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Discuss Dry cutter thread....for use with polished porcelain in the Tiling Tools area at TilersForums.com.

1

1animal1

Morning chaps!

I have been lurking on here for a while now, gathering bits of information and opinion on how best to complete my DIY jobs. I can't thank you chaps enough. My latest has caused me a bit of an issue though which is why I've joined up to ask what you guys think.

I am just in the process of rebuilding our en suite, after which I'll be tiling floor to ceiling with 10mm Porcelain, 60x60 on the floor, 60x30's on the walls (same tile). The last job (downstairs toilet) has prompted me to look at other options to my Plasplugs wet saw (don't laugh :) ), which has served me very well over the years. I can't help but think that it's slowing me down massively....

So looking into dry cutters that will cut polished Porcelain I have found that you get what you pay for! and i obviously want as much as possible for the least outlay (surprise :) ). Having looked at models and almost settling on the TS60, I have since read a few more articles on how rubbish these are for porcelain and how i would need a TX minimum for the 60x60 tiles, I'm also concerned that when i get to the ends and try cutting 30-40mm pieces off the 60x60's, i'll be left with a few dead tiles. So this has led me on to the very reasonably priced Sigma 3L3M which I've found for what seems like a bargain £224! sadly it won't do 600mm tiles..... I've read that the 3B4M is a good possibility, but this being a model of the 3B3M, am i best going for the older models?

My question is, would this be a good first tile splitter? Or should i start looking at lesser brands where i may get more for my money considering i won't be using it as a daily... I am looking at buying something half decent as soon I'll have a much larger bathroom and large kitchen to hit and I'm favouring the polished P for the floor in that (despite the ball ache of dewaxing & sealing).

Any help is much appreciated.

Tim
 
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1

1animal1

3 Years if this builds anything to go by! :eek: I've two bigger jobs ahead of this one so need to weigh up keeping hold of which ever model i get hold of. Cost of renting etc just isn't worth the hassle from what I've seen, it's not like they are £5 a day anymore :(

First dibs are yours once I'm done... :D

PS cheers for chucking another in the mix - Klick Klock? Looks to have a larger breaking strength over the Pull but not the Push @ £234. Push is coming at £239 and pull I have got down to £220. Push is looking most favorable, as have read a lot about it being easier on the wrist! o_O
 
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I

Italy

every 4-5 years I change my Sigma 600mm, the one I use every day.
last bought, I paid € 200 including VAT, € 165 net.
those used, I have always sold to 100 € on the internet, the ones I sell are still perfect, only signs of wear and just, there are no traces of adhesive.

I remember the first time I sold, we met by selling 600mm and at the end I sold all three sigma I had in the van. the 600mm, the 930mm and 370mm. I had to immediately buy a Sigma, otherwise I could not work.
 
L

LM

Defo looks the way to go from what I've read - do i need to start fannying about looking at different sized scoring wheels too?! for polished Porc....

Is trade discount much on these? If so it might be worth be bothering a mate who's got a few local trade accounts.
The wheel that comes with the machine will handle anything you throw at it so it will be absolutely fine, no need to think about different wheels.
Thats an excellent choice you've made, the max version will cut any tile that you are likely to be working with.
As already said second hand Sigma's are like hens teeth very rarely are they for sale.
A tip is never oil the rail on the Sigma only the cutting wheel and any bearing on the handle you go for, periodically take the handle of and run a pipe cleaner followed by a 'Big wipe' through it to remove any dust build up that will occur when dry addy dust etc hits any condensation that may be on the rail, this way your handle will always glide freely and perform to its best, good luck and welcome to the forum :)
 
B

Bill

The wheel that comes with the machine will handle anything you throw at it so it will be absolutely fine, no need to think about different wheels.
Thats an excellent choice you've made, the max version will cut any tile that you are likely to be working with.
As already said second hand Sigma's are like hens teeth very rarely are they for sale.
A tip is never oil the rail on the Sigma only the cutting wheel and any bearing on the handle you go for, periodically take the handle of and run a pipe cleaner followed by a 'Big wipe' through it to remove any dust build up that will occur when dry addy dust etc hits any condensation that may be on the rail, this way your handle will always glide freely and perform to its best, good luck and welcome to the forum :)
Was told by the Sigma rep to use Silicon spray to lubricate the rail............. who knows best?
 
L

LM

Was told by the Sigma rep to use Silicon spray to lubricate the rail............. who knows best?
Well Tom I can confidently speak from much experience from many accumulative decades of experience from a large team of tilers and conclude that if you lubricate the rail it becomes a dust magnet because of its surface area.
In general your tile cutter isn't very far from dust, either from mixing, grinding or brushing up etc. When that dust finds its way to a moist area it will stick like you know what and will soon clogg things up and to the inexperienced user it can appear that the machine isn't working properly and they mightn't know why and may assume their tool is goosed.
There's no question that a freshly lubbed machine will glide like a dream, but in reality that doesn't pan out so well in everyday use.
In my humble opinion the advice I've gave above is without question in practice the best way to maintain a Sigma!
 
1

1animal1

Thanks chaps - I have to say this has to be one of the friendliest forums I've been on in years! Such a nice change as a lot of trader sites you are met with 'get someone in that knows what they are doing' brigade which kind of goes against why you are researching. I'm kind of getting the idea how good these are now and thanks for the maintenance tips! (I can see why you wouldn't oil the rail - precision items, clean etc) :) I do look after my tools and the likelihood is that this won't be sold given it's usefulness. Guess this will be ok hung in a sealed unheated garage? They aren't prone to pitting are they?

I suppose where I was coming from on resale was that i can't get my head around why someone wouldn't pay £40 extra and get a new one, but if they really do last like people say... why bother... and like you say, if heavily used, the price reflects the 'still' usefulness in the cutter.

PS I was looking at Rubi, but apparently the TS isn't up to Porcelain (different views on this but manufacturer says ceramic only), and the TX costs quite a bit more than the Sigma I'm looking to buy - why would i pay extra for a TX?

PPS This might be leading to yet another new tool - Whilst so far successful with the likes of metro tiles, I don't think my Plasplugs wet cutter is going to be up to the job in cutting porcelain, more because of the depth of the tile (10mm) leading to chipping....

On a side note and totally unrelated - what do you chaps do with the electric floor mat heated cold/hot feed bulky connection that's advised to sit beneath the floor boards, encapsulated in adhesive? I've made a gap in the wall where i was going to fill with adhesive and tile over, but since it is prone to overheating and reducing the life of the mat, am i best cutting a hole in the floor and letting it 'dangle' beneath? Surely this would be a better way to prevent overheating?
 
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F

Flintstone

I came very close today to spraying wd40 on the rail but it was just a burr on the rail so a light rub with sand paper and it was great again. I cut a 20mm piece off a 900 porcelain plank today as well, brilliant!

With regards to the chunky wire you speak of, that needs to be covered fully in adhesive or leveller, then a tile. Usually make a recess in the insulating board to sink it in a bit to avoid excess height build up
 

Andy Allen

TF
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I'll hold my hands up and admit I spray wd40 on mine all the time.....and Lee is correct it dose clogg up and make it stiff to use....but I just spray more wd40 on it and it all loosens up ....been doing it for years and as yet it works fine.
Mind you my cutter's are over 20 years old.....testament to how well they last !!

20160826_083328.jpg
 
B

Bill

I'll hold my hands up and admit I spray wd40 on mine all the time.....and Lee is correct it dose clogg up and make it stiff to use....but I just spray more wd40 on it and it's all loosens up ....been doing it for years and as yet it works fine.
Mind you my cutter's are over 20 years old.....testament to how well they last !!

View attachment 87514
I was told that wd40 is incorrect to use as a lubricating spray as IT WILL attract dust and grime, so eventually clogging up but if you use a silicone spray, like this one, LINKY, it shouldn't clog up as much.
 

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