Toilet Troubles

[biffta]

dont use marine ply , use " no more ply" good price easy to cut, easy to transport, always lift toilet. you know it makes sense. good luck

Thanks, this seems pretty good stuff.

You have got about 3/4" on your pan connector. You could try gaining another half by working the pan connector up. Be gentle though and not too much

Could you explain a little more about working it up? Do you basically just mean rocking it back and forth?

IF - the wc pan doesn't go back on after tiling purchase an offset pan connector an a length of 2"x1". Install the offset pan connector straight into the current 90 degree and install the wc. The timber is to baton the cistern. The offset will pull it forward from the wall so screw the baton where your current cistern fixings are then screw the cistern to the baton.

Ok this seems to make sense. I'm guessing I'll need to get some sort of special sealant to fix it altogether with?

My main worry with this is that the water pipe comes up vertically from the floor and will need to be bent a little to reflect the new position of the cistern. I'm guessing this might be an issue as I've no experience (or tools) with copper pipes.

 

[Muse2k8]

AliGage has it spot on I'm afraid. Avoid flexible pan connectors (imagine poo passing through the concertina bit... Gonna stick!) and if it's an old stack it's going to take a bit extra work I'm afraid.

 

[Muse2k8]

Oh as for the cold water feed you can use a flexible tap connector for that. Just remember you need to add an isolator valve

 

[biffta]

Oh as for the cold water feed you can use a flexible tap connector for that. Just remember you need to add an isolator valve

These look ideal! But why do I need that valve out of interest?

 

[AliGage]

I believe (although i can't find anything to back this up online just yet) but building regulations require a ballofix/service valve to be fitted to WC feeds. I don't believe it is required on taps and other pipework you'll find in your bathroom. Please don't quote me as i've never seen nor can i find anything to confirm this.

As good practice though i fit isolators on all pipework when i do a new installations. For a few reasons:

- It provides my customer with piece of mind that they can isolate something if there's a problem.
- Little water supply disruption during installation.
- If there is an issue i can talk them through isolation over the phone and the issue doesn't become critical. I.E i can have a life rather than bein gon call 24/7
- During installation i may have to take items such as toilets in and out whilst working. An iso' saves the need for shutting off the main water.

In your instance with your project - you'll have a stroke of luck if you get that toilet installed without any minor water issues at all. Especially as you're trying to use an exsisting/old waste. Seals might not sit correctly, may get twisted etc. It's easier to isolate at the WC rather than running up and downstairs or maybe even out in the road to turn the water off.

I'm starting to waffle now. I just see it as making life easier and good practice to put them on all pipework runs. But as i say i've always been assured that one on the WC feed is required by a regulation or standard.

 

[Muse2k8]

As AliGage said (again)

Its a building reg on a wc. Not needed on taps but I always put them on. Makes life easier when you need to do anything

 

[AliGage]

Thanks, this seems pretty good stuff.



Could you explain a little more about working it up? Do you basically just mean rocking it back and forth?



Ok this seems to make sense. I'm guessing I'll need to get some sort of special sealant to fix it altogether with?

My main worry with this is that the water pipe comes up vertically from the floor and will need to be bent a little to reflect the new position of the cistern. I'm guessing this might be an issue as I've no experience (or tools) with copper pipes.

Hi Biffta,

I got your PM, is this the post you're refering to?

With regards to the pan connector and shifting it up a bit. Pull straight up and twist left to right, right to left.

Second question about the offset pan connector. No sealant required. There's a rubber o ring seal all round the inside of the P type pan connector, and a finned seal on the offset pan connector. These seals have to be good and positioned correctly. Don't be tempted to appy any sealant on this connection. Because if the seals on it aren't holding water then the Silicon or whatever you use will soon deteriorate after 6 litres of water have been sent down it 10-15 times a day over a few months.
Smear a bit of washing up liquid over each seal, push them together and it'll be perfect.

Last question the supply feed to the cistern? Purchase a flexible tap connector. 300mm long, 15mm compression with isolater one end and 1/2" tap connector the other. Try and find one with a rubber seal in the tap connector end and not one with a fibre washer (red or green, feels like cardboard).
You'll also need a 15mm pipe slice, a set of grips and a 10" adjustable. Then:
Turn your mains water off, run all cold taps, and flush the toilet.
Fitting the flexi tap connector should be self explainatory. If you have a plastic thread on the cistern DON'T over tighten and hold the internals still as you do. The flexi's with rubber seals can pretty much be hand tight. That's why i find them better than fibre washers. Make sure you hold the flexi up to mark where to cut your pipework, don't leave it too short!
Once all connected turn your water on and then your taps off. If you have any probems from here on in you have an isolator on the toilet.

Hope this helps.

 

[biffta]

Hey Ali, yeah that's very helpful thanks!

 

[AliGage]

No problem, glad i could help

 

[Dan]

Just bumping some of the older popular (sometimes not so popular) threads. Probably wont be current discussion these days but I just need to do it. So just ignore the thread if it's not current for you.