardley]

Your over boarding is governed by the deflection in the sub-floor..

The more solid it is before hand ,then you can go the hardibacker 250 route..

if you aim for zero deflection tho' Dave, (as you should), then surely an insulation board would be a better option in this case than hardie, especially as you can get ekoboard in 6mm thickness.