travertine on walls

[SJPurdy]

The English language isn't it wonderful.
To clarify my previous answer, by "buttering" i mean what other are calling "skimming". So comb adhesive on wall with notched trowel and apply to back of tile with flat trowel. Now i'll have to find time to read bits of the BS again to check what they mean by buttering!
I am not aware of bonding being approved as suitable for any type of tiles let alone heavy ones. (i have tiled over it many times in the past (normal ceramics) and used to use it for making good without any problems but I have since learned it is not an apropriate substrate until skimed over with finishing plaster!)
Corner joint should be flexible sealant not grout (all corner joints should to comply with BS).

 

[Time's Ran Out]

What can I add - 'Travertine is easy compared to ceramics and porcelain' - that just about sums up the state of our industry.
And if you think you are ready to become a Trav virgin after 1 year at college (almost as long as I did grouting before fixing any tiles) then heaven help our trade.
There is more to stone work than weight issues!

 

[AliGage]

The only thing i'll add is the only thing someone hasn't said. So it's proberbly justa preference thing for me.

I find Travertine quite fragile at tiles. I would not and don't use rapid set. I have found in the past the use of rapid can cause fractures in what essentially is already a "faulty" product. I tile the room somewhat differently when doing stone as well. rather than do a wall at a time after setting out i run around the room, few rows on each giving less weight on my props or battens whilst the adhesive sets overnight.

Addy is marginally cheaper this way as well. Seeming as white is soooo much more expensive. Every little helps!!

 

[SJPurdy]

The only thing i'll add is the only thing someone hasn't said. So it's proberbly justa preference thing for me.

I find Travertine quite fragile at tiles. I would not and don't use rapid set. I have found in the past the use of rapid can cause fractures in what essentially is already a "faulty" product. I tile the room somewhat differently when doing stone as well. rather than do a wall at a time after setting out i run around the room, few rows on each giving less weight on my props or battens whilst the adhesive sets overnight.

Addy is marginally cheaper this way as well. Seeming as white is soooo much more expensive. Every little helps!!

I agree with the tiling around the room a few rows on each wall at a time is a good practice to reduce pressure on battens and spacers while the adhesive sets.
I'm not sure as to why the rapid set would be making tiles fracture when slow set wouldn't. I'd almost always prefer to be using slow set but with natural stone i think most adhesive manufacturers will be recommending rapid set because (as I understand it) 1. it reduces staining (any salts are quickly locked into the setting adhesive and so can not then travel through the stone and 2. some thin natural stone tiles will bend if one side is wet (like wood) and so by using rapid set the tiles is fixed in position before the tile can warp due to the moisture on the adhesive side.

 

[cromboy]

I agree with the tiling around the room a few rows on each wall at a time is a good practice to reduce pressure on battens and spacers while the adhesive sets.
I'm not sure as to why the rapid set would be making tiles fracture when slow set wouldn't. I'd almost always prefer to be using slow set but with natural stone i think most adhesive manufacturers will be recommending rapid set because (as I understand it) 1. it reduces staining (any salts are quickly locked into the setting adhesive and so can not then travel through the stone and 2. some thin natural stone tiles will bend if one side is wet (like wood) and so by using rapid set the tiles is fixed in position before the tile can warp due to the moisture on the adhesive side.

Thanks for your wisdom, will def take couple of rows around the room and use rapid (as BAL technical advise its use).

 

[cromboy]

Dont know what sort of training you did but after one year of college, I realised it was not a high level of training. Flat ply stud walls and flat timber floors, half hearted teachers and NO mention of stone/trav as prob too expensive to let trainees use it. You try and get an apprenticeship nowadays, where you can get hands on training! A year grouting, you must be very good at grouting then.

 

[ifindoubtgrout]

no offence to anybody on here but worrying about salt in adhesive is taking the job too far,if you only tiled to b.s. youd never work because no job is perfect, good luck with job.

 

[AliGage]

Im going to use a taboo saying here, (never had a problem):S But i persoanlly have never experienced staining in any travertine work i have undertaken. I have used both rapid and slow set adhesive for the jobs. In cases where i use slowset it has been with 8mm low grade "resin" trav. I have had a case where i believe the fast set of adhesive has caused a poor quality pirece to fracture.
I don't get much call for good quality stone in what i'm asked to quote for so most is the cheap end stuff. I do what works for me.

 

[cromboy]

no offence to anybody on here but worrying about salt in adhesive is taking the job too far,if you only tiled to b.s. youd never work because no job is perfect, good luck with job.

Thanks for your advice, common sense and good wishes. The job is going well and client is very happy ( which is the important thing). Good luck to you!

 

[AliGage]

Post some pictures when you're all done. Hope it goes well, good luck