Which is the better tiling method?

[missangorabunny]

Hello. I'm wanting to get my hallway (9 square meters) tiled with sheeted victorian floor tiles. Currently the hall is just bare floorboards (it's a victorian conversion flat). I've received estimates from 2 tilers, each of whom seems to suggest a quite different method. One proposes to lay 6mm Hardi backer and fix the tiles to this. The other seems to be suggesting something more complicated - "put board [doesn't specify what kind of board] on floor, put waterproof ditra mat down, add selflevel, then fix tiles". Funnily enough, this is the significantly cheaper quote. I have no expertise at all, so would be interested to know if one method would be considered preferable over the other?

 

[doug boardley]

I'd go the hardiebacker route.

 

[carlito]

Me too Doug!

 

[tommyzooom]

Me three

 

[The Legend; Phil Hobson RIP]

Hi and welcome, are these tilers experienced in Victorian/ Geometric work?

 

[doug boardley]

I'd be wanting to replace the floorboards, (assuming they're t & g planks) with 22mm wbp (plywood) with plenty of noggins in, then overboard with hardiebacker.

 

[Gazzer]

Ditra then Self level ????

 

[Sean Page]

Hi and welcome, are these tilers experienced in Victorian/ Geometric work?

This is a good first question to ask, other than that I'd go with the Hardi backer

 

[missangorabunny]

Thanks for all your responses. Consensus certainly appears to be hardie backer. Both tilers have experience of laying victorian designs, but the one suggesting hardie backer seems to deal exclusively with this type. Guess I'll just have to dig deeper into my pockets!

 

[hillhead]

Good advice above.
Phil Hobson is a true pro at victorian/geometric floors.
Don't be afraid to run a price past him for advice by PM too.
Good luck with your project miss....bunny

 

[Ajax123]

The fewer elements there are involved the fewer risks need to be managed. I would gothe hardibacker route but there is significant merit in lifting the floor Boards to check the subfloor for old age conditions, e.g. Worm, wet rot etc. This will also allow you to insulate between the joists and insert noggins to remove any bounce. You cant tile old victorian floors "on the cheap" if you want them to last.

No bounce and well fixed hardibacker removes the need for ditra. You only need levelling compound if the floor is not level.....the hardibacker will level things out as well.

 

[The Legend; Phil Hobson RIP]

Thank you Joe, from a top pro like you, that is praise indeed.

 

[kilty55]

phil hobson would also be my no 1 choice for a victorian job,good luck with it

 

[The Legend; Phil Hobson RIP]

Thank you Jamie, very kind, another top pro.

 

[Muse2k8]

After seeing Phil's work I wouldn't hesitate to use him for Victorian tiling... At any cost lol.