Caspari Antiqued Silver, how would you fix them?

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Discuss Caspari Antiqued Silver, how would you fix them? in the Specialist Tile -Stone, Porcelain, Glass area at TilersForums.com.

J

J Sid

Present job the customer has chosen Caspari Antiqued Silver Caspari™ Antiqued Silver Tile | Topps Tiles - http://www.toppstiles.co.uk/tprod46565/caspari-antiqued-silver-tile.html

nice looking tile, better then the website photo.
WP_20170323_14_30_57_Pro.jpg
my question, how would you fix them?

What it doesn't say on the website is there resin and mesh backed
WP_20170323_14_31_18_Pro.jpg

I plan to use a bottle and bag mix to back butter the stone and normal mix on the floor and walls.
Would anyone think I should abrade the resin ?

Any other fixing methods recommended?

Topps Tiles is a member of the TTA I believe. As I under it the TTA recommend NOT to fix these type of resin back stone, is that correct?

I may pop into Topps Tiles tomorrow on my way home and see how they recommend I fix them, yes I feel like having a argument in the shop ;)
 
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H

hmtiling

JulianSidney said:
No to Ditra under them. Got insulation boards/ufh/slc and am using Isomat waterproofing and uncoupling membrane.
so you thin single part mix S2 rather then a bottle bag mix Harry?

I thought a bottle bag mix had a better stick No?

It will be Friday so i do like to have a good argument ;)
Click to expand...
I'm not sure about polymer difference but if i had the choice id go single part.
Defo go in and give them a headache though:)
 
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H

hmtiling

JulianSidney said:
No to Ditra under them. Got insulation boards/ufh/slc and am using Isomat waterproofing and uncoupling membrane.
so you thin single part mix S2 rather then a bottle bag mix Harry?

I thought a bottle bag mix had a better stick No?

It will be Friday so i do like to have a good argument ;)
Click to expand...
Is that trimline or isomat isomat or is it the same?:%
 
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O

Old Mod

It's a shame you can't get the scraper I've got, or maybe you can?
You can shave with it that's sharp.

The new model (which has wider shoulders) isn't as good. Found I caught shoulders on stuff a lot.
Yes of course I got the new model haha
But I still use this one instead. Much better.
Didn't look too hard for it so it's only a ebay link in the states sorry haha but it still the one you want.

OLFA BSR-300 2" Heavy Duty Hand Scraper | eBay - https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/251909642860
 
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J

J Sid

Ardex were at CTD on Friday for a small trade day, rep and a tec man so had a chat about resin backed tiles.
Tec man said they have done some test and the best results were got with the addition of E90 to the adhesive mix.
So will have a go at removing the resin and mess tomorrow but will use an admix as well anyway.

Used the Isomat waterproofing and uncoupling membrane today to prep shower walls and floor in the room where these tiles are going and used the Isomat AK22 adhesive for the first time, and have to say both were a dream to use. Highly recommend them.

WP_20170326_11_06_53_Pro.jpg WP_20170326_12_06_54_Pro.jpg
 
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K

Kevbos

Omg it's quite funny watching the trade that so simple for 1000s of years become so complicated with only 20 years of technology in adhesives and grout .best way is sand cement .neat cement slurry to stick .there is no product that matches that strength and longevity .I do Victorian mosaics .I daily have to break up 100 year old paths .the tiles are still stuck to 6 inches of screed
 
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J

J Sid

Kevbos said:
Omg it's quite funny watching the trade that so simple for 1000s of years become so complicated with only 20 years of technology in adhesives and grout .best way is sand cement .neat cement slurry to stick .there is no product that matches that strength and longevity .I do Victorian mosaics .I daily have to break up 100 year old paths .the tiles are still stuck to 6 inches of screed
Click to expand...
did you read thread?
so you are recommend using a cement slurry to fix resin backed marble?
 
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N

NZ_Tiler

JulianSidney said:
I thought a bottle bag mix had a better stick No?
Click to expand...

Was interested in this. Answer is not necessarily.

Kerabond with ISO is 2.4N/mm2
Ultralite S2 quick is 2.5N/mm2 bond strength.

Personally would check with the adhesive supplier.

I would think resin glue for resin tile, bugger that

It will be slow but what about priming the tile backs with mape prim SP.
 
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K

Kevbos

JulianSidney said:
did you read thread?
so you are recommend using a cement slurry to fix resin backed marble?
Click to expand...
Did you read what I said .resin backed marble is a new thing .what's wrong with the marble fixed without resin back .that has been stuck for 100s of years .it's all the new ideas I'm talking about .that need another new product and way of fixing .Why complicate the trade further and further
 
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J

J Sid

Kevbos said:
Did you read what I said .resin backed marble is a new thing .what's wrong with the marble fixed without resin back .that has been stuck for 100s of years .it's all the new ideas I'm talking about .that need another new product and way of fixing .Why complicate the trade further and further
Click to expand...
Marble tiles are becoming thinker and of worse quality so they need the resin and mess backing to get though the transport and fixing without falling apart.
 
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N

NZ_Tiler

Kevbos said:
Omg it's quite funny watching the trade that so simple for 1000s of years become so complicated with only 20 years of technology in adhesives and grout .best way is sand cement .neat cement slurry to stick .there is no product that matches that strength and longevity .I do Victorian mosaics .I daily have to break up 100 year old paths .the tiles are still stuck to 6 inches of screed
Click to expand...
In vienna and I'm sure other places in Europe most of the old encaustic tiles are just floating now, bond completely gone. Also I've seen plenty of thickbed on walls where tiles just fall off leaving the motar on the walls.

The technology changed when tiles changed. A few decades ago ceramics were common now it's porcelain. Try laying a tile with a absorption of <0.5% in the old thick bed method. See how you get on.
 
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K

Kevbos

I know how I'd get on .porcelain was made to save money for manufacturers .and as you quoted all those old tiles now floating etc .have you retired a new build tiled in last 20 years .tiles fall off .grout badly dicoloured if not cracked or washed out .I fix Victorian mosaics for a living and to be competitive can only give 10 year guarantees as no adhesive can last much more than that outside .as opposed to doing it properly and it lasts 50 to 150 years .it's just getting silly with all the new products now .I know that times have changed and we got to move with them .but those times are changing because of greed and cost cutting.and not for ease of tiling and finished product .

In reply to how I'd fix them is just ring supplier and ask them. Get an email sent with what their specification is .and do that to the letter .then your covered

Just looked on web .you need to find out what type of resin is on back there is 3 types all need different types of adhesive Good luck.
 
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J

J Sid

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N

NZ_Tiler

Kevbos said:
I know how I'd get on .porcelain was made to save money for manufacturers .and as you quoted all those old tiles now floating etc .have you retired a new build tiled in last 20 years .tiles fall off .grout badly dicoloured if not cracked or washed out .I fix Victorian mosaics for a living and to be competitive can only give 10 year guarantees as no adhesive can last much more than that outside .as opposed to doing it properly and it lasts 50 to 150 years .it's just getting silly with all the new products now .I know that times have changed and we got to move with them .but those times are changing because of greed and cost cutting.and not for ease of tiling and finished product .
Click to expand...
Sorry getting off the OP.

Porcelain saves manufacturer money?

The need more energy to fire at a higher temperature. I doubt they're cheaper to produce and it's reflected at the tile shops.

They're produced because of their superior properties.
 
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Lou

Lou

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