What next

[bevo09]

Hi to all.
I am a newbie to the forum and I hope this is in the right place!

Looking for help on a shower room, I keep getting conflicting advice.

The cubical has been studded and the shower tray is in place, the plumbing is all done (what a nightmare!).

The shower room will have a standard wall shower and a daisy shower head plus 4 body jets.

I am now at the stage of boarding the studded walls, I was going to use 12mm plaster board, any other suggestions?

The tiles will be ceramics 25cm X 40cm 8mm thick.

I have been told that a simple pva coat on the plaster boards is good enough with a water proof adhesive? Would this work?

I have also been told that the room will need tanking.

If it has to be tanked, which is best. The Bal system or the homelux system?

Or any other easy to apply suggestions?

Which adhesive would I need to give the best result?

For the ceiling I was going to use 12mm marine ply to take the wheight of the over head daisy shower and then clad over that with upvc clading, is this OK?

The floor is concrete, so there should be very little movement.

Any help would be realy helpful.

Thank you.

John

 

[DHTiling]

One question i have john..

Once you have boarded and tiled thge walls at either side ..will there be room to fix a shower door in place..?

As for the boarding and tanking , then plaster board will be ok and use a waterproof membrane over this....if the tiles were stone etc then a backer board would be the option...

Personally i prefer to use membranes as they re the tanking of the future and are fool proof really to apply.


here's a video of how to apply the durabse wp version.

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pigKorqimGk]YouTube - Durabase wp wet room tanking membrane dura-wp[/ame]

 

[DHTiling]

Also moved to tanking forum.

 

[bevo09]

Hi Dave, thanks for the quick reply.

Hmmm the door, a wee bit of a **** up there, with so much going on with what was supposed to be a simple project, I sort of forgot about the door.
The width between the wood frame is 770cm the tray is 760cm the door is an 760cm bifold (Banyo). The door will go down to 730cm at a squeeze.

The tiles and plaster baord will take up 4cm which does not allow for adhesive!

So to make the door fit I will have to one of the following:

a) fit the door to the wood frame and then plaster board over the fittting lip and tile on top.

or

b)fit the door to the plaster board and tile over

or

c)fit the door to the wood frame with mounting lip facing outwards and face over with trim.

or

d) forget the door and have a shower curtain!

Any thoughts?

I will go for the membrane as it seems to be easy (where have I heard that before!).

Is there any difference between the durabase and homeluk?

Which adhesive should I use?

Thanks for your time

John

 

[DHTiling]

Hi again john.

Homelux mat is quite thick compared to the durabase or even kerdi membranes.

I think it would be better to board and tank first then fit the door if it's that tight,,,then tile...

Then if the door system fails, you only have to remove a row of tiles and not the boarding as well...

As for adhesive...keraquick white...from mapei.. is my choice..

 

[bevo09]

Thank you very much for your help.

John

 

[Time's Ran Out]

Don't want to stick my nose in at all - but - some shower doors drain through the frame and are meant to be fixed to a impervious surface ie tile.
I realise it will be tanked behind but it worth checking the fixing instructions for the background substrate.

Timeless John.

 

[faithhealer]

Hello John, always like to see isolator valves on showers but how are you going to get to them after you board over? Is the water system a combi? because pushfits have a reduced dia. for gravity fed!
Please keep us informed of your progress

 

[bevo09]

Thanks for all the input...........keep them coming!

The door does not drain thru the frame.

The system is feed from a Potterton Gold HE Combie .

With so many valves and joints I have done a wet pressure test and all was good. Even the body jets put out a good force which I was supprised at.

The valve will have access from the rear, the frame around it is 30cm X 30cm and I have an access door which will fit that size frame. I will hide the access door with a mirror (wifes idea).

Not sure how to tile over the valve.

The Valves have a 18cm X 26cm chrome cover that sits over the vlaves with chrome locking rings that screw onto the vales with rubber seals to hold the cover in place.

The valve is a Triton Archetto.

Do I leave say a 17cm X 25cm hole around the valve body to leave access to the front and silcon the cover onto the tiles to seal it?

Or any other methods?

John

 

[smurf21]

You could board the shower cubicle area with 9mm No More Ply saving you 6mm on the distance for the enclosure treated with sbr and nmp joint tape onto yur shower tray using mega adhesive to seal the joints alliviates the need for a seperate tanking kit. the p/board will be fine with a tanking kit just thinking of saving a few mm if its important......

 

[bevo09]

Thank you, I will take a look at that option, it could be the answer to the door width problem.

John

 

[bevo09]

Ok took the door out the box last night, if anything it is too small !, I will need the plaster board, tanking and tiles to make the width up so it fits.
Should of been a 760 door looks more like a 740?

 

[faithhealer]

Ok took the door out the box last night, if anything it is too small !, I will need the plaster board, tanking and tiles to make the width up so it fits.
Should of been a 760 door looks more like a 740?

Every door I've fitted had some sort of adjustment on it?

 

[bevo09]

Yes it does have adjustment, but at the 760 it is right at its maximum, which means it will fit comfortably with my error on the studding sizes.

 

[Gazzer]

Always best to install door last IMO as cubicles can be a nighmare to tile when the door is fixed.
Deffo go for a membrane over a paint on system, if you can wall paper then you can do this.
Seat the frame on a bead of Silicon too.