Discuss Toilet Troubles in the UK Tiling Forum area at TilersForums.com.

B

biffta

So I've had no luck finding a couple spare tiles to match the existing set, so looks like I'm gonna have to bite the bullet and redo the whole floor!

I've done my homework and know that I need to get some marine ply as it's wooden floorboards. I've started picking up some tools and have just about decided on the new tile to go down. However, I've still got some concerns. Top of the list is the toilet!

The current tiles do not go underneath the toilet but the videos I've watched on youtube largely suggest lifting the whole unit out and then plonking it down on top of the tiles afterwards. I think this looks easier than trying to cut the tiles all around it.

But if I were to lay the toilet on top of the new tiles, it would be at a higher level than is currently. Would that lead to potential issues with the connection into the waste pipe?

cheers!
 

AliGage

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Sorry to contradict everyone. But i would not suggest a flexible pan connector. A simple offset pan connector will do.

1st question that needs to be asked is wether the waste comes up through the floor or straight out the wall, or at 90 degrees from the point of connection. I.E along in boxing prehaps to a waste stack that's in the corner of your bathroom.

So to cover all scenarios:

A) Waste pipe comes up through the floor. You could get a flexible 90 pan connector. However, i can't see you raising the WC enough to warrent this type. Most normal 90 degree pan connectors are generally longer than required. Replace the pan connector of rone exactly the same.

B) Waste pipe goes through the wall. An offset pan connector will sort this one. Change for one of these. The offset will allow you around 1 1/4" to 1 1/2"

c) Waste comes from the side. Again a 90 degree pan connector will surfice.

I'm only saying all this because firstly a flexible pan connector is the most expensive option (about £20.00 diy, £14.00 trade). Also, if a flexible connector is not installed correctly it's prone to blockages. You don't need to use one, avoid any potential problems by going for the cheaper solution ;)

Hope that helps
 
B

biffta

Sorry to contradict everyone. But i would not suggest a flexible pan connector. A simple offset pan connector will do.
...

Hey Ali, thanks for the info. The waste pipe comes up through the floor so I guess that's option A.

Just to clarify, you suggesting that I try to re-use the existing one, see if it fits and if it doesn't get a similar one that does?

I've attached a picture of the pipe on the off chance it helps.

cheers.

42QPk.jpg
 

AliGage

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You're going to have to knock the concrete out to change the pan connector. Do it by hand though, and be careful not to hit the clay. You don't want that to fracture!
Once you get it out you should find the clay pipe will narrow. If you imagine the shape of an egg cup as it goes underground. A standard 90 degree pan connector will be fine. Depending on what plumbing stores you have near you will depend on what brand you can get. I always use McAlpine. This should fit into the narrow neck of the "egg cup".

Tile the floor and offer up the pan when dry and walkable. Try the pan connector first and cut it down to suit to ensure the seal goes fully into the soil pipe but not too far. Ideally you want to fit the pan connector so the flange goes fully in, remains on the end of the pan connector but is still visible at the neck of the waste. You'll find not adjusting the connector will mean pushing the connector too far into the soil waste and will push through the seal.
Once you're happy with the seal, toilet position etc cement up around the waste. You can then connect the toilet correctly, screwing to the floor etc once set.
 
B

biffta

WOW! I've got to be honest that sounds like potentially more than I'd bargained for. Do you think I will more likely than not actually need to do this? I mean what are the odds that I can get away with simply removing the bowl and having it fit back into place?

I know you guys take the michael out of this guy quite a bit but I was kind of hoping I could do what he does around 2mins...

How to Tile a Bathroom Floor - YouTube
 
Last edited by a moderator:

AliGage

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Blimey GirlRacerRed you were up early this morning!!

Biffta, what i would do personally if you didn't want to do what i suggested before, and i must admit the first time i took a hammer a balsta to cement and claypipe like this i was very very nervous. You crack the claypipe under ground and your looking at a lot of work and expense to recitify. We are talking worse case scenario.
However, you could try fitting the wc pan back after and see if it goes back. You have got about 3/4" on your pan connector. You could try gaining another half by working the pan connector up. Be gentle though and not too much, because if you pull it out and the seal comes off the end it'll be lost and you'll have to revert to breaking the cement as stated before. Or wear a peg on your nose each time you visit the little boys room.
IF - the wc pan doesn't go back on after tiling purchase an offset pan connector an a length of 2"x1". Install the offset pan connector straight into the current 90 degree and install the wc. The timber is to baton the cistern. The offset will pull it forward from the wall so screw the baton where your current cistern fixings are then screw the cistern to the baton.
This method can be a little unsightly, but if you paint the timber edges you'll barely notice it's there once you've finished.

Good luck, and if you need anymore help or advice just ask.
 

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