Thin porcelain suppliers

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W

Waluigi

Bloody mitres. Two windows to go.

5212DF4C-9B11-4FBE-9418-7D6040E1EEFE.jpeg
 
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O

Old Mod

Are you using Levtec clips Andy?

Lee is correct, as a general rule I use Akemi Polysoft resin. It’s polyester based.

Different people have different ideas on what should be used, but I think it’s more dependant on the application at the time.

Polysoft white is a brilliant white, and is fine for your purposes. Not so sure the colour will be tho.
Source it from Apex Grange.
 
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O

Old Mod

You won’t know which resin is better for you till you actually try it, it’ll come down to which you believe has better workability.
No amount of spec reading will help with that.
Whether it be Akemi Polysoft or Tennax.

No polyester resin will actually bond porcelain in the true sense of the term.
It has to be a full blown epoxy resin, which is another beast altogether.
Polyester resins are ok for soft applications, which is what this is.
You don’t need a full blown epoxy resin for what you are doing.
Americans swear by silicone, based on the fact they feel that if there is movement, the silicone will cope.
Polyester resin can split in this scenario.

Like I said, different resins, different applications.
 
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O

Old Mod

Depends how good you at shaping epoxy grout I would suppose, that’s if you could build it up enough to round off.
It’s not something we use as a rule.

This is Akemi.
Was done very quickly as a sample for someone, so it’s not as refined as it should be, but it’ll give you an idea of what to achieve.
And yes, the tiles are chipped on the edges.
But at 6pm on a Sunday they were the best scraps I could find and I didn’t have the inclination to mitre new pieces.

BD2787E1-F466-4BEE-8424-9B9111A3207A.jpeg
 
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L

LM

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W

Waluigi

I’m the complete opposite of an expert and have never done anything like it before.

I just taped up either side of the joint with masking tape, about 2mm away from the joint. Used a small spatula to fill the joint proud then run the spatula against the tile on both sides to create a right angle of resin. Then once the resin had started to go off a little bit, I removed the masking tape and run a blade against the tile on both sides to removed a tiny amount of excess. Then once the resin had set I used a diamond polishing pad (60) to knock the corner point flat and round off, then finished off with a 120 and 200 grit pad. These tiles are Matt so I will polish a little bit tomorrow.

I went with about 2% of hardener to fill which was about right for a 2.4m run of mitre to fill and I didn’t want to weaken to the mix by adding too much Hardener as per Akemi’s instructions. I just hope this white doesn’t yellow too much......or shrink!!
 
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W

Waluigi

Has anyone done this with thin porcelain?

Customer wants a light grey porcel-thin tile on the walls but on the top of the boxing containing the WC wall frame and also on the window sill, wants a much darker grey top. So the mitre work will go from light Grey to dark grey.

I don’t see why this wouldn’t work. I’m just getting my head around the resin work and wondering if I’d need to change the resin to a darker grey to match the darker tile, just on that particular joint.

Just pricing up at the moment but it got me thinking. It might look quite good.
 
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Cranbrook

Cranbrook

TF
Esteemed
Arms
265
598
Pontypridd, South Wales
Waluigi said:
Has anyone done this with thin porcelain?

Customer wants a light grey porcel-thin tile on the walls but on the top of the boxing containing the WC wall frame and also on the window sill, wants a much darker grey top. So the mitre work will go from light Grey to dark grey.

I don’t see why this wouldn’t work. I’m just getting my head around the resin work and wondering if I’d need to change the resin to a darker grey to match the darker tile, just on that particular joint.

Just pricing up at the moment but it got me thinking. It might look quite good.
Click to expand...

Im also contemplating doing a mitre on some toilet frame boxing, albeit with the same tiles... just checking (without wanting to read back too far), is the resin used instead of grout due to strength?
 
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H

henrik

TF
3
83
Norway
3_fall said:
You won’t know which resin is better for you till you actually try it, it’ll come down to which you believe has better workability.
No amount of spec reading will help with that.
Whether it be Akemi Polysoft or Tennax.

No polyester resin will actually bond porcelain in the true sense of the term.
It has to be a full blown epoxy resin, which is another beast altogether.
Polyester resins are ok for soft applications, which is what this is.
You don’t need a full blown epoxy resin for what you are doing.
Americans swear by silicone, based on the fact they feel that if there is movement, the silicone will cope.
Polyester resin can split in this scenario.

Like I said, different resins, different applications.
Click to expand...
hello new at the forum, tiler from Norway.. ;) seems like you know your way around miters and I'm trying to wrap my head round which product to youse to glue porcelain miters together for a seamless corner.. The Akemi colour bond looks like the easiest way but is that the best way..?? I have never heard about or seen any miter corner like this in Norway so it's difficult to get any info about this in Norway.. I have been a tiler for almost 20 years and have over 1000 bathrooms under my belt so know how to hold a grinder.. ;)
 
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