L
loaderman
Hi Guys, not posted for a while as when I've needed help i've found it using a search.
Anyhow, I have a job to quote for which is approx 20 sq m of 45cm x 45cm porcelain floor tiles in a village hall kitchen area. The main area of 16 sq m is wooden floor boards, reasonably solid (no noticable bounce when i jumped up and down on it) plus an adjoining store room with concrete floor.
The committee's usual lino flooring guy has left specs he wants following which I have already told them I feel is wrong - 9mm ply glued using contact adhesive (Evo stick type stuff) then 2 part flexy tile adhesive.
If I get the job, I plan to lift the exisiting lino and hardboard, repair/screw down any loose floor boards that I find, then use 6mm Hardie backer boards glued and screwed as per manufacturers instructions (rapid set flexi with 6mm trowel)
I was then planning to prime the boards using Bal APD primer and use a single part rapid setting flexi addy (probably Bal - I know it's dear but I'm used to it and I like the 25yr guarantee comfort) rather than a 2 part flexi addy (would 2 part flexi be overkill?). I intend to have a 5mm grout gap and use Bal grey Superflex grout, I will also have an expansion joint where the wooden and concrete floors meet (luckily at a doorway).
The kitchen floor adjoins a maple floor in the main hall. As the centre is mainly used by the elderly height increases at the join need to be kept to a minimum, hence the preference for backer boards rather than 18mm ply. I will be having made a custom hardwood edging strip, 75mm wide with a chamferred edge to provide a gradual slope up to the tiled area
I've not had a problem up to press using 6mm backerboards over wooden floors or using spf addy but this is quite a large span (approx 4m by 4 m for the main area). As I say, there is no discernable deflection in the floor.
Any advice as to my proposed method or other alternatives would be much appreciated.
P.S There is no way they will agree to the existing floor boards being lifted and replaced with 18mm ply.
Many thanks in advance
Stewart
Anyhow, I have a job to quote for which is approx 20 sq m of 45cm x 45cm porcelain floor tiles in a village hall kitchen area. The main area of 16 sq m is wooden floor boards, reasonably solid (no noticable bounce when i jumped up and down on it) plus an adjoining store room with concrete floor.
The committee's usual lino flooring guy has left specs he wants following which I have already told them I feel is wrong - 9mm ply glued using contact adhesive (Evo stick type stuff) then 2 part flexy tile adhesive.
If I get the job, I plan to lift the exisiting lino and hardboard, repair/screw down any loose floor boards that I find, then use 6mm Hardie backer boards glued and screwed as per manufacturers instructions (rapid set flexi with 6mm trowel)
I was then planning to prime the boards using Bal APD primer and use a single part rapid setting flexi addy (probably Bal - I know it's dear but I'm used to it and I like the 25yr guarantee comfort) rather than a 2 part flexi addy (would 2 part flexi be overkill?). I intend to have a 5mm grout gap and use Bal grey Superflex grout, I will also have an expansion joint where the wooden and concrete floors meet (luckily at a doorway).
The kitchen floor adjoins a maple floor in the main hall. As the centre is mainly used by the elderly height increases at the join need to be kept to a minimum, hence the preference for backer boards rather than 18mm ply. I will be having made a custom hardwood edging strip, 75mm wide with a chamferred edge to provide a gradual slope up to the tiled area
I've not had a problem up to press using 6mm backerboards over wooden floors or using spf addy but this is quite a large span (approx 4m by 4 m for the main area). As I say, there is no discernable deflection in the floor.
Any advice as to my proposed method or other alternatives would be much appreciated.
P.S There is no way they will agree to the existing floor boards being lifted and replaced with 18mm ply.
Many thanks in advance
Stewart
