What's the best way to tank a plaster wall

[RBussey]

Hi all!

i am building a wetroom en-suite and have been doing some research but still can't decide on what materials to buy or what would be best for me. The walls are brick with plaster and the floor has floor boards and joists. At the moment I have decided to get the Tuff2 tray as I have read good reviews about it working well with wooden floor joists. Does anyone disagree?

And with the floor boards as I am tiling should I replace them with ply wood? Or place hardie board over the top?

one last confusion I have is the tanking for the plaster walls? Can I also use the same tanking membrane for the floor?

i am very keen on DIY and feel comfortable to do the job, I'm just a bit unsure which materials to use.
any help would be grateful

Thanks :smilewinkgrin:

 

[RBussey]

Sorry meant to say hi to all the forum members and hope I can be of some help to someone else

cheers

 

[White Room]

Hi and welcome.....the tuff2 is a solid tray, what tiles will you be fixing to the walls.

 

[RBussey]

Hi whitebeam, we are using decorum timbau porcelain tiles 22" x 12 "
Thanks

 

[White Room]

You may find that if the tiles are 10mm thick with the adhesive, weights for the tanking and the tiles will be exceeding the BS of 20kg m2 for plaster.

 

[RBussey]

Thanks for the advice, what would be the best wall that could be fitted to brick for carrying that type of weight?

 

[White Room]

You could dot and dab plasterboard which takes 32kg in weight and tank it.....

 

[RBussey]

thanks, at the minute there is backing plaster on the brick walls, which has the water pipes an current mixer bedded in to it. I wish it was a studded wall as my options would be easier! :smilewinkgrin:
if I take all the backing plaster off there will be a big gap to fill for the walls to become even again and then the problem with the water pipes.
do you think I could build a thin studded wall, fix it to the brick wall, then either fit hardiebacker or plasterboard to that?
cheers for all your advice

 

[White Room]

That'll be no problem.....did'nt realise you had pipes running up the wall though.

 

[RBussey]

Neither did I until I starting digging the other night.
cheers for your help, I will build a small stud wall then fit 6mm hardiebacker which will hold the weight of the tiles and will not protrude too far out of the wall.

thanks again

 

[Plumbing Tiler]

Neither did I until I starting digging the other night.
cheers for your help, I will build a small stud wall then fit 6mm hardiebacker which will hold the weight of the tiles and will not protrude too far out of the wall.

thanks again

Hi, I know it's probably not what you want to hear, but with the size and weight of your tiles you would be better off using the 12mm Hardiebacker 500 boards for your wall, the 6mm is usually just used as an overlay onto existing floors.

 

[RBussey]

Cheers for the advice, I'd rather find out now rather than later!
this weekend I'm going to see if I can bed the water pipes into the solid wall then il be able to remove the backing plaster and dot and dab 12mm hardibacker
cheers guys for your advice

 

[White Room]

Dot and dabbing is not an approved fixing method......

 

[Plumbing Tiler]

Cheers for the advice, I'd rather find out now rather than later!
this weekend I'm going to see if I can bed the water pipes into the solid wall then il be able to remove the backing plaster and dot and dab 12mm hardibacker
cheers guys for your advice

Dot and dabbing is really only suitable if you're fixing plasterboard sheets, if you are going to use the 12mm Hardiebacker then it would be best to stick to building a stud wall as you first suggested, and screwing the Hardie onto that, have a look at the website it will explain in a bit more detail and hopefully help you out mate, its JamesHardie | HardieBacker® 12mm Cement Board for Walls, don't hesitate to ask on here again if you are unsure about anything, good luck

 

[widler]

I actually thought, although never done it, u can dot and dab cement boards onto walls with tile adhesive ?

 

[widler]

I actually thought, although never done it, u can dot and dab cement boards onto walls with tile adhesive ?

In tile adhesive i mean powder

 

[White Room]

[FONT=Gotham-Medium+HLMFIK][FONT=Gotham-Medium+HLMFIK][FONT=Gotham-Medium+HLMFIK]This from Hardies pdf taken from there website......

CAN I FIX CEMENT BACKERBOARD USING A DOT AND DAB TECHNIQUE?​

[/FONT][/FONT][/FONT][FONT=Gotham-Medium+HLMFIK][FONT=Gotham-Medium+HLMFIK][FONT=Gotham-Medium+HLMFIK]

No. HardieBacker​

[/FONT][/FONT][/FONT]

[FONT=Gotham-Black+ABPGSQ][FONT=Gotham-Black+ABPGSQ][FONT=Gotham-Black+ABPGSQ]® [/FONT][/FONT][/FONT][FONT=Gotham-Medium+HLMFIK][FONT=Gotham-Medium+HLMFIK][FONT=Gotham-Medium+HLMFIK]Cement Backerboard is not suited to thistype of fi xing application. Please view the masonry wallinstallation instructions.[/FONT][/FONT][/FONT]​

 

[RBussey]

Yes sorry it's not advised to dot and dab hardibacker but instead use tile adhesive and fixtures.

this is what hardibacker say about fixing to brick walls



8. 1. Installation on brick walls
8.1.1 Preparing the substrate
Ensure wall is sound, clean and ready to receive HardieBacker®
250 cement board. At minimum, the rear of HardieBacker® 250
cement board and the masonry wall must be wiped down to
remove all dust.
8.1.2. Fixing sheets with tile adhesive, step 1
Bond HardieBacker® 250 cement board to the masonry walling
using tile adhesive. Apply tile adhesive to masonry walls using a
6mm notched trowel. The tile adhesive must fully support HardieBacker
® 250 cement board and the HardieBacker® 250 cement
board is firmly pressed into the tile adhesive.
8.1.3 Fixing sheets with masonry anchors, step 2
Use 9 pcs (3 rows of 3) ø 6mm x 50 mm masonry anchors with
self embedding head. The masonry anchors are immediately
fixed through the board into the masonry walls holding the
sheeting in place. Do not overdrive head of anchor, it must be
flush with face of HardieBacker® 250 cement board.
Note: Do not dot and dab tile adhesive.

altho it says use the 6mm board I think il use the 12mm board just to be sure for strength, is this method of installing the boards sound right?

cheers for the advice

 

[widler]

[FONT=Gotham-Medium+HLMFIK][FONT=Gotham-Medium+HLMFIK][FONT=Gotham-Medium+HLMFIK]This from Hardies pdf taken from there website......

CAN I FIX CEMENT BACKERBOARD USING A DOT AND DAB TECHNIQUE?​

[/FONT][/FONT][/FONT][FONT=Gotham-Medium+HLMFIK][FONT=Gotham-Medium+HLMFIK][FONT=Gotham-Medium+HLMFIK]

No. HardieBacker​

[/FONT][/FONT][/FONT]

[FONT=Gotham-Black+ABPGSQ][FONT=Gotham-Black+ABPGSQ][FONT=Gotham-Black+ABPGSQ]® [/FONT][/FONT][/FONT][FONT=Gotham-Medium+HLMFIK][FONT=Gotham-Medium+HLMFIK][FONT=Gotham-Medium+HLMFIK]Cement Backerboard is not suited to thistype of fi xing application. Please view the masonry wallinstallation instructions.[/FONT][/FONT][/FONT]​

thats all well whitebeam ive read loads on here about 'its fine to fix cement boards to walls with cement adhesive but not dry wall adhesive'


in fact the more i think about it the more daft it seems that they say you can't dot and dab with tile addhesive:annoyed:
if your can dryline a wall(plasterboard) then tile it,why can't you dryline a wall(hardi) and tile it,seems odd really.

 

[White Room]

I just follow the manufacturers instructions but on saying that I did see couple of Hardie boards put up with dry wall adhesive once and were'nt coming off that easy.

 

[widler]

I just follow the manufacturers instructions but on saying that I did see couple of Hardie boards put up with dry wall adhesive once and were'nt coming off that easy.

i know mate,dry wall sticks like the proverbial to a blanket.
im gonna try it the next time im on a job,just stck a couple of bits to a wall with dry wall and addy,and try and rive em off

 

[RBussey]

I have a couple of bags of dry wall, would you guys recommend using that? If not what's a good tile adhesive? Our tiles are of a decent size as well 22" x 12" porcelain tiles, what would be a good adhesive for them?