Underfloor heating Novice after a little assurance

[chris79327]

Hello all,

I am an industrial Electrician/Technician and it is my intension to lay an Electric Heating mat in my conservatory as the primary/only heating source and I was just wondering if the experianced fitters among you could just confirm that the method I intend to use is correct.

1, I am going to lay a layer of self levelling latex to guarantee that I am starting with a level surface.

2, I am then going to screw 50mm batons at 450mm centres and lay 50mm celotex between every baton covering the entire floor

3, I am then going to screw interlocking tongue and groove (18mm thick) chipboard on top of the batons covering the entire floor

4, I will then lay my 200 w/m2 Electric heating mat (200 w m undertile heating mat kit 12m 2400W) on the chipboard and pour another layer of self levelling latex to get rid of any air pockets and give me a good surface for laying my Tiles on.

Sound good? Ive basically gone over the top with the insulation but I have the height to use under my door sills through to the lounge and the garden so I thought I may as well use it up and insulate the death out of it.

 

[Time's Ran Out]

I wouldn't tile on chipboard and 200w/m mat is for stone floors not wood.
Most only recommend 100w over wood.
Best contact a forum sponsor - U heat for sound advice.

 

[Rookery]

I wouldnt tile onto chipboard either. Assuming the sub-floor is concrete or sand/cement screed basically I would:
Prime
Fix marmox boards with rapidset flex adhesive
Lay heating mat
Pour latex
Tile with rapidset flex adhesive

 

[Qwerty]

NO!!!!

If you want to go OTT with the insulation then use 50mm MARMOX insulation boards in place of your step 2 & 3. Fix with rapidset flex addy

 

[chris79327]

Ok,

Thank you for your replies, I had never heard of this Marmox insulation. I was basically laying the wood floor to give a solid base for the tiles to be laid on as I was nervous about laying them directly onto insulation as I was worried that the insulation would compress but after reading your comments and doing some more snooping this is exactly what im going to do.

So New plan....

1, I am going to lay a layer of self levelling latex to guarantee that I am starting with a level surface.

2, I am going to lay 30mm Marmox boards (they are not cheap!! ) covering the entire floor and fix to my concrete screed floor and seal all the joints.

3, Lay 200 w/m2 heating mat directly onto the Marmox boards.

4, Cover with another layer of self levelling Latex.

5, Tile floor.

Sound ok now guys?

 

[Uheat - Keith]

Timeless John, Rookery and Blocko, above are all spot on about wood base and heat output.
Can not install 200w/m2 mat onto a wood base.

Marmox at 50mm is good, but if you are starting from a concrete base you can use our Ekoboards as your insulation.
Same as Marmox boards but without the cememt skin top & bottom.

We do stock both.

We have a technical webpage for the Ekoboard Insulation Boards, ekoboard.co.uk for 6 pages of info.

Hope that is of extra help.

 

[Uheat - Keith]

Hello again Chris,

Your 2nd post must have been done same time as I sent the post above.

We stock the Ekoboards and the Marmox boards in all sizes (EKOboard to 60mm - Marmox to 50mm)
The Ekoboards at half the price of Marmox boards, as no cement skin top & bottom on Ekoboards.
As you are starting from concrete etc, then tiling etc, Ekoboards do the same job.

Hope you haop chance to see the Ekoboard web site for Technical information at ekoboard.co.uk

Warm regards, Keith.

 

[chris79327]

Thank you for all your help people,

I have now purchased my heating mat and have 14m2 of Ekoboard winging its way to me

 

[bugs183]

Have you got a monitor that senses any damage done during laying the mat or tiles, invaluable piece of kit.
Check my post today, 'Underfloor Heating Problem fixed', you can't be too careful with these mats!
Also cut the conduit into the board to take the thermostat, and if possible run the conduit all the way to the controller so you can replace the thermostat easily if it fails. A glue gun is also useful for sticking the cable down, especially at the bends, they tend to bend upwards here and can be a real whatsit to level!