M
Mr T
how do you find the surface? and whats the best way to make a wall/floor level again? can you simply scrape off old adhesive in most cases?
R
Rookery
Thats a bit like asking how long's a piece of string but commonly:
Floors - easy cos usually the previous ones not fixed well. SDS drill to get em + addy residues up.
Walls - usually knackered skim or board. Re-board or re-plaster as a rule.
Floors - easy cos usually the previous ones not fixed well. SDS drill to get em + addy residues up.
Walls - usually knackered skim or board. Re-board or re-plaster as a rule.
W
White Room
As above, some walls are put up so bad even seen Silicon used:yikes:
level floors with slc...
I've had a shower enclosure to tile. Ripping out revealed 3mm hardboard siliconed to battered plasterboard.
W
White Room
I'm amazed that even stayed up....
M
Mr T
would you say slc is easy to use? is it just a case of feathering in well?... and would a re-board also have to be plasterd?
C
charlie1
Depending what the old adhesive is, you can saturate with sponge then scrape off or you could grind off with cupped wheel or remove plaster the redo, same goes for plaster board.
G
Gazzer
It will depend on which brand you use. Some are not meant to feather in , 3mm maybe the minimum. Others may be 0mm to 4mm etc
Tilemaster levelflex is said to do 50mm to 0mm.
Tilemaster levelflex is said to do 50mm to 0mm.
W
White Room
Don't grind plasterboard with a cupped wheel:lol:
M
Mr T
lol cheers people.
Remove old adhesive with tile chisel and hammer action drill , if needed! Hoover floor , prime and slc!
M
Mr T
@kitty 55.... no mate im just starting out been doing it a couple of months voluntary but feel ready for my first small jobs and am just thinking of things I need to know thank you for your reply tho!
R
Rookery
Type of SLC will depend on what you're going over. I generally use Weber Floor Flex as a good allrounder. It'll go up to 50mm in one pour with a minimum of (I think) 3mm and its good for heated and timber floors. If your going over a timber floor, the minimum thickness is 10mm. There's plenty on the market, just go into your local tile specialist and read the bag to see what it'll do. Mix it up as per the instructions and work towards your exit. If you've a lot to do its worth getting a mate to mix while you pour. You'll need to 'help' it into the corners etc with a float or spiky roller.
Its better to tile direct to new plasterboard. It saves time and money on skimming and the weight limit is greater too. Make sure its well fixed.
Its better to tile direct to new plasterboard. It saves time and money on skimming and the weight limit is greater too. Make sure its well fixed.
M
Mr T
thank you rookery how bad would a floor need to be for slc to have to be used? or is it just a personnel judgement?
R
Rookery
No greater than + / - 3mm under a 2 mtr straight edge according to BS. If you've got the odd divot here n there but the rest of the floor is ok you could fill them with rapid set such as Ardex X7R, it goes off nice and quick. Basically the flatter the floor the easier it will be for you to tile. Dont confuse flat with level though.
It didn't. Was flapping around all over the place. I went in under instructions from a national, high street tile supplier contracted to ripout and re-fit tiles. How the customer managed to get that supplier to take the bill on the chin i don't know. Was the purchasers Son who did it orginally.
C
charlie1
Sorry misunderstand, I'm not advising to use a grinder on plaster board unless you have a very steady hand and don't mind dust. I've done it myself in past with success full results
There are similar tiling threads here
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